1926 Ford FrankeSHO

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Iron Bender

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Been a while since last on this site. Finished the car last year but only put 500 miles on it mostly due to bad weather here. Car has been out and won several awards but mostly just impresses people once the hood opens.
Of the 500 miles logged to date, all have been perfect. However last week it started to require a longer crank time or multiple cranks to fire. Now it fires, runs up to 1200 then drops to zero. I had a friend attach his reader that last time it was running to learn all systems were working within spec with the exception of the IAC valve. It was ‘working too hard’ (cycling too quick). Disconnected the valve to see if I could run a block off plate but the car would not start. Reconnected and it ran. Drove it to a show and back. Has not run since. Starts but will not stay running. Checked 40 psi at the fuel filter. Fuel at the rail but do not have the equipment to check the pressure there. Believe the coil and plugs are working as it will light up but not stay running. So I am out of ideas and dead in the water. Can’t find anyone around town who knows anything more and not about to take it to shop. Hence my post here. Any ideas? When I first built the car, OffRoadSHO was a great help but appears to no longer be active and his personal email bounced back. Anyone know if Tom is OK?

Thanks in advance.
Jim, Iron Bender
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luigisho

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Are running an oem wiring wiring harness and PCM/computer?
Have you replaced the IAC unit?

I haven't seen Tom around much recently. You can go to your inbox on this board, click on 'start a conversation' and use his forum name. That will send him a private message through the forum and you might be able to reach him that way.
 
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Iron Bender

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Are running an oem wiring wiring harness and PCM/computer?
Have you replaced the IAC unit?
Yes running the factory computer and wiring harness stripped of all the excess following Off Road Sho instructions. I have not yet replaced the IAC but have a new one. Since it was running with the original IAC I wanted to get back to that baseline before installing the new part. Plus, with some of the modifications I made to get the motor to fit, I have to remove the intake to install the new IAC.
Thanks for you questions.
Jim
 

Iron Bender

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I was just on the phone with a friend who suggested I clear the stored memory in the computer by disconnecting the battery then touching the positive and negative cables together. This is supposed to drain the capacitors in the computer. Does this sound reasonable?
 

luigisho

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It is a way to drain memory and start from scratch but I am not sure that is causing the car to not run. Do you still have the data plug so you can pull engine fault codes from the computer just like the regular Taurus setup? I bet getting to anything under the hood is a bunch of trouble
 

zoomlater

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Does fuel shoot out if you press the Schrader valve or just trickle out (after the fuel pump runs, but not starting the engine)
Are you near an auto store that rents fuel pressure testers, it helps to know what pressure is at the rail
Do you recall what codes showed up when your friend checked it. Engine off as well as engine on
 

Iron Bender

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Thanks for the note on Tom. I will give it a try. I mounted the electronics in the kick panel for access. We do not get codes but all the sensor readings are on spec with the exception of the IAC. I am borrowing a fuel pressure tester this evening to check the rail pressure. I did check the pressure exiting the fuel filter at 40 pounds. all plumbing is new and I cleaned the rails out when the engine was on the stand so not much reason to think there is a blockage. i am not sure how the fuel pressure regulator works and /or if it could be causing a problem. At the Schrader valve i had one occurance yesterday where there was no pressure following which I went back to the fuel filter. Later after running the pump three times before starting, I pressed the Schrader and it has pressure. Unknown exactly how much but enough to atomize.
 

luigisho

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The schrader valve is a good way to measure fuel pressure at the rails. they can get clogged up but I sounds like you've had it out and cleaned up. So given sensor failure can do this, it is important to verify good supply of air/fuel/ spark.
 

rubydist

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based on your description, I concur with the suggestion to replace the iac first. I have had numerous of those go bad (get sticky, not open or not close) including symptoms like you describe.

Note that I have also had new ones bad out of the box (sticky), so given the difficulty of installing the iac in your custom setup, you might want to find a way to test the new one before going through all that work to install it on your car.
 

Iron Bender

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Update. Thanks everyone for your comments and contributions. With your help and an hour of Off Road Sho's time we found a resolution to the starting problem. As Off Road said "it is going to be something simple' and it was. We just looking in the wrong spot. It was not fuel, air, sensors, relays or computer. It was a malfunctioning ignition switch that when returning from the start position lost contact and shut the computer down. Drove to the Breakfast Club this morning and it never ran better. Even the IAC/idle was on spec. Thanks again to everyone who helped or even gave the issue some thought. Jim Bender aka Iron Bender
 

Iron Bender

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Second update: with the new ignition switch the voltage now reads 14.5 - 15.5 causing all the sensors to respond properly and the engine runs perfectly. Starts, idles, runs like ****. What more could one ask of a 92 year old car. Thanks again, Jim
 

Iron Bender

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thanks but a little late to plan a trip with only two days remaining and I live in Detroit. Are there other conventions during the year or just the one? Maybe next year.
 

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