Rotora's Finally In
- Thread starter AzSHOluv
- Start date
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2K16SHO
Member
These are what I have on my car, very happy with them. With the flower wheels I had to shorten the unthreaded part of the factory studs for clearance, but that wasn't a big deal.
yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
Custom made mine, probably 70k miles on them. No issues or shakes. Checked them last year on cmm at work and still exact measurements when I had them made.
studio460
SHO Member
Update: These wheel-spacers have a hub-bore which are 0.01-0.03. too small.
Wow! I checked Amazon again today, and whudduya know? I found a set of 5x4.5/63.4mm-bore wheels in 25mm (0.984 inches). They offer them in up to 38mm- and 50mm-wide (1.5"-2")! Should be here tomorrow.
Unsure why my previous searches never showed this result (I ended up searching "63.4 bore wheel spacers"). Hopefully, all is well now. Just received a pair of brand-new AC Delco digital torque-wrenches today anyway—they even come with a calibration certificates.
The problem was, the spacers from Summit wouldn't ship for several weeks, so this is a lifesaver. We're planning a quick ski trip to the local mountains since we finally had some precipitation here in L.A.—so that I could finally enjoy the AWD capability of my SHO—a huge reason I bought the car!
Wow! I checked Amazon again today, and whudduya know? I found a set of 5x4.5/63.4mm-bore wheels in 25mm (0.984 inches). They offer them in up to 38mm- and 50mm-wide (1.5"-2")! Should be here tomorrow.
Unsure why my previous searches never showed this result (I ended up searching "63.4 bore wheel spacers"). Hopefully, all is well now. Just received a pair of brand-new AC Delco digital torque-wrenches today anyway—they even come with a calibration certificates.
The problem was, the spacers from Summit wouldn't ship for several weeks, so this is a lifesaver. We're planning a quick ski trip to the local mountains since we finally had some precipitation here in L.A.—so that I could finally enjoy the AWD capability of my SHO—a huge reason I bought the car!
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studio460
SHO Member
Thanks! As I wrote above before seeing your post, I just found a set on Amazon. By the way, these are one-inch spacers with a 63.4mm bore-diameter, correct? (eBay link no longer propagates?)
studio460
SHO Member
Sweet! Wish I had your skills/tools!
2K16SHO
Member
Glad you found some, and yes 63.4mm.
Not sure what happened to the ebay link, it worked when I first posted it.
Mind sharing the list of parts, still deciding how to handle my brakes project. I would love big brakes in front but don't want to cut/remove emergency brake in rear. Thanks for the consideration.
studio460
SHO Member
Update: I am officially an idiot! All hub-measurements were made BEFORE mounting the rotor. Everything in this post is basically written in error (ignore).
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studio460
SHO Member
The Taurus SHO Rotora kit includes everything you need except the spacers necessary to clear your wheels (distance varies based on your wheels). I did buy some rubber stops to prevent the brake fluid from sprouting from the open brake-line once the old calipers are removed.
Rotora kit key components:
• Custom bracket for calipers.
• Custom stainless-steel brake-lines w/banjo bolts, etc.
The only other thing you need are 5x4.5 wheel-spacers. Depth will depend on your specific wheels. My wheels are from the 2012 SHOs and require 20-25mm of additional space at minimum from my best estimate.
Typically the only difficulty in adapting other big-brakes is finding or fabricating the caliper-brackets (e.g., someone made some custom brackets which fitted brakes made to fit Porsches able to mount to 2003-2004 Mercury Marauders). TCE Performance and Wilwood make big-brake kits to fit various Fords, but I think the engraved Wilwood logo is so ugly I never considered them.
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Thanks for that overview.
studio460
SHO Member
New wheels!
Well, I've gotten all kinds of hub-diameter specifications that don't line-up, so I'm buying new wheels.
New tires, too . . .
Since I'm getting new wheels, I figured I'd splurge and get new tires as well, a set of Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar summer tires. WheelHero will mount, balance, and install new sensors prior to shipping (and will now include the necessary 25mm spacers I need), so all I'll have to do when I get them is bolt them on!
