Looking for the comprehensive water pump replacement thread...can't find it

[6500rpm]

Well, after 125k miles my daily finally had an issue...most likely water pump. There was a really good comprehensive thread on dyi replacement, part numbers, etc and I can't seem to find it if someone can throw me a bone.

Thankfully nothing in the oil , but looks to be running out from behind the alternator. Just spent a few minutes with the bore scope tonight when I noticed drips and can't tell for sure but it either the weap hole or possibly a small freeze plug. I'll know for sure this weekend when I take some things off. Most likely it's the pump so I want to start getting my ducks in a row and I'd like to read through the thread if I can find it. Plan on doing it with the engine in the car. I have access to Ford PTS, but it's always good to read members personal trials and tribulations.

MB

 

[Joshw0000]

I did some research when I had issues and it's too much for me to do. I did diagnose the issue by putting dye in the radiator and I could clearly see the weeping hole leaking with a blacklight pen. I had the timing chain replaced when a local shop replaced the water pump.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[6500rpm]

I do this for a living, but haven't been behind the timing chain cover on this particular engine. I knew this day would come and picked up the cam fixture a while back after stumbling on the thread I'm looking to revisit. I just want to read through it again and make a copy of the parts list before going to my dealer to order up.
I could be lucky as **** and have it turn out to be something else, but I wouldn't bet on it. Unfortunately working fleet, this will need to be done at home.

 

[Zpak]

I know what you’re talking about but I couldn’t find it quickly either. I did have this list saved though.

 

[SHOdded]

this info is from a flex site, upgraded certain components - water pump and timing chain among others.

Timing Chain / Water Pump Replacement - 2010 EB - Ford Flex Forum

one of the many threads there that may give you details of importance. youtube of course is also friendly to the flex crowd lol.

as far as current part numbers

Engine for 2013 Ford Taurus | Levittown Ford Parts

parts.levittownfordparts.com

fordpartsgiant.com usually has the most comprehensive catalog among dealer sites.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Things that ended up biting me when I did the job:

- Cam bolts are torque to yield. Make sure to order new ones.
- Required a specific 3 jaw gear puller. (Ordered from Amazon. $50) Also requires a specific installer. (Amazon $45, I hillbilly'd my way through that, I wasn't waiting for shipping again.)
- Cam holders helped a lot. (Amazon $30)
- Instructions stated that use of RTV other than TA-357 my cause oil foaming and engine damage so I made sure to get that. (Amazon $40)
- Instructions also called for specific 3M bristle disc for cleaning RTV surface so I ordered those. (Amazon $30)
- I did not order the spark plug or VCT seals. 1 week after I did the job, the front VCT seal tore and started puking oil. (I was able to take the throttle body off instead of the intake and get the valve cover out. Not sure if you could do that for the whole chain job.)
- I still have a P0018 code that is reoccurring. I am not sure if there is a way to make sure the VCT is in the correct position when setting the cams or what may be the issue.

 

[luigisho]

 

[SHOdded]

- I still have a P0018 code that is reoccurring. I am not sure if there is a way to make sure the VCT is in the correct position when setting the cams or what may be the issue.

did you check the phasers for wear when you did the job? even tho there is no bulletin on them wearing out, they can sometimes wear enough to cause you a headache with timing correctly. how do your vct advance errors look?

very rarely have i seen issues with the cam position sensors (under the head) but no harm in removing, cleaning/greasing the connections.

i assume you replaced the vct solenoids. a must for every job like this.

 

[6500rpm]

Thanks for everything posted so far. Any particular advice for replacement with the engine still in the vehicle.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

did you check the phasers for wear when you did the job? even tho there is no bulletin on them wearing out, they can sometimes wear enough to cause you a headache with timing correctly. how do your vct advance errors look?

very rarely have i seen issues with the cam position sensors (under the head) but no harm in removing, cleaning/greasing the connections.

i assume you replaced the vct solenoids. a must for every job like this.

I did not check them for wear. I was unaware there was a way to check them. I will probably replace them in the spring when I can be on the bike while the car is down.

I will try that while it is open.

I did not replace them originally. I did not replace the seals either which lead to one tearing/leaking about a week later. I then changed the front one. I still have to do the rear and have it sitting on my tool box. I believe the code is Bank 2 which I also believe is the front bank.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Thanks for everything posted so far. Any particular advice for replacement with the engine still in the vehicle.

Do your stretches and be prepared to lift the motor up and down a few times. You will be going through the wheel well and then from above, back and forth a few times.

 

[SHOdded]

I did not check them for wear. I was unaware there was a way to check them. I will probably replace them in the spring when I can be on the bike while the car is down.

I will try that while it is open.

