So what did you do to your SHO today!?

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Jordan_R

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Can you DM me the plug whenever you get a chance? thanks!
You just gotta go through me. Dude makes the brackets when I place an order through him lol. Don't worry I don't charge over cost LOL. Last set was $250 I believe and fits a 17" kirkey. @802SHO fit a different one than myself and I'll have to look up which part number seat I picked up but if you're interested I can give him a shout and he kind of does it at his leisure, but he's also 3 hours from me so depends when I go see family in that area.
 
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DadMobile

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You just gotta go through me. Dude makes the brackets when I place an order through him lol. Don't worry I don't charge over cost LOL. Last set was $250 I believe and fits a 34" kirkey. @802SHO fit a different one than myself and I'll have to look up which part number seat I picked up but if you're interested I can give him a shout and he kind of does it at his leisure, but he's also 3 hours from me so depends when I go see family in that area.

Cool Cool, I will hit you up when I get a bit closer to putting a race seat in.
 

GotGrip?

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It’s been a busy week! Got the AEM methanol kit installed, just waiting for the bung to arrive today then off to visit the welder.

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I went to the closest to me public scale and weighed the ole girl today. I did have to put some extra gas in the tank. The scale is about 25 miles away and I was 4 gallons till empty. I added 11 gallons which is about 88 lbs or so. I figured my “track weight” is about 4260-4280.

My plan was to remove the front seats and go with an aluminum seat just for the track but with the great news that we’ll be getting some aftermarket GPZ clutches from Raybestos I might just leave it as is?
203fd7743bf85606970962c213be12f1365283425dd2dbd655d87815f3d7d38c
A9f1dc888e76dced76f00d703189046a
I see you ran into the same problem I did, though I haven't started my install yet, I was putting everything together outside the car just to make sure I had everything. Sure enough, no bung or plug to mount that nozzle so I bought one that I can mount on a silicone coupler just to make my life a little easier.
 

802SHO

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Mine is a Kirky 38 series. It’s 17” wide. It’s puurrrfect. Track tech once tried to give me a hard time out of 3 trips to the track. First time...didn’t say a word. Second time the tech said...that’s just factory seat belt? Yeah....he then proceeded to attempt to show me...with force what would happen if the car jolted to a stop....slams my seat....lmfao...it didn’t budge. It uses the same 4 bolts from the factory seat..........its lighter but its solid....so after that odd and failed point he tried to prove...he said well you should have a 4 point seat belt at least....last time to the track same guy so I thought ...here we go...he didn’t say a word about it. The factory seat belt is attached to the new bracket and the seat just as OEM. To be honest it’s a head scratcher why it needs an after market seatbelt. D4F00457 ADDA 4BBF A9E5 01AD1710841A01542948 8AB4 44D2 9568 4A2991CEF33E512656FC 9C42 477C 80DF 2FFB2302CD228EF40EDD C2B9 41FC AC85 B9B251A9E07F9E160456 ECC2 4372 8771 E746538702BBDC28DC59 744E 40D9 92B4 C2B7905A24EE5FA4ED26 2491 4D5D 8941 70D6690B8670View attachment 1825801EB6E64 78C7 4CE6 9341 9DF17A712A86
 

DadMobile

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That seat looks pretty awesome. Sounds like the tech dude was power trippin lol. What was the total weight savings?
 

DadMobile

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Any tricks or advice? About to do the same to my car. Appreciate it


It was pretty simple tbh. I forgot to zip tie the brake lines to the strut tower and plastic coating got a little tore up on one of the brake lines. It’s all pretty straight forward make sure all the fittings are very tight and don’t forget to bleed the rear calipers.

* edit. You will want to get some 1/4” tubing to attach to the bleeder ****** to prevent brake fluid from squirting all over.
 

SHOMurph

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It was pretty simple tbh. I forgot to zip tie the brake lines to the strut tower and plastic coating got a little tore up on one of the brake lines. It’s all pretty straight forward make sure all the fittings are very tight and don’t forget to bleed the rear calipers.

* edit. You will want to get some 1/4” tubing to attach to the bleeder ****** to prevent brake fluid from squirting all over.
Aweomse thank you!
 

DadMobile

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Quick update on the Wilwood’s. They work great but squeal LOUD AF. It’s worse than fleet of garbage trucks stopping all once. Pad grease didn’t help at all. Im going to bevel the leading edge of the pads today and see if that works. Only the right side seems to squeal, if I can’t get it to stop I might have a set of Wilwood brakes for sale soon!
 

Ecoboost_xsport

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Quick update on the Wilwood’s. They work great but squeal LOUD AF. It’s worse than fleet of garbage trucks stopping all once. Pad grease didn’t help at all. Im going to bevel the leading edge of the pads today and see if that works. Only the right side seems to squeal, if I can’t get it to stop I might have a set of Wilwood brakes for sale soon!
I also beveled the brake pad edges, but did it when I first installed it, so not sure if it would've squealed without the bevel...
 
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Wsho

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Well it was a busy week yard work half the day then working on the car till 7:00 at night getting stuff accomplished. I got the dash all tore apart again everything's stripped down in the process of getting it vinyl wrapped black carbon fiber and white carbon fiber.

