1992 ford taurus sho will not start

[Bryan]

I don't see a definite answer on here but maybe some helpful tips anyway.

I haven't had the whole thing out of one in 20 yrs. I know the general steps but exactly that 3rd gasket/seal not sure.

Looks correct. There is a seal at every junction I assume

Even in that video there is only two o-rings. Where does the third go? Does anyone even know? It just seems like 2 o-rings is enough. I mean even when I pulled my old water pump out there was only two o-rings. One on the crossover tube and one on the pump that goes against the block itself. Maybe older versions where different?

 

[Bryan]

Even in that video there is only two o-rings. Where does the third go? Does anyone even know? It just seems like 2 o-rings is enough.

So checking out the water pump sold on RockAuto even shows only two o-rings. So I am going with that.

 

[zoomlater]

So checking out the water pump sold on RockAuto even shows only two o-rings. So I am going with that.

go to the bottom of this link and there is a SHO Engine Book, there are some exploded views that may help

SHO Share

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[luigisho]

What does the third look like? Does it match up somewhere? We will find out either way..
Every mating surface gets a seal or gasket. It's been too long for me to remember exactly how many having done it so long ago.

Sent you a SHO manual link in messages also

 

[Bryan]

Okay so I now see where the other o-ring goes. Not on the water pump, but on the other side of the crossover tube where it connects to the thermostat housing. The side I am not messing with. Which looks like you need to remove the intake to get to it. Which I am defiantly not doing.

 

[Bryan]

SO I am Sol on the crank pulley. I can't get the broken bolt out. I am afraid that if I try to drill it and use and extractor all I am going to do is break off the bit. What now?

 

[Bryan]

Okay so I got to thinking what about just drilling out the bolt and tapping in new threads. I am wondering how much this is going to throw off the dampener. Thoughts? I am going to go and get a set of extractors and try to get it out.

 

[luigisho]

I think extractors are the best option. I've done hardened suspension bolts and soft aluminum bolts in the heads. It should come out.

Whatever time you plan on 1st time attempts ..always triple it. As frustrating as it is, it's not uncommon for these things to happen.

 

[Bryan]

I think extractors are the best option. I've done hardened suspension bolts and soft aluminum bolts in the heads. It should come out.

Whatever time you plan on 1st time attempts ..always triple it. As frustrating as it is, it's not uncommon for these things to happen.

Wohoo! Crisis averted! Thanks for helping out! Much appreciated!

 

[Bryan]

Okay so got the new seals in and water pump. Working outside in 90f weather is a toll! You go into fish mode and water is your best friend! Anyway taking a break.

 

[Bryan]

Are the cam sprockets torqued on? The sho Phoenix write up doesn’t specify if they need to be torqued. Are they just snugged and hand tightened?

 

[luigisho]

You check the manual? alot of procedure write ups include torque specs in the factory repair manual.

Use a little heat on the crank pulley for reinstall. That will help it slide on easier and prevent trying to smash it back. Keep the crankshaft key (little part that sticks out) and the pulley keyway (slot) intact.

 

[Bryan]

Can't get the belt on. Bent the small tab on the tensioner spring. Not sure what I am going to do here. I mean I am thinking of putting the belt in my over to heat it up just to get it to stretch a bit to get it on the right mark on the bottom sprocket. Other wise I am at a loss on this thing.

 

[luigisho]

So you can't get the tensioner to swing inward for more slack? It's been a long time but I think there is a hex or allen deal on the tensioner to move it and allow room for install. If it was my car and the tensioner was F'd I'd drop Dan Barbush a line and see about a used one. That is if I had other daily driver options to get to work.

 

[Bryan]

Got the belt on finally. Tensioner spring wasn’t that bad actually. So I guess the issue was the crank itself was not lined up right on the marks



Tired, bruised and need a drink. Until tomorrow.

 

[luigisho]

Is my angle wrong or is the 1st cam off by a tooth? Not sure

Well now you can give tips and tricks to the next person!

 

[Bryan]

Is my angle wrong or is the 1st cam off by a tooth? Not sure

Well now you can give tips and tricks to the next person!

Its just the angle. The dot is lined up with the line. Also once tension is on the belt it lines up fine. I believe that side is the one where the valves are in the middle of the compression correct?

 

[Bryan]

So I had the timing belt on the marks, but now I have to turn the engine to get the crank sensor in place behind the metal vanes on the crank sprocket. DO I have to again turn the engine again afterwards to realign the belt before I close everything up and start the car or am I okay to start?

 

[luigisho]

I think you should be good to go. There are people who have changed the crank sensor without touching the timing belt --and that is never lined up on the marks during that job.

AS long as the engine is in correct timing position secured by the belt that should be all that you need.

 

[Bryan]

Okay so car is all back together and running good! Took her out on the road and so far no leaks or problems! Had a little antifreeze leak, but it was the radiator cap not on correctly. Thanks to everyone that helped out! SHO back on the road!