Well, I've gotten all kinds of hub-diameter specifications that don't line-up, so I'm buying new wheels.
New tires, too . . .
Since I'm getting new wheels, I figured I'd splurge and get new tires as well, a set of Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar summer tires. WheelHero will mount, balance, and install new sensors prior to shipping (and will now include the necessary 25mm spacers I need), so all I'll have to do when I get them is bolt them on!
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Congrats! Send pics
studio460
SHO Member
Thanks!
Custom Offsets: [NJ-based custom-offset wheel superstore]
FYI: I found another online wheel dealer with an incredibly vast selection—I believe it's literally the largest wheel inventory in the world. Notably, they custom-drill each wheel per order, so custom offsets (plus many other custom options) are available, and most, at no additional cost. If I ever order wheels again, this is where I would go.
Bonoss 7075 T6 forged-aluminum spacers/ISO 12.9 studs:
FYI: In my search for spacers, I found a SHO owner's posts on another SHO forum who successfully installed Bonoss-brand spacers onto his SHO. I emailed Bonoss a detailed report of my fitment issue with the Ford wheel-hubs and they replied immediately with a request to send some photos of the hubs.
Though pricey (double or more than spacers sold on Amazon), Bonoss' spacers employ higher-grade, 7075 T6 aluminum and stud-strength specifications (12.9) superior to that of every other competing brand I found. The only downside is they're not in the US; they're located in mainland China.
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studio460
SHO Member
Finally!
Wheelhero sent the wrong-sized plastic hub-centric adapters, but I did use their supplied 25mm wheel-spacer, which they included at no extra charge (oddly, they sent 25mm spacers with a 70.6mm bore, not the 63.4mm bore which the Taurus has).
I had to use aluminum hub-centric adapters, both on top and behind the spacer, because I couldn't find the correct sizes in plastic. I'll post the specs of what I installed later, but after about a dozen false-starts, I finally got the new wheels installed.
Note that the wheels I chose have a generous void between the lug-holes, so cutting down the factory wheel-hub's studs aren't even necessary. Also, simply slicing the bracket which retains the emergency-brake cable with a cutoff-tool was far easier than trying to release the spring.
Note that the Rotora brake-set and installation instructions are superb. Everything you need is included, and the instructions are truly step-by-step and Taurus-specific. Kudos to Rotora for their excellent product and peerless customer support. It was the wheel fitment which raised all the issues. Here's some pics!
Note that the center-caps aren't installed. I'm filling them in (they have an engraved logo) so I can sand them flat to be able to apply a set of "Ford Performance" vinyl appliqués that I ordered off Etsy.
Wheelhero sent the wrong-sized plastic hub-centric adapters, but I did use their supplied 25mm wheel-spacer, which they included at no extra charge (oddly, they sent 25mm spacers with a 70.6mm bore, not the 63.4mm bore which the Taurus has).
I had to use aluminum hub-centric adapters, both on top and behind the spacer, because I couldn't find the correct sizes in plastic. I'll post the specs of what I installed later, but after about a dozen false-starts, I finally got the new wheels installed.
Note that the wheels I chose have a generous void between the lug-holes, so cutting down the factory wheel-hub's studs aren't even necessary. Also, simply slicing the bracket which retains the emergency-brake cable with a cutoff-tool was far easier than trying to release the spring.
Note that the Rotora brake-set and installation instructions are superb. Everything you need is included, and the instructions are truly step-by-step and Taurus-specific. Kudos to Rotora for their excellent product and peerless customer support. It was the wheel fitment which raised all the issues. Here's some pics!
Note that the center-caps aren't installed. I'm filling them in (they have an engraved logo) so I can sand them flat to be able to apply a set of "Ford Performance" vinyl appliqués that I ordered off Etsy.
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this awesome and a parts list would be awesome. I am concerned about this Jon cause of my rims. I so need those, my rears squeal after heating up, back passenger side. Time to replace the OEM crapola.
studio460
SHO Member
Note: Everything below only applies if using 76.1mm-bore spacers! [63.4mm-bore is preferred, but I couldn't find any in 5x4.5.]