Little yard work sprucing things up. rototill this area in the front yard over two weeks ago no rush to finish do a little bit everyday. The car is more important Lol63908790501  1A593324 C667 4045 AB93 8E1480163537 IMG 1914
 

802SHO

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Well it was a busy week yard work half the day then working on the car till 7:00 at night getting stuff accomplished. I got the dash all tore apart again everything's stripped down in the process of getting it vinyl wrapped black carbon fiber and white carbon fiber.

Little yard work sprucing things up. rototill this area in the front yard over two weeks ago no rush to finish do a little bit everyday. The car is more important LolView attachment 18268 View attachment 18269
I love the gauges you put into the lower panel! Slick!
 

stripSHO

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Mine is a Kirky 38 series. It’s 17” wide. It’s puurrrfect. Track tech once tried to give me a hard time out of 3 trips to the track. First time...didn’t say a word. Second time the tech said...that’s just factory seat belt? Yeah....he then proceeded to attempt to show me...with force what would happen if the car jolted to a stop....slams my seat....lmfao...it didn’t budge. It uses the same 4 bolts from the factory seat..........its lighter but its solid....so after that odd and failed point he tried to prove...he said well you should have a 4 point seat belt at least....last time to the track same guy so I thought ...here we go...he didn’t say a word about it. The factory seat belt is attached to the new bracket and the seat just as OEM. To be honest it’s a head scratcher why it needs an after market seatbelt.
I mean, technically you're supposed to have a roll bar, a certified 5 point harness (expires every 2 years) and a fire jacket. These are basic safety rules all NHRA sanctioned tracks are supposed to enforce. You're already getting a free pass, so probably not in your best interest to develop a sour attitude toward them about it or you'll quickly find yourself a man with a race car and no track to run on. But also don't be surprised if the hammer falls hard anyway once you cross that 10.99 mark.

It's cool (and ballsy) that they ignore the safety rules for test and tune guys. That's not how it is everywhere though, and I even once had to throw out a 14 second car for having a roll bar he didn't even need, just because it was a pos human mouse trap and our track wasn't willing to take on that liability. So take this advice for what you paid for it, but when tech says you need something it's in your best interest to just get it instead of fight them on it. Remember, you're on private property and they can ****** you right the **** outta there at any time, for any reason. Bad attitudes used to get booted all the time at my track.

Sincerely,
former certified tech guy/fun governor
 

802SHO

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I mean, technically you're supposed to have a roll bar, a certified 5 point harness (expires every 2 years) and a fire jacket. These are basic safety rules all NHRA sanctioned tracks are supposed to enforce. You're already getting a free pass, so probably not in your best interest to develop a sour attitude toward them about it or you'll quickly find yourself a man with a race car and no track to run on. But also don't be surprised if the hammer falls hard anyway once you cross that 10.99 mark.

It's cool (and ballsy) that they ignore the safety rules for test and tune guys. That's not how it is everywhere though, and I even once had to throw out a 14 second car for having a roll bar he didn't even need, just because it was a pos human mouse trap and our track wasn't willing to take on that liability. So take this advice for what you paid for it, but when tech says you need something it's in your best interest to just get it instead of fight them on it. Remember, you're on private property and they can ****** you right the **** outta there at any time, for any reason. Bad attitudes used to get booted all the time at my track.

Sincerely,
former certified tech guy/fun governor
They do require me to have a fire jacket and check the expiration of my helmet, among the usual checks. I’ve had to leave and go buy pants before. I’ve never given them a hard time. What I think and what I say are two different things. I also don’t offer any information to them, rather I only answer any questions they may have. I’ve been going to the track regularly since 2018, I’m no stranger to the inspection at the track.

I still don’t understand why I would need a bar or harness in my particular case...unless the rule of thumb is aftermarket seat=aftermarket seatbelts.

I will “hopefully” no longer be allowed to play without a cage. I think it’s in the 10.8 range...I think you’re allowed slightly faster than 10.99 but not 100% sure but I know it’s either that or over 135mph in the quarter you need one. Unless it’s OEM fast.

But back to what I said...his example was dumb (hitting my seat) and yeah (I thought here we go) when I saw him again. But I do have a bad attitude if I need one. I’m one of those...I’m not an ******* I just treat ppl accordingly...types.
 

802SHO

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I mean, technically you're supposed to have a roll bar, a certified 5 point harness (expires every 2 years) and a fire jacket. These are basic safety rules all NHRA sanctioned tracks are supposed to enforce. You're already getting a free pass, so probably not in your best interest to develop a sour attitude toward them about it or you'll quickly find yourself a man with a race car and no track to run on. But also don't be surprised if the hammer falls hard anyway once you cross that 10.99 mark.

It's cool (and ballsy) that they ignore the safety rules for test and tune guys. That's not how it is everywhere though, and I even once had to throw out a 14 second car for having a roll bar he didn't even need, just because it was a pos human mouse trap and our track wasn't willing to take on that liability. So take this advice for what you paid for it, but when tech says you need something it's in your best interest to just get it instead of fight them on it. Remember, you're on private property and they can ****** you right the **** outta there at any time, for any reason. Bad attitudes used to get booted all the time at my track.

Sincerely,
former certified tech guy/fun governor
Kind of a weird flex @stripSHO. All that ^^^ bc you “used to be” a track tech? I didn’t feel like I got a free pass either...felt like I encountered a decent person. Like I said in my particular case it’s not needed. Glad them boys @NED don’t let their title of Track Tech go to their head. Some real good dudes
 

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