Its the wiper motor/relay question

[doclees]

No go on the new MFS. Is there a fusable link? I see it starting out strong but after about 7 min is slows then stops. It seems to start up easier now with the new MFS. So just as a recap I have swapped the motor, put in a new governor and MFS. Any clues?

 

[SHOZ123]

What year is your car or did I miss that?

 

[doclees]

93 atx.

 

[SHOZ123]

I suspect a ground that is overloaded and when used on hi heats up to the point it fails. When used on low it just takes longer due to the lower current.

The wiper module and the wiper motor share the same ground.

It has two splices in it.

The module has two grounds that splice together then splice into the motor ground.

Out of the module is a black wire and a white/purple wire, both are grounds. These will join with the black that comes off the motor and then continues on to the body on the left front fender in the engine compartment by the large rectangular wire harness connector.

 

[doclees]

Thanks I am on it. I'll report back.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Is that ground G101 on the left front inner fender, near connector C100 ?

[deleted]

Out of the module is a black wire and a white/purple wire, both are grounds. These will join with the black that comes off the motor and then continues on to the body on the left front fender in the engine compartment by the large rectangular wire harness connector.

 

[SHOZ123]

What is G101 for?

 

[doclees]

I think I found the correct ground. Two orange/yellow? and one black wire making up two ground connectors on the drivers fender. After removing them I tried the wipers and they didn't go on so I assume that is the one. Fairly corroded. I sanded the contacts, bottom of bolt washer and fender. Reattached and tested wipers. They go on but I didn't get the chance to run them for more than 30 seconds. Later when the wife gets back I'll run them for over 10 min and report back again. Hmmmm I guess I should hunt down all my grounds and clean the contacts. Might prevent further ghosts in the machine.

 

[SHOZ123]

You should check the resistance of the ground wire from the fender location to both the motor and the module. Ohms should be less that .5 above your meter leads base.

 

[doclees]

Ok I guess that is the next step since it is still stopping. It is stopping on all settings. Good for about 10 min then stop for 30 sec. to 3-4 min.

 

[n8rsk8r]

if there is a great deal of resistance then maybe swapping out the factory wire for some heavier gauge wire is in order. I am watching this thread cause my 93 does the same thing, pretty stupid when it rains and you have to drive home to get a different car to drive :nonono:

 

[doclees]

New observation. Wife gave me the car today. Haven't checked resistance yet but washer motor doesn't go on when the wipers stop. I can hear the wiper governor click when the power cuts out. Don't know if this helps.

So can you test a circuit breaker? I see it does control the wipers and the washer pump and nothing else.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

It is part of the cataloging system used in the EVTM to identify and standardize various parts in the electrical system. Harness connectors begin with a "C", harness grounds "G", and harness splices "S". Additionally, the number identifies where in the vehicle the harness component is found. For example, 100 series are in the engine compartment, 200 series under dash, 300 the interior compartment, 400 series the trunk. Realize that there are exceptions to this, but it is a reliable means for identifying connectors, grounds, and splices throughout the vehicle.

What is G101 for?

 

[doclees]

Swapped out the breaker. No change. I did use a 15 amp reg fuse and it blew as soon as I turned them on. Then I used a 20 amp one. Worked well. Didn't run them long since I read the breaker is 17 amp. Napa guy says the breaker markings of 8.25 A means amps. Sooooo what next?

 

[n8rsk8r]

DO NOT run a higher fuse in your fusebox than what is supposed to be there. Did that as a pup to my mustang and fried out the wiring harness and cost me 3 trips to a specialist and ~$500.00 to fix.

 

[doclees]

Here is more info. I Ohmed the grounds to the fender. On the 200 ohms setting, my lowest, the black wire reads .8. The yellow/orange is 53 to 57. I did this by removing the fender connector and ran the meter between the wire and fender as the ground. I also did this from the wiper motor connector to the other end that connects to the fender while the end was off the fender. No diff.
Now for all you electrical gurus here is other stuff that may or may not help. OD switch hasn't worked for over a year. Have a history of frequent bad Advance Auto starters - 5 in 3 years. Starting to get that hard starting like the battery is low or the starter is going again but the battery ohms at 12.58 with engine off. My door ajar light is stuck on but I know I screwed up the switch with chain **** for the lock. Help my electrical skills are minimal.

 

[doclees]

OK how about this question. Can a short not related to the wiper system cause the wiper breaker to open when the wiper system draws current?

 

[doclees]

Last bit of info. I cleaned 2 grounds under the dash at the steering column with no change. It is clear that the governor is tripping off. I didn't know it has it's own breaker or what ever. I can feel a click when the wipers go off and on. Any ideas? Anyone with a wiring diagram of the leads going into and out of the governor?
thanks.

 

[n8rsk8r]

sounds like you have alot of my problems, I have had SOO many starters.. and the wiperblade problem.. I did have a non op. O/D button, but switched that badboy out.

I have a ton of schematics, if I get a chance I will look for you tomorrow night. As I said, this effects me also, I would like to help as much as I can, then maybe mine would work also!

 

[doclees]

Great! I would love to fix this before Friday as we head to the beach. Might need to take the Bonneville.