Sure! Note that I used aluminum hub-centric adapter rings both between the factory hub and the 25mm spacer, and between the spacer and the aftermarket wheel. Opinions vary on plastic vs. aluminum (most recommend plastic), but at least one racing tech said they used aluminum since the plastic rings can melt.
[Note: Every plastic spacer I ordered had a "lip" on the outer-edge, including all the plastic Circuit-branded rings—this lip prevents the wheels from bolting flush to the spacer, leaving about a 1.0-1.5mm gap all around—a quick Google search said this is dangerous. Both brands of the aluminum rings I ordered DO NOT have this lip and mated perfectly to the aftermarket wheels I have.]
I understand the rings primarily serve as merely a "guide-pin" to aid in centering the wheels and do not service any loads, but I'm glad I went with aluminum anyway. But note that the main reason to avoid aluminum rings is because they often permanently fuse to the steel wheel-hub and alloy rims.
Here's some notes on what I used:
• Information only: 2019 Ford Taurus factory wheel-hub diameter: 63.4mm.
• Import-brand 25mm spacer: 1/2-20 5x4.5; 70.6mm bore-diameter.
• Wheel Connect aluminum70.1mm to 63.4mm hub-centric rings (spacer-to-hub).
• Correction: the spacer-to-hub ring should be 70.6mm to 63.4mm.
• Aftermaket wheel-bore: 76.1mm.
• Circuit Performance aluminum 76.1mm to 70.6mm (4-pack, x2 sets) hub-centric rings
(wheel-to-spacer).
Why did I use a 70.6mm-bore spacer instead of a 63.4mm-bore spacer to directly fit the factory-hub? One reason is that WheelHero supplied them, but mainly because I simply couldn't find a 63.4mm-bore spacer that fit!
According to Google's AI answer, it's apparently okay to use a spacer with a larger bore-diameter than your wheel-hub's as long as you install the wheel perfectly centered (which torquing conical lug-nuts "in the air," and installing the hub-centric rings enable).
Need to check second dimension for the spacer (I forgot what it was). Note that the WheelHero-supplied spacers have a bore larger than the Ford hub. I used it anyway because, again, I simply couldn't find any 5x4.5 spacers with 63.4mm bore-diameters; e.g., I ordered one set off Amazon and the bore-diameter was wildly off (70+mm). I ordered another and the bore-diameter was 0.5-1.0mm too small.
Additional notes:
• At least for my particular wheels, no cut-off was required to the factory wheel-studs.
• I applied Permatex anti-seize to everything.
• I only lightly hand-tightened each rotor retaining screw since its #10 Torx-head is easily stripped.
• I applied 110 foot-pounds of torque to both the spacer-nuts and wheel lug-nuts.
Why this wheel-fitment exercise was so challenging, I'll never know. It's partly due to the limited availability of 25mm-thick spacers in a 5x4.5 bolt-pattern, but it's mainly due to the fact that hub-centric rings simply aren't available in every imaginable inner- and outer-diameter.
Sure! Note that I used aluminum hub-centric adapter rings both between the factory hub and the 25mm spacer, and between the spacer and the aftermarket wheel. Opinions vary on plastic vs. aluminum (most recommend plastic), but at least one racing tech said they used aluminum since the plastic rings can melt.
[Note: Every plastic spacer I ordered had a "lip" on the outer-edge, including all the plastic Circuit-branded rings—this lip prevents the wheels from bolting flush to the spacer, leaving about a 1.0-1.5mm gap all around—a quick Google search said this is dangerous. Both brands of the aluminum rings I ordered DO NOT have this lip and mated perfectly to the aftermarket wheels I have.]
I understand the rings primarily serve as merely a "guide-pin" to aid in centering the wheels and do not service any loads, but I'm glad I went with aluminum anyway. But note that the main reason to avoid aluminum rings is because they often permanently fuse to the steel wheel-hub and alloy rims.
