Engine Oil Leak 3.2L ATX

[GT94SHO]

Engine oil dripping from between end of oil pan and transaxle. Is it typically the rear main or something else?

 

[zoomlater]

It could be, but it wouldn't hurt to clean the area up and see where its coming from. Do you have any history if the transmission has been repaired previously and had the seal replaced

 

[rubydist]

odds are the rear main, but it could also be the rear pan end seal leaking, so it makes sense to clean it up and try to pin down what is leaking before digging into it.

 

[GT94SHO]

odds are the rear main, but it could also be the rear pan end seal leaking, so it makes sense to clean it up and try to pin down what is leaking before digging into it.

 

[GT94SHO]

I suppose the only way to know for sure is try the pan gasket first. The engine and transaxle have never been separated. 173k mi.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

It's almost certainly the oil pan seal, not the rear main. They rarely leak, but there's a design flaw when it comes to the oil pan.

The factory puts the seals in dry. They eventually get rock hard, exposing a design flaw in the engine. Pic shows the front edge of the rear main seal carrier with the groove for the oil pan gasket. Notice that there's a small rectangular hole at the end of the groove. This is plugged with a tab on the gasket, but it eventually leaks from this point.

Solution is to put a dab of gasket sealer on the block where the ends of both gaskets sit. Dielectric grease helps the gaskets stay in place during installation.

And at 173K miles, I suggest checking the rod bearings while you are in there as they usually need replacing at around 200K. Replace if any copper is showing. SHO Source has them.

 

[luigisho]

I hope it's the oil pan. As Nick posted above, if you have the gumption I would look at bearings if that is doable for you.

 

[GT94SHO]

It's almost certainly the oil pan seal, not the rear main. They rarely leak, but there's a design flaw when it comes to the oil pan.

The factory puts the seals in dry. They eventually get rock hard, exposing a design flaw in the engine. Pic shows the front edge of the rear main seal carrier with the groove for the oil pan gasket. Notice that there's a small rectangular hole at the end of the groove. This is plugged with a tab on the gasket, but it eventually leaks from this point.

Solution is to put a dab of gasket sealer on the block where the ends of both gaskets sit. Dielectric grease helps the gaskets stay in place during installation.

And at 173K miles, I suggest checking the rod bearings while you are in there as they usually need replacing at around 200K. Replace if any copper is showing. SHO Source has them.

View attachment 82366

Great info, thanks for your reply. I have a new set of Clevite rod bearings I bought years ago from RCM.

 

[GT94SHO]

It's almost certainly the oil pan seal, not the rear main. They rarely leak, but there's a design flaw when it comes to the oil pan.

The factory puts the seals in dry. They eventually get rock hard, exposing a design flaw in the engine. Pic shows the front edge of the rear main seal carrier with the groove for the oil pan gasket. Notice that there's a small rectangular hole at the end of the groove. This is plugged with a tab on the gasket, but it eventually leaks from this point.

Solution is to put a dab of gasket sealer on the block where the ends of both gaskets sit. Dielectric grease helps the gaskets stay in place during installation.

And at 173K miles, I suggest checking the rod bearings while you are in there as they usually need replacing at around 200K. Replace if any copper is showing. SHO Source has them.

View attachment 82366

That picture looks like the front timing cover oil pan interface, not the rear of the engine unless I'm thinking wrong. Regardless, the tab slot is probably similar on either end of engine.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

That almost looks like the front timing cover, not the rear of the engine unless I'm thinking wrong. Regardless, the tab slot is probably similar on either end of engine.

Somewhat similar, but I took the pic and it shows the rear main seal carrier, not the oil pump.

 

[GT94SHO]

Yep; understand...thanks again.

 

[GT94SHO]

Removed oil pan; found front and rear oil pan seals petrified, but did have a tan colored sealant in corners. Have replaced them with Fel-pro set and added sealant on corners, hoping for the best. Will update outcome.

Rod bearings were showing copper; upper halves moreso. Replaced them with Clevite std.

 

[GT94SHO]

Leaking at back corner now, not on end any more. Must have messed up my silicone getting the pan in place. With my car on ramps, the oil drain hole near back corner kept wetting the ******, even after cleaning and wiping. I think that oil spoiled my seal there.

 

[luigisho]

Could be. It's a tricky line it up with all the goop on it. Is there a way to get it level(ish) with jack and jackstands? Unless you are using 4 ramps and I have it pictured wrong.

 

[GT94SHO]

No, I only had front wheels on ramps last try. I will add jackstands in back to level things up this next, final attempt.

 

[luigisho]

If you have time to let it drip that might help. Good Luck!

 

[BaySHO Performance]

It's tough to get the oil pan seals in place during oil pan re-installation. I give them a coating of dielectric grease.

 

[GT94SHO]

It's tough to get the oil pan seals in place during oil pan re-installation. I give them a coating of dielectric grease.

First, I appreciate the responses here in the forum, very helpful. Finally finished after holidays. Also replaced rod and main bearings and #3 main shoes with crankshaft in place...a job. The Right Stuff worked well in conjunction with gaskets for #1 main and #4 main ends of oil pan.
No more oil leaks.
Note: Oil pressure switch is accessible from underneath with oil pan off and easier to get at than from topside reaching down blind. Cheap part...another common source of oil leaks