SHO Source Y-Pipes and Headers Group Buy

[CWhalenSHO]

Anyone have pics of the Final Product that they could post?......Mine isn't supposed to get here until Monday and I'm a little impatient.

Thanks

 

[SeanMc]

Come on *** TEE EX people!

 

[38SHO]

Anyone have pics of the Final Product that they could post?......Mine isn't supposed to get here until Monday and I'm a little impatient.

Thanks

**** I want to see one installed... mines supposed to be here tuesday, that means wednesday morning, the neighoors are going to be waking up to a new tune .... rasp

:wave:

 

[Rockledge]

Looks like mine will be arriving sometime next week. :woo-hoo:

Now that it's on the way, I was wondering if there are any tips for installation? I've had the stock Y-pipe off several times and the hardware (bolts, studs etc.) I replaced with new a year or so ago. Removal should be a breeze. But is there anything I should keep in mind with respect to a smoother install and getting the best fit?

 

[CWhalenSHO]

Got mine yesterday day! Woot Woot!!!

 

[shopartsnw]

I recommend keeping everything loose and installing the clamps last. Once everything is loosely in place, I can easily adjust the fit, rotate the cats, move the down pipes so they are better centered on the manifolds, adjust clearance to the oil pan, check ground clearance, etc. When I am satisfied with the fit, then I start by evenly tightening the connection at the manifolds (careful not to shift the y-pipe). Next, I tighten the conection at the resonator. Last, I make sure everything is still where I wanted it, and I tighten the clamps to hold the y-pipe components. At that point, I plug in the O2 sensors and start the car to see if I have any leaks. If there are leaks, you go back and fix them. If there are no leaks, I either button up the car and enjoy, or remove the y-pipe and weld the joints to make solid y-pipe. To weld or not to weld is a personal choice, and I have cars both ways.

Hope that helps

Mike

 

[LOUDSHO92]

The last of the y-pipes has shipped for the group buy orders.

We do have a few y-pipes left though.

 

[38SHO]

 

[38SHO]

3 things of interest to me:

1-collector really doesn't look all that bad.......
2-o2 bungs are almost flush and don't stick in the tube a lot
3-slip on pipes fit a lot better this time, maybe too loosely tho... I'd say defintely get your pipes welded as they feel a little sloppy on mine........ but this is better then having to expand them and them not fitting at all w/o modification

nice looking product and I defintely like this one better then the last copies of the SHO Shop equal length y pipes made.........

thanks for giving to the SHO community SHOSource

 

[38SHO]

so am I the first one to install it?

these pipes fit mucho better then the last set made.... and the pipes seem to go above the oil drain bolt instead of butting against it..... so no more issues there...... it also has better clearance along the front subframe for the front downpipe........

it fitted up nicely and had it installed in a matter of minutes.......

I put the downpipes on first that connect to the manifolds, left the nuts just barely grabbing some threads so they would hang there

then I put on the rear section that connects to the catback... I didn't put the exhaust donut on it yet at this stage so I didn't gouge it up, put the bolts through it so that it holds the merge pipe in place

then I manuevered the pipes so I could fit the straight pipes, or the cats for you cat people.... it does take a little effort to do this.... hardly impossible... if it won't go try bring them in at a different angle or put the other pipe on first then that one....

at this point you want to adjust your clearances.... things to take note are... front subframe clearance, ground clearance, and oil pan clearance.......

I then carefully tightend the manifold nuts up so that I kept the angles I wanted with those pipes while sealing good on the manifold....... then I put clamps on it and tightened them down.......

then I unhooked the merge/catback connection, pushed the borla up high with my head and slid the exhaust donut onto the pipe and re hooked it up...... made sure everything was tight and was good to go

the passenger side nut on the front manifold was hard to get to on mine...... I recromend tightening the driver side nut first while holding the pipe in place, then tighten the pax side nut with your hands.... then try to use something to make it slightly more tight

if all your bolts are stock, and you got the same clamps as me, you will need the following tools:

13mm or 14mm for the clamps, sorry I kind of forgot which
18mm for the catback bolts by the donut gasket
15mm for the manifold nuts
7/8 wrench or o2 sensor socket for the Oxygen sensors....

P/B blaster is nice, also so is anti sieze on the oxygen sensor threads and the manifold studs...... don't be sloppy on the O2 sensors and get it all over the snouts, but make sure the threads are covered.... you'll be thankful later on down the road

I'll take some pictures of it installed tomorrow, I didn't have my camera today

 

[syP]

got mine... car is still in many pieces with no motor.. man i reallly wanna install these

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Any other interest in headers or ATX y-pipe.

If everyone for the ATX y-pipe who was interested stepped up we could have done this.

 

[Rockledge]

the passenger side nut on the front manifold was hard to get to on mine...... I recromend tightening the driver side nut first while holding the pipe in place, then tighten the pax side nut with your hands.... then try to use something to make it slightly more tight

I installed mine today and I ran into the same thing. It was difficult getting a socket or wrench on the nut because of the "lip" that's on the ******.

I think the reason for this might be because of the the way the flanges are installed on the new pipe verses the old-style pipe. If you look at the first picture you posted, you can see that the flanges are positioned one way (lip on flanges facing inward, toward manifold):

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/sho_devil/y-pipe/SHO-1030.jpg

...while on the new pipe they are installed the other way (lip facing outward, where nuts are):

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x79/yamaha33410/IMG_0616.jpg

Maybe this was done by design...?

Other than that, installation went well. The pipe and cats look to be of good quality and value.

I didn't have a chance to give it a serious test run, so tommorow when I take the SHO out for a good rip, I'll know more about performance. :corn:

 

[jonmon6691]

Are there any extra's left? I am very interested in a cated y-pipe.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Yes there are.

 

[Team Dave]

Thanks for the Y pipe guys! Everything looks great. I'm not sure when it's going on the car.. wasn't really planning on a Y pipe until I redid the motor. Good to have all the parts stock piled though. My "to do" mod list on the SHO keeps growing and growing!

And what mufflers and resonator is everyone planning on running with their new Y pipe? I have a Bassani race muffler for my resonator (14" steel mesh) with Borla XR1's. Should sound pretty good, but we'll see.

 

[38SHO]

i have a borla catback with a catless y and its kinda raspy........ everytime I shift I get a little rasp too when the rpm's are above 3k or so

 

[jonmon6691]

Ok, I put in the order

:woo-hoo:

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Got it thanks!

 

[38SHO]

hey matt heres some more pics if u want to use them