1994 atx engine cranks will not start.

[smokekicsazz]

Ok I have a 1994 ATX ....I drove my car to work last night It started fine got to work shut it off, worked my shift, went to start car to go home and what do you know...it cranks but will not start. I don't hear the whining noise you get when you turn the key on, and I pushed the shrader valve in on the fuel rail and had no fuel spray out. I checked the rear inertia fuel cut out switch it is okay, I also made sure the toggle switch below dash by the fuse panel was not moved accidentally. I checked the DIS and made sure it was plugged in. I dont have a lot of money and the last thing I want to do is buy a fuel pump and it still not work. Does anyone have any suggestions that may work? I was maybe thinking the inertia switch was bad and possibly hard wiring it (bypass switch) and see if it starts ? Please help...this is my only car and it is a daily driver...Thanks..Tom

 

[93rev2sev]

do a search on jumpering the fuel pump. You can apply current directly to the pump to see if it works. If it works...you might need an Intermittant Relay Control Module. (IRCM)

You can also try whacking on the IRCM with a pop can.

 

[smokekicsazz]

do a search on jumpering the fuel pump. You can apply current directly to the pump to see if it works. If it works...you might need an Intermittant Relay Control Module. (IRCM)

You can also try whacking on the IRCM with a pop can.

where is the ircm located? thanks for quick response.

 

[bertha66]

The IRCM is located on the radiator core support, under the fan guard, box @3" square with a lot of wiring pluged into it.
When mine failed, I ran a wire from the fuse box, keyed port, to the inertia and ran the pump.

 

[smokekicsazz]

The IRCM is located on the radiator core support, under the fan guard, box @3" square with a lot of wiring pluged into it.
When mine failed, I ran a wire from the fuse box, keyed port, to the inertia and ran the pump.

okay....I will try that tonight when I go to work on my lunch break. I had to leave the car at work.....That explains why when I wiggled the main harness I heard relays clicking off and on but i didn't hear that "whineing" actuator noise......so basically you bypassed the wiring from the IRCM, ran a wire from the fuse box to the inertia switch positive feed?

 

[SHO SPD]

I had the same thing happen before. Turned out to be a fuse in the engine fusebox (drivers side by firewall) Cant remember what fuse number but it was a small 10 amp fuse. It was blowing because the coolant level sensor was shorting it out. This has happened to others as well.

 

[smokekicsazz]

I had the same thing happen before. Turned out to be a fuse in the engine fusebox (drivers side by firewall) Cant remember what fuse number but it was a small 10 amp fuse. It was blowing because the coolant level sensor was shorting it out. This has happened to others as well.

Thanks for reply..I checked that fuse already and it is good, as a matter of fact I checked every fuse in the car and they are all good...power on both sides.

 

[bertha66]

okay....I will try that tonight when I go to work on my lunch break. I had to leave the car at work.....That explains why when I wiggled the main harness I heard relays clicking off and on but i didn't hear that "whineing" actuator noise......so basically you bypassed the wiring from the IRCM, ran a wire from the fuse box to the inertia switch positive feed?

Yes, I did bypass the fuel pump relay in the IRCM, it is still working that way today, it has been wired that way now for about 5 years.