Here's some notes on what I used:
• Information only: 2019 Ford Taurus factory wheel-hub diameter: 63.4mm.
• Import-brand 25mm spacer: 1/2-20 5x4.5; 70.6mm bore-diameter.
• Wheel Connect aluminum
• Correction: the spacer-to-hub ring should be 70.6mm to 63.4mm.
• Aftermaket wheel-bore: 76.1mm.
• Circuit Performance aluminum 76.1mm to 70.6mm (4-pack, x2 sets) hub-centric rings
(wheel-to-spacer).
Why did I use a 70.6mm-bore spacer instead of a 63.4mm-bore spacer to directly fit the factory-hub? One reason is that WheelHero supplied them, but mainly because I simply couldn't find a 63.4mm-bore spacer that fit!
According to Google's AI answer, it's apparently okay to use a spacer with a larger bore-diameter than your wheel-hub's as long as you install the wheel perfectly centered (which torquing conical lug-nuts "in the air," and installing the hub-centric rings enable).
Need to check second dimension for the spacer (I forgot what it was). Note that the WheelHero-supplied spacers have a bore larger than the Ford hub. I used it anyway because, again, I simply couldn't find any 5x4.5 spacers with 63.4mm bore-diameters; e.g., I ordered one set off Amazon and the bore-diameter was wildly off (70+mm). I ordered another and the bore-diameter was 0.5-1.0mm too small.
Additional notes:
• At least for my particular wheels, no cut-off was required to the factory wheel-studs.
• I applied Permatex anti-seize to everything.
• I only lightly hand-tightened each rotor retaining screw since its #10 Torx-head is easily stripped.
• I applied 110 foot-pounds of torque to both the spacer-nuts and wheel lug-nuts.
Why this wheel-fitment exercise was so challenging, I'll never know. It's partly due to the limited availability of 25mm-thick spacers in a 5x4.5 bolt-pattern, but it's mainly due to the fact that hub-centric rings simply aren't available in every imaginable inner- and outer-diameter.
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This list is awesome thanks so much!
studio460
SHO Member
You're welcome! Hold off on acting on any of the info—I need to double-check all the specs I listed.
Note:
You're likely better off finding a 63.4mm-bore spacer. The 5x4.5 63.4mm-bore spacer I found on Amazon was mislabeled and was actually 70mm+. If you're able to find a 63.4mm-bore spacer, you can omit the ring between the hub and the spacer, and only use one required to fit your particular wheel to the spacer.
Error:
Yup! Found an error (now corrected, above): I mounted 70.1mm rings to the factory wheel-hub—they should've been 70.6mm—the same size as the spacer's bore-diameter (I knew I felt a microscopic amount of play when fitting the spacers to the wheel-hub). I should correct that someday, but again, it's not too critical if using conical lug-nuts and tightening them while the tire is in the air.
In contrast, the Circuit-brand 76.1mm to 70.6mm rings fit perfectly both onto the spacer and into the wheel. Believe me, this gets confusing! I couldn't wrap my head around it until I had all the parts in front of me and test-fitted everything.
Note:
You're likely better off finding a 63.4mm-bore spacer. The 5x4.5 63.4mm-bore spacer I found on Amazon was mislabeled and was actually 70mm+. If you're able to find a 63.4mm-bore spacer, you can omit the ring between the hub and the spacer, and only use one required to fit your particular wheel to the spacer.
Error:
Yup! Found an error (now corrected, above): I mounted 70.1mm rings to the factory wheel-hub—they should've been 70.6mm—the same size as the spacer's bore-diameter (I knew I felt a microscopic amount of play when fitting the spacers to the wheel-hub). I should correct that someday, but again, it's not too critical if using conical lug-nuts and tightening them while the tire is in the air.
In contrast, the Circuit-brand 76.1mm to 70.6mm rings fit perfectly both onto the spacer and into the wheel. Believe me, this gets confusing! I couldn't wrap my head around it until I had all the parts in front of me and test-fitted everything.
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now complicate this with not having stock rims and a spacer I needed to put on the hub of the rotor. will need to digest this port, thanks.
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