ok i think i am f*****

[quikSHOilver]

The proper way to go about it is this:

Helicoils do work, but I got tired of dealing with them. BTW, if you have an M7x1 helicoil, and you stripped out the threads, you don't have to drill. The hole is pretty much already the size you need it to be to start tapping.

I love the idea of the studs set up you got! If you not mind me asking you what size thread and tap?

 

[yamahaSHO]

I love the idea of the studs set up you got! If you not mind me asking you what size thread and tap?

Thread and tap for what? Helicoils? That depends on what bolt you want to use. I just had studs made for the stock threads. The engage more threads and are loc-tite'd in. The studs are the stock thread pitch, M7x1.

 

[Racer X]

Thread and tap for what? Helicoils? That depends on what bolt you want to use. I just had studs made for the stock threads. The engage more threads and are loc-tite'd in. The studs are the stock thread pitch, M7x1.

Jason, what are the size specs on those (length, specifically)? I think I might see if MMCC has something similar that I can pick up from them.

 

[yamahaSHO]

The machine shop had to make them as they couldn't find anyone that made M7x1 studs. They cut them all to length and installed them.

 

[AREA 91]

1/4" drive for a torque wrench? I don't think I've even seen one of those.

Jason, what rock have you been under?

 

[back2SHO]

puuuuuuuuuuuuuurty.

-t.

 

[yamahaSHO]

1/4" drive for a torque wrench? I don't think I've even seen one of those.

Jason, what rock have you been under?

Anything needing that low of torque can usually be done by hand. I've never even looked for one.

 

[93rev2sev]

Yamahasho...how long are the studs? any idea?

I found some threaded metric 316 stainless rod in m7x1. how much do I need to buy?

 

[93rev2sev]

Has anyone ever suggested making a cam cap girdle?

 

[K-Dawg]

What problem would that solve?

 

[93rev2sev]

Dunno if it solves anything...perhaps just beefing up the cam caps with a girdle would add integrity to the valvetrain...higher RPM float limit? Just a thought.

that + coolness factor

 

[yamahaSHO]

That's definitely not going to help in valve float. I think you'd waste time and money working that out with the minimal functionality it will provide.

 

[Racer X]

FWIW, I just got done installing 3.0L cams in my 3.2L. Between the front and rear heads, I stripped 0 bolt holes.

100in-lbs first stage, 12.5 ft. lbs second stage.

 

[yamahaSHO]

FWIW, I just got done installing 3.0L cams in my 3.2L. Between the front and rear heads, I stripped 0 bolt holes.

100in-lbs first stage, 12.5 ft. lbs second stage.

The bigger problem is when you have to do it several times. They eventually strip because you weaken the threads everytime you torque and loosen.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Great idea adapting the head-/main-cap stud idea for the heads.


I have a couple of questions in reference to your setup.

• Why are you using a hex-nut/washer setup, versus a hex-****** nut where the ****** would be more equally distribute the torque across the washer surface?
  
  
• Are the studs threaded along their entire length, as it appears? The reason I ask, is every stud kit I have ever used, only has threads cut at the two ends so
  the uncut center region can provide more support/less flex to the head or main cap. Additionally, using an end-threaded stud prevents the possibility that the
  center threaded region could cut into the cap, if the cap is not sleeved.

I too am curious as to the material your shop used, as well as the length the studs were cut-to.

Steel or stainless steel? Looks like they were cut on a lathe.


Any details would be greatly appreciated.

The proper way to go about it is this:

Helicoils do work, but I got tired of dealing with them. BTW, if you have an M7x1 helicoil, and you stripped out the threads, you don't have to drill. The hole is pretty much already the size you need it to be to start tapping.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Why are you using a hex-nut/washer setup, versus a hex-****** nut where the ****** would be more equally distribute the torque across the washer surface?

That's what the machine shop gave me when I asked them for studs. I think these will work just fine, so I don't feel a need to get anything different.

Are the studs threaded along their entire length, as it appears? The reason I ask, is every stud kit I have ever used, only has threads cut at the two ends so
the uncut center region can provide more support/less flex to the head or main cap. Additionally, using an end-threaded stud prevents the possibility that the
center threaded region could cut into the cap, if the cap is not sleeved.

Nobody makes an M7x1 stud, so the machine shop felt all that was needed was to find some long threaded stock and cut them to fit. I'm not willing to dish out the money for someone to find a rod, cut them, then cut threads into just the ends. Since there are dowels on the heads for the caps, it'll center just like stock.

I too am curious as to the material your shop used, as well as the length the studs were cut-to.

Steel or stainless steel? Looks like they were cut on a lathe.


Any details would be greatly appreciated.

I believe they are stainless steel. As far as the length, I will have to measure the spare I have. They do engage more thread in the heads (most bottom out, but studs are all the sam length) and there's plenty of Loctite to prevent them from ever turning.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

yamahaSHO - thanks for the reply!

When you check the length, can you mic the diameter of the stainless steel stock they used - I may look for stainless steel rod stock, dig-out my tap and die set, and play a little in the shop ....

Again - thanks!!!

 

[yamahaSHO]

The thread is an M7x1. If you follow that, it's 7mm diameter and 1 thread per mm.