A/C Issue(s)

[Hollon71]

Question. What would make your a/c not blow cold air after you hit the gas pedal hard, with acceleration? My car has a new a/c condenser and plenty of freon.

Any suggestion would be grateful.

 

[Majestic]

Because the compressor disengages at something over like 75% throttle.

 

[Hollon71]

Because the compressor disengages at something over like 75% throttle.

Buy a new a/c compressor?

 

[Majestic]

Buy a new a/c compressor?

No. The ECU is designed to disengage the compressor over a certain throttle percentage. It's totally normal.

 

[E1]

No. The ECU is designed to disengage the compressor over a certain throttle percentage. It's totally normal.

^^^

This. But if your AC does not come back on again after you go back to regular driving, reference the instructions I gave you a couple days ago.

ECU - Brain

https://www.ronfrancis.com/ Try here. Thank you. Lets see if something can happen here. I also came across this one as well...

shoforum.com

 

[gamefanatic]

I 100% agree with E1 based on what you stated.

However, if you aren't hitting the gas (it's really about the calculated engine load) pay attention to the circumstances.
Is it hard acceleration or when accelerating up a hill? Our systems run on Vacuum in the cabin, and any vacuum issues can cause vents to change positions.
Blend Door is what controls how much heat/cold is mixed to get the target temperature.
- If you raise the temperature to 90°F, do you get heat?
- Moving it back down to 60°F, does it change to cold?
- Does changing where it's blowing out of make a difference.

These compressors really are rock solid, but if in a rust area or under high heat pressures, they can fail.

 

[Hollon71]

I 100% agree with E1 based on what you stated.

However, if you aren't hitting ******* the gas (it's really about the calculated engine load) pay attention to the circumstances.
Is it hard acceleration or when accelerating up a hill? Our systems run on Vacuum in the cabin, and any vacuum issues can cause vents to change positions.
Blend Door is what controls how much heat/cold is mixed to get the target temperature.
- If you raise the temperature to 90°F, do you get heat?
- Moving it back down to 60°,F does it change to cold?
- Does changing where it's blowing out of make a difference.

These compressors really are rock solid, but if in a rust area or under high heat pressures, they can fail.

I live in South Texas. No hills here. We are a smidge over sea level. The heater doesn’t work. Thank the lord we only had 2/3 really cold days last winter.

As far as the a/c, yes. I’m hitting the accelerator somewhat hard. That is when it stops blowing out cold air.

 

[luigisho]

That is an operational parameter of the compressor. Does the cool air return after you let off the go pedal? If also yes then it is operating normally

 

[gamefanatic]

I live in South Texas. No hills here. We are a smidge over sea level. The heater doesn’t work. Thank the lord we only had 2/3 really cold days last winter.

As far as the a/c, yes. I’m hitting the accelerator somewhat hard. That is when it stops blowing out cold air.

Heater not working is most likely due to a blend door failure. I believe that part is still available. If you have the tool to remove the football without disconnecting it you can see the blend door motor/actuator and see if its moving.

Could be something is broke or stuck in the diverter.

Other possibility is the heater core is plugged, but thats less likely unless something got up in there. This scenario requires the dash to be pulled back to repair.

 

[Hollon71]

That is an operational parameter of the compressor. Does the cool air return after you let off the go pedal? If also yes then it is operating normally

No. It will not start blowing cold. It will remain blowing hot. That is why I’m not going to drive through the King Ranch, and head up to Corpus where I could take it to my brothers Ford Dealership. Although we have one down here, I feel safer taking it to the Corpus location.

 

[Hollon71]

Other possibility is the heater core is plugged, but thats less likely unless something got up in there. This scenario requires the dash to be pulled back to repair.

Sounds like a Ford/Lincoln. LOL

 

[luigisho]

Like E1 stated before it could be the clutch gap. One way to get by was pull a shim. You should check refrig level and maybe consider a clutch replacement later. Hopefully not blend door.

 

[Hollon71]

It is just extremely hard to find people to work on vehicles down here in the Valley with border patrol and ICE agents all along the Valley area since we are just across the river from Mexico. I just don't want to drive my SHO through the King Ranch and go to my brother-in-law's Ford Dealership and not have the a/c blow out cold air.

I'm going to probably get my sedan a new High, and Low, Pressure Sensors. Maybe a new a/c clutch?

 

[E1]

It comes on in the first place = Low pressure sensor is working.
It runs normally until disengaged = High pressure switch is working.

Once clutch disengages, it will not restart = clutch gap issue.

Please - Listen, and take the clutch apart and remove that little shim. All it will cost is time.

BUT - If you want to buy and install a new clutch, that will fix your problem too for a lot more money.

 

[Hollon71]

I went ahead and ordered myself a NEW A/C Compressor yesterday. It was about $135, then shipping and taxes.

 

[E1]

Shaking my head,.....

 

[Hollon71]

Almost everything seems almost new on the sedan, why not replace the a/c? I will keep the old one, just in case.

 

[E1]

If you are rolling in cash, by all means take your chosen path. It will work. All it costs is money.

You will need to evacuate the system prior to changing the compressor, then go through the act of changing the compressor, then re-evacuate the system before recharging. Then recharge the system and test.

Or

You can remove one 14 mm bolt on the compressor clutch, pull the outer guts, pull out a little shim and put it back together for nothing. You don't need to evacuate the system or even remove the serpentine belt.

But hey, knock yourself out.

I can lead you to water...... ( Back to shaking my head..... )

 

[gamefanatic]

I went ahead and ordered myself a NEW A/C Compressor yesterday. It was about $135, then shipping and taxes.

Be wary of the UAC models. I might just have been lucky to have gone through 3 of them. UAC is typically the MFR of the "new" models.
The clutch is not as strong as OEM, the wires are a lesser guage leading to clutch issues. In at least 2 cases the clutch failed, even though the gap was at the time of install within spec. 1 in my case tore its-self up internally.
Of course the case/clutch are just enough different from OEM, that you can't interchange the parts. Either way, I found they would not hold up under the extreme conditions I live in. I imagine they would survive a less extreme weather.

I finally was able to find a used OEM about 6 years ago, and been using it ever since.

For this reason, I highly recommend a rebuild of OEM or if you can source the parts an NOS version. I was able to source the parts a number of years ago and have it standing by. Living in the desert, having A/C is a necessity.

 

[Hollon71]

For this reason, I highly recommend a rebuild of OEM or if you can source the parts an NOS version. I was able to source the parts a number of years ago and have it standing by. Living in the desert, having A/C is a necessity.

Well, we don’t get the dry heat like you get. It gets hot down here in Deep South Texas, 40/45 minutes away from SpaceX. We get plenty of Humidity and heat. Summer usually gets an average of around 99/100. We don’t get much rain like you don’t get in Arizona.

I just need to make sure that I can drive my sedan through the King Ranch so I can go to my brothers Ford Dealership in the Corpus area.