Started right away... quit... won't restart now

[westpeterson]

This morning, as usual, my car started immediately. I killed the engine letting my clutch out too quickly. As I tried to restart it, the starter sounded different, with a much higher sounding whine. I know it was rotating the engine, but now it won't start?

What are some things I should be checking?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[Bizzy]

You might take the starter out and have it tested.

Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key forward? It's possible if the car was jarred hard enough that you tripped the emergency cutoff in the trunk. Check the button on in the trunk to see if it was popped. It's on the driver's side, you can see it through a round hole cut in the lining.

Just a couple of guesses.

 

[westpeterson]

I'll check the "trunk", but I may have to search a while. As you can see, my trunk has been highly modified.

 

[hawkeye18]

I'll check the "trunk", but I may have to search a while. As you can see, my trunk has been highly modified.

Uh... no, we can't see.

You're looking for the inertia cutoff switch. It is (used to be) located on the driver side of the trunk inside of the carpeting.

 

[Slo-Sho]

Based on the info in the 1st post...A couple of things I would check, visually check if the serp belt turns when you hit the starter this will verify that the starter is working properly as sometimes the 'Bendix' will no longer engage the starter gear to the ring gear. If this is the case you may be able to use a hammer to strike the starter while someone hits the key. OR you broke the timing belt.

 

[westpeterson]

Uh... no, we can't see.

Oh... Is my avatar not showing up???
This is what my "trunk" looks like.

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

SHO wagon FTMFW

Is the tach responding when you crank? Have you checked your codes yet?

 

[Bizzy]

What's the red thing that's circled in the pic below? The button on the inertia switch itself is red and this caught my eye.

 

[smokin joe]

What's the red thing that's circled in the pic below? The button on the inertia switch itself is red and this caught my eye.

I would guess that its something to do with the stereo system thats under there.

Not so sure where the inertia switch is on a wagon but it should be behind those plastic covers somewhere, turn key on and listen for the pump priming. But honestly I dont think stalling it would jar the car enough to trigger it but I have had mine randomly trigger on my old GL, I wanna say its starter related. But if its turning the engine over, and if you can hear the fuel pump prime and you have spark, then it might be the timming belt. Take your oil cap off look in and you can see the front cam, have someone crank the car over and if its not spinning its the timming belt. That saves you the trouble of taking the covers off to check the timming belt

 

[westpeterson]

I located the emergency fuel button. It's behind the panel where the rear windshield washer bottle is on the passenger side. That wasn't popped. Without any local help, that's all I can do for now. Thanks, all, for your ideas. I'll see what I can find tonight.

 

[Devin]

Right after I built my car I had the same problem, but it was due to a weak alternator. No idea why since it would startup later, but I'd **** it by shifting wrong and then I had to push start it, which would work fine.

Of course the battery would eventually die, but I've killed it several times between then and now with a working alt with no similar issues.

 

[westpeterson]

I finally found an extra set of eyes. The engine turns. Looking through the oil filler, I see the cam turning.
Is there a way to check the codes without taking the car to a shop (or anywhere else, for that matter).

 

[hawkeye18]

nice SHOwagon! I had no idea...

 

[SHOGUN88]

Heres how to check your codes: http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm

 

[westpeterson]

Tonight I'll try getting codes, but I want to ask this as well...

While I saw the front cam turning, I was wondering... Does the engine have one continuous timing belt? If it has two, one for each bank of
cylinders, maybe one is broken. ???

 

[hawkeye18]

no, it just has one belt. One belt for both intake cams, and the exhaust cams are chain driven off the other end of the intake cams. You will know beyond a shadow of a doubt if one of those chains broke. I have never heard of a chain breaking; they are monstrously overbuilt for their purpose.

Definitely get your codes; further troubleshooting is nigh on impossible without them.

 

[westpeterson]

I believe the codes are:
116 114 157 211 542

 

[hawkeye18]

well let's break out the handy dandy code translator and see here...

116: ECT sensor is out of Self-Test.
114: ACT sensor is out of Self-Test.
157: MAF sensor circuit open.
211: PIP circuit failure.
542: Fuel pump circuit open, EEC processor to motor ground.

You know, these codes remind me of another guy that's having almost the same issue. Damned if we can figure it out on his car either. Best bet is a messed up wiring harness. I wanna say the guy's handle is "lithy", search for all threads started by him and you'll see where I posted the relevant diagrams. Good luck...

 

[westpeterson]

Thanks, Hawkeye, for your help on this.:thankyou:
I've read all (or most) of the previous threads on starting problems, but none seem to be the same.
There was a lot of mention of replacing the cam sensor, but that was if the tach was not working while trying to start. My tach is working, so does that rule out a cam sensor?
The sound that my car makes when I try starting it is akin to the old Chryslers (1960s-70s). A much higher gear noise. The cam is turning, the tach works, there is no lack of battery power.
I'm wondering if the ignition module could be the culprit???

 

[Slo-Sho]

That 211 is an instant CPS failure to me...