I did not replace them originally. I did not replace the seals either which lead to one tearing/leaking about a week later. I then changed the front one. I still have to do the rear and have it sitting on my tool box. I believe the code is Bank 2 which I also believe is the front bank.

may be hard to see the phaser wear. but if you find that the timing chain is just a bit off when trying to line it up, phasers may be the culprit.

@6500rpm, having a set of slim wrenches will greatly help with the timing cover. especially important since you have a limited amount of time after applying the sealant to get the cover back on. unbolting the coolant degas bottle may give you a little extra room. this is based off the na 3.5 job.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

I did remove the degas bottle when I did mine.

 

[6500rpm]

6-7 hrs into it and I'm ready to start replacing parts. It hasn't been bad so far, more time consuming taking wire retainers loose and the cam cover gaskets stuck like glue (probably the worst part so far). Front motor mount to body bolts sucked thanks to Ford loctite. Took a bore scope to things at 125k the intake valves have minimal coking and piston tops are clean. Going to try raising the engine a bit more and see if that helps with the clearance for taking the timing cover on, it was fairly snug coming out and the RTV on the trip back in is a bit of a concern. Tools required other than the cam holders aren't bad.

 

[kryptto]

6-7 hrs into it and I'm ready to start replacing parts. It hasn't been bad so far, more time consuming taking wire retainers loose and the cam cover gaskets stuck like glue (probably the worst part so far). Front motor mount to body bolts sucked thanks to Ford loctite. Took a bore scope to things at 125k the intake valves have minimal coking and piston tops are clean. Going to try raising the engine a bit more and see if that helps with the clearance for taking the timing cover on, it was fairly snug coming out and the RTV on the trip back in is a bit of a concern. Tools required other than the cam holders aren't bad.

Keep us updated, Nice work!

 

[SHOdded]

6-7 hrs into it and I'm ready to start replacing parts. It hasn't been bad so far, more time consuming taking wire retainers loose and the cam cover gaskets stuck like glue (probably the worst part so far). Front motor mount to body bolts sucked thanks to Ford loctite. Took a bore scope to things at 125k the intake valves have minimal coking and piston tops are clean. Going to try raising the engine a bit more and see if that helps with the clearance for taking the timing cover on, it was fairly snug coming out and the RTV on the trip back in is a bit of a concern. Tools required other than the cam holders aren't bad.

what oil have you been using? full synthetic or blend? fair bit of varnish on there.

 

[6500rpm]

Royal Purple exclusively since I purchased at around 35k mi with 5k mile oil change intervals. When the project is done I'll transfer the borescope pictures over.

 

[ChinoSHO15]

Well, after 125k miles my daily finally had an issue...most likely water pump. There was a really good comprehensive thread on dyi replacement, part numbers, etc and I can't seem to find it if someone can throw me a bone.

Thankfully nothing in the oil , but looks to be running out from behind the alternator. Just spent a few minutes with the bore scope tonight when I noticed drips and can't tell for sure but it either the weap hole or possibly a small freeze plug. I'll know for sure this weekend when I take some things off. Most likely it's the pump so I want to start getting my ducks in a row and I'd like to read through the thread if I can find it. Plan on doing it with the engine in the car. I have access to Ford PTS, but it's always good to read members personal trials and tribulations.

MB

Water pump can be done in your garage just change the timing chain and accessories while you are there some people told me to
Do the phasers as well

 

[Highway Star]

What are you guys doing about the exhaust manifold leak at the head that the pre 2017’s all suffer from. When we do the timing chains we pull the engine so we can pull the pan, fix exhaust leaks, clean the intake ports, replace the thermo with police unit and sometimes do the oil pump if the car is going to a cold climate. We also drop, inspect and clean the pan. We also change ALL the valve cover seals on pre 15’s. If the engine is discolored from lack of oil changes we usually don’t reinstall it.

 

[Highway Star]

This is an engine we currently have for sale. Picture one is of the exhaust leak in the lower corner, pic 2 cleaned intake tracks, picture 3 lack of burnt on amber coating showing lack of maintenance. Picture 4 the intake tracks prior to cleaning.
Pictures 5 and 6 if your engine looks like this on the inside I would seriously not put $1000 to $2000 in this engine. Notice the nice clean new water pump. I can tell out that at a minimum this needs phasers, oil pump and oil pan flush, exhaust manifolds and intake track nasty..
Picture number 6 also highlights the problem of installing the timing chain cover in the vehicle. That blob of RTV on the phaser housing is from the 3 circular RTV points around the water pump and timing chain. The procedure requires you to put the timing cover straight on and not sliding it sideways while seating. It's not easy and the result is you blow the engine in a couple thousand miles from clogging the oil pump pickup with the excessive or improperly placed RTV. This is why we pull the pan to examine the pickup..This particular engine, (pictured 5 and 6), is a prime example of throwing money out the window ultimately costing for the timing chain replacement and then a complete engine replacement.