2010 Bad Turbos?

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bpopilek

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So my 2019 is starting out really great! This morning I went to drive my 2010 SHO and heard some pinging sounds coming from the exhaust. The sounds went away within the first minute of running it. While driving it, I noticed stepping on the accelerator cause the RPMs to go very high before it would allow it to shift, but it was not accelerating very fast. I noticed a little bit extra white exhaust and did smell a little bit of burning oil, so I decided to investigate further. The car is producing no boost and there is an excessive amount of oil inside the exhaust tubing. Now while at an idol it’s just pumping out white smoke and any pushing of the accelerator pedal causes a ton of white smoke to pour out the exhaust.

So, for now I have shut her down and parked her in the car in the garage until I can get it fixed. The car has 140k miles on it, so I'm just looking for the best way to get her running reliably again without potentially ruining other components. What I would like some assistance with is determining whether or not to replace the turbos with stock units, upgraded turbos, or can these be rebuilt and still be reliable? Also, where is the best place to order either the rebuild kit or replacement turbos to get the best price and quality? Any help is greatly appreciated!


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StealBlueSho

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So my 2019 is starting out really great! This morning I went to drive my 2010 SHO and heard some pinging sounds coming from the exhaust. The sounds went away within the first minute of running it. While driving it, I noticed stepping on the accelerator cause the RPMs to go very high before it would allow it to shift, but it was not accelerating very fast. I noticed a little bit extra white exhaust and did smell a little bit of burning oil, so I decided to investigate further. The car is producing no boost and there is an excessive amount of oil inside the exhaust tubing. Now while at an idol it’s just pumping out white smoke and any pushing of the accelerator pedal causes a ton of white smoke to pour out the exhaust.

So, for now I have shut her down and parked her in the car in the garage until I can get it fixed. The car has 140k miles on it, so I'm just looking for the best way to get her running reliably again without potentially ruining other components. What I would like some assistance with is determining whether or not to replace the turbos with stock units, upgraded turbos, or can these be rebuilt and still be reliable? Also, where is the best place to order either the rebuild kit or replacement turbos to get the best price and quality? Any help is greatly appreciated!


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EPP has CHRA drop ins for the stock turbos if you want to rebuild them. I want to say they are $1600 which gets you two of them. That would be a way to go if you want upgraded for cheaper than ATPs. Gearhead might have some of their custom in house upgraded turbos, not sure on price.

Otherwise it’s off to the interwebs to find replacement stockers.


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bpopilek

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EPP has CHRA drop ins for the stock turbos if you want to rebuild them. I want to say they are $1600 which gets you two of them. That would be a way to go if you want upgraded for cheaper than ATPs. Gearhead might have some of their custom in house upgraded turbos, not sure on price.

Otherwise it’s off to the interwebs to find replacement stockers.

I did a quick eBay check and found some used ones and some rebuilt ones. Looks like $800 each seems to be the average price I've found. But I will certainly check those options you mentioned to see what I can find there. Thank you.



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bpopilek

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cheaper oem from online dealer i think. 600 ea comes to mind?

Thanks, I'll check that out too. I did find a upgrade rebuild kit for 2 for around $600. Not sure the difficulty in doing that route.


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Scott Milligan

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bpopilek

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I finally got some time to start tearing this down yesