93rev2sev
SHO Member
Then it's not timed properly or there is no compression or no vacuum or a combination.
No start. Has fuel and spark, cranks.
- Thread starter luckyGAT
- Start date
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Then it's not timed properly or there is no compression or no vacuum or a combination.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Don't assume it's the fuel pump without verifying that it's getting voltage. You can try to probe the pump, but you might as well cut the hole.
A better idea: Spend less than 5 minutes checking the wiring harness. The wire for the fuel pump runs along the drivers rocker panel. And the connecter that's by the trunk release IS PRONE TO CORROSION. It's the heavier black wire with a white stripe. There are 2 of them. One is for the seats and the doorlocks, and one of them is the fuel pump.
Pop off the trim panel and door sil with a phillips head screw driver and pull the carpet back. Have a look at the wire loom that goes under the plastic placeholder. Moisture accumulates during winter or rainy weather and wreaks havoc on the connectors for the front-rear harness connections.
A better idea: Spend less than 5 minutes checking the wiring harness. The wire for the fuel pump runs along the drivers rocker panel. And the connecter that's by the trunk release IS PRONE TO CORROSION. It's the heavier black wire with a white stripe. There are 2 of them. One is for the seats and the doorlocks, and one of them is the fuel pump.
Pop off the trim panel and door sil with a phillips head screw driver and pull the carpet back. Have a look at the wire loom that goes under the plastic placeholder. Moisture accumulates during winter or rainy weather and wreaks havoc on the connectors for the front-rear harness connections.
SuperHO
Mental Patient
Why in God's name did you take a SHO to the stealership? I hope you bought some **** Eeze.......Chances are, both of your fuel pumps are shot, fan notwithstanding. I'd start with that anyway, just cuz it's preventive maintenance, it's cheap and it's easy to do. If that don't get it working, then look elsewhere.
believe me it wasn't my first choice, i called 7 places, the first 6 said they wont work on a SHO
OhioGuy82
New Member
What kind of a shop doesn't want to work on cars?? That's the first place I took mine. I didn't hesitate to take it. Mine is still in the trouble shooting mode. I would do it myself but I work 2 jobs and have no time.
They want $650 to open up the glove box, and swap out the PCM? Sounds like they don't want to work on your car.
Now you did check for fuel pressure, right? Just because you can't hear the pump doesn't necessarily mean it's dead. Go to the schrader valve, take a rag and screwdriver and press the center pin like you're letting the air out of someone's tires.
Now you did check for fuel pressure, right? Just because you can't hear the pump doesn't necessarily mean it's dead. Go to the schrader valve, take a rag and screwdriver and press the center pin like you're letting the air out of someone's tires.
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gurucomputers
SHO Member
:laugh_ti:
It's not the PCM, It's the crankshaft, rod bearings, wingnut, and right rear tire causing the problem. :laugh_ti:
OhioGuy82
New Member
My SHO is still in the shop. luckyGAT. What's the word on your SHO?
SuperHO
Mental Patient
How come no one listens anymore? Both of ya'll should just replace yer friggin fuel pumps and call it good....
OhioGuy82
New Member
I'de be more than happy to replace mine if I knew 100% it was the fuel pump and I didn't work 12hr days. I don't want do to "easter egging". I've did that before, very expensive and annoying.
SuperHO
Mental Patient
Don't think of it as "easter egging", as you so eloquently put it...think of it as preventive maintenance. Cuz sooner or later, if it's an OEM fuel pump, it WILL fail.
OhioGuy82
New Member
Has your fuel pump failed and had the same symptoms as mine? I just remembered, while cranking my C/E light dims almost to the point where it's out! Had a ABS light blinking right before it died. Anymore ideas?
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revhardSHO
SHO Member
The fuel pump is not a hard job if you cut an access door. There was a good writeup on this a while back.
SuperHO
Mental Patient
There's also an awesome write-up here:
http://www.shophoenixproject.com/fueldoor/fueldoor.htm
takes about a half hour....maybe a little longer if you gotta drill a hole and use a pair of $10 tin snips from Wal-Mart....or chisel a hole with a hammer and screwdriver like I did...:theyareontome:
Worth a shot, ain't it?
http://www.shophoenixproject.com/fueldoor/fueldoor.htm
takes about a half hour....maybe a little longer if you gotta drill a hole and use a pair of $10 tin snips from Wal-Mart....or chisel a hole with a hammer and screwdriver like I did...:theyareontome:
Worth a shot, ain't it?
OhioGuy82
New Member
The SHO fired right up at the shop. I drove around with the mechanic for about an hour and on the way back it died. They called me an hour later and said the car fired again and died. I'm guessing the fuel pump is breaking down and shutting off. It does have spark while cranking. That eliminates a ECM problem.
SuperHO
Mental Patient
Did they check fuel pressure after it died?
If it's got fuel pressure, then congrats....you've just bought a new crank sensor.
if the CKP malfunctions, it causes all sorts of wierd shit to happen...least of all is the car dying. Last time I had one fail, I had spark all over the place. I had plenty of fuel. Thing is, the spark wasn't firing at the same time as the fuel injectors, and often on the wrong cylinder. That's why you'll get fuel and spark, but no ignition.
Unless you have deep pockets, I wouldn't let the shop replace that, as it involves removal of everything in front of the engine. I'd save the money and just do a front 60k while I was in there (water pump, timing belt, timing belt pulley if ATX, accessory drive belt, cam sensor and crank sensor). it's worth it.
If it's got fuel pressure, then congrats....you've just bought a new crank sensor.
if the CKP malfunctions, it causes all sorts of wierd shit to happen...least of all is the car dying. Last time I had one fail, I had spark all over the place. I had plenty of fuel. Thing is, the spark wasn't firing at the same time as the fuel injectors, and often on the wrong cylinder. That's why you'll get fuel and spark, but no ignition.
Unless you have deep pockets, I wouldn't let the shop replace that, as it involves removal of everything in front of the engine. I'd save the money and just do a front 60k while I was in there (water pump, timing belt, timing belt pulley if ATX, accessory drive belt, cam sensor and crank sensor). it's worth it.
OhioGuy82
New Member
I don't know if they checked it or not.When it died the first time I pressed the needle on the schrader valve and fuel shot out. Could that be residual pressure in the line? It sat for about 5 hours before I took it to the shop. Turned the key to fullfill my curiousity and no fuel pump prime.
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ohfosho
ontario SHOwner
im curious why no one checks codes... it so easy, and it may have pin pointed the problem right away.
most likely CPS- crank sensor, could also be cam sensor
but from what i hear, could still be the fuel pump. fuel pumps generally give warning a long time before they go... they get louder, and generally just get weaker/slower. and actually the more gas in the tank, the cooler the pump runs. so if theres not much gas and the pump is weaker, it may not feel like pumping. you need a gauge on the shradder valve to see how much pressure you have at prime time, and when running.
most likely CPS- crank sensor, could also be cam sensor
but from what i hear, could still be the fuel pump. fuel pumps generally give warning a long time before they go... they get louder, and generally just get weaker/slower. and actually the more gas in the tank, the cooler the pump runs. so if theres not much gas and the pump is weaker, it may not feel like pumping. you need a gauge on the shradder valve to see how much pressure you have at prime time, and when running.
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