Wrapping intake pipe << Numbers are in

[SuperPete]

So if I wrap all the pre and post turbo pipes in 1/2" thick foam and heather heat tape on top, that will not stop them from heating up at the stop light and quick stops?
I think it will fix short stops heatsoaking,
I believe that kind of protection will keep pipes at ambien temp as outside air travel in the pipes and defend them from soaking up heat.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

What is your concern about air stagnation? As soon as you start moving and airflow picks up again the pipes will go back to normal temperature.

My hot pipes are cool to the touch even with the engine running. The air in the pipes is moving so fast there really is little affect from the outside temperatures.

Think of how a radiator or heat exchanger works, whether it be on your car, in the coil on your home's hvac unit, or any other refrigeration system. You have MULTIPLE passes along a bar and plate or fin and tube layout with constant airflow to keep temperatures at bay. A single pass has very little efficiency and as such doesn't have much if any effect on the fluid (or air in this case) inside the pipe/duct, as the specific fluid spends VERY LITTLE time in those pipes to be affected by ambient temperatures.

At WOT you are pushing 33,000 rpm on our turbos, pushing 45-50 #/min or nearly 700 cfm through a 2" diameter pipe. If you can sheild the cold side from the heat generated by the hot side turbos, you'd be a lot better off than trying to shield the pre-turbo ducting from radiant heat given off by the engine.

 

[SuperPete]

I watched the log and lets say I idle for 5 min, CAC temp goes from 40 to 90F, takes good 2-3 min of good fast driving to bring it down back to 40.
when you on track at the light ready to go 1/4 mile, you dont have that 2-3 min to cool down, correct?

 

[FiveLeeter918]

definitely shouldn't take that long, I've viewed well over over 50,000 logs in the past decade and when you punch the gas the intake temps drop to whatever the intercooler can sustain. These are IAT2 logs between the EPP and Airaid intake, both on the Gearhead Intercooler. As you can see, both are around the 130* point until the hit, then both track down to 112* within a few seconds.

Can you send me your log to [email protected]? I'd like to see what you're looking at.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

Here's another I literally just took while doing some logging for an HPTuners database update I'm pushing.

27* ambient outside. Sitting idle my IAT2 is 85 degrees. WOT and immediately on the hit my temps drop.

 

[SuperPete]

Here's another I literally just took while doing some logging for an HPTuners database update I'm pushing.

27* ambient outside. Sitting idle my IAT2 is 85 degrees. WOT and immediately on the hit my temps drop.

SO with 27F outside, how long will it take you to drop to say 40?
Here is what I was saying, I cruse down the highway 40 mi/h 30F Ambient,IAT2 at 34F
Stop at the light, 3 min later I am 70F IAT2, yes it takes 5 seconds to drop to 50, but I am no where near 34 I was at few min ago, and to recover back to 34 it's 3 min of highway driving and if I am in stop and go city driving, I will not see that 34 again until I hit highway again.

I believe and I soon we will find out if I am or not that proper pipes heat wrap/shield will stop pipes from heating up and idle heatsoak will be very minimal

 

[FiveLeeter918]

are you seeing a different performance benefit between 50F and 34F IAT2s? I'm not...

 

[FiveLeeter918]

SO with 27F outside, how long will it take you to drop to say 40?
Here is what I was saying, I cruse down the highway 40 mi/h 30F Ambient,IAT2 at 34F
Stop at the light, 3 min later I am 70F IAT2, yes it takes 5 seconds to drop to 50, but I am no where near 34 I was at few min ago, and to recover back to 34 it's 3 min of highway driving and if I am in stop and go city driving, I will not see that 34 again until I hit highway again.

I believe and I soon we will find out if I am or not that proper pipes heat wrap/shield will stop pipes from heating up and idle heatsoak will be very minimal

I'll be honest, I have a hard time believing that your IAT2 is within 4 degrees of ambient temperature. at 60mph my car has flatlined at 69*F, it's not going to go any colder.

Can you post a datalog to ensure that we are performing an apples to apples comparison?

 

[SuperPete]

I don't know, just saying. That's why I started this post to get an opinion from someone like you who knows stuff and seen benefits or not.
Open minded to any input and experience you guys have to bring in to this topic

 

[SM105K]

I'll be honest, I have a hard time believing that your IAT2 is within 4 degrees of ambient temperature. at 60mph my car has flatlined at 69*F, it's not going to go any colder.

Can you post a datalog to ensure that we are performing an apples to apples comparison?

The best I have seen in 34 ambient degree air is an IAT2 of 51 degrees.


IIRC correctly, Matt said that the GH IC usually runs 25 to 30 degrees warmer then ambient during all of his testing when the car is heat soaked. My testing confirmed it as well.

 

[JasonoftheRugar]

Funny this topic came up. I did this in 2015 Just after I bought my car. It was left over material from wrapping the LMS downpipes. The K&N was aluminum, so what the **** right?

 

[SuperPete]

In order to see actual measurable results all of the piping needs to be wrapped, they all absorb heat, just the intake pipe will not gain any results.

 

[802SHO]

Someone needs to make that damn manifold spacer

 

[SuperPete]

Someone needs to make that damn manifold spacer

AMEN!

 

[stripSHO]

Yeah I really see no point in studying temperatures under your hood while the car is parked in the garage. The measurements provide no indication of actual performance conditions. Take it to a track or dyno if you want to substantiate any gains. Me personally, I'm content in knowing that just based on available surface area that there's no appreciable heat transfer and therefore no appreciable gains to go chasing after.

You need to understand that the sensors in the car are very easily influenced by radiant heat. Air, on the other hand, is practically immune to it. So don't make the mistake of thinking the transient temps of heatsoaked intake pipes are at all indicative of actual air temps.

In other words - the temperature lag you see after a red light is the sensor catching up to the air temp, not so much the air suddenly getting colder.

 

[802SHO]

I used Reflectix roll insulation inside my air box of the Airaid intake. I have no clue if it helped or not but there was a thread over at EBPF where a member performed a test with the stock air box vs the Airaid. With this reflectix stuff he found a performance increase.

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3492.msg53170.html#msg53170

What SuperPete is after.....if he goes that extra mile and wraps everything, might prove beneficial. So far it hasn't shown much...but it's been a lot of stop and go driving Miss Daisy, but I understand that's just one part of these tests. To first show and document all the heat soaking going on. Which isnt new to anyone but a quality test needs a baseline...even if it's common knowledge. But he's not done. C'mon SuperPete. Keep going! I like what you're trying to do. Hopefully it DOES help and it IS beneficial......but I'm like these guys....I want to see performance benefits. Show me even a tenth or two off your quarter mile....could be the difference between a 11.08 and a 10.99 who knows!

 

[802SHO]

Oof! Maybe that's why I didn't seem to notice much, I only put the reflictix in, didn't do the foam around the top!!

 

[SuperPete]

I will complete my test, no issues there, not stopping until I prove ether way, if there are not benefits, no problem, at list I can check that off and call it good try.
I am thinking this weekend.
Here is what I was thinking to do.
I will record 10 min log (at fully heated up engine I drive 5 min city, stop and go, then idle 5 min to heatsoak and drive 5 min back in the city stop and go back home) without any heat protection, then I will wrap everything and do another log, same route same everything with all pipes wrapped up and we compare two logs and numbers.

To the box, YES, if wrapping pipes will show benefit, then wrapping box will be a benefit for sure.

It's coming

HOW ABOUT THAT? LOL

 

[SuperPete]

Oof! Maybe that's why I didn't seem to notice much, I only put the reflictix in, didn't do the foam around the top!!

TO how that tape works it need to be on outside, it has to reflect heat from penetrating in to the box material not trapping material heat between it and the tape, then heat already inside the box trapped between box and foam

 

[b4black]

because you are pushing the air through a turbocharger that is generating nearly 1100*F temperatures under normal operation, the air going into the turbo is negligible. what you want to cool is the air coming out of the turbo, which is where nitrous, meth and an intercooler come into play.

Air going in is important (not negligible). A 20° drop in incoming air will be 20° less coming out (turbo, IC, EGT). This is why we move air inlet out of the engine compartment. I do agree wrapping the intake piping isn't likely helpful. At speed, the residence time for air in this pipe is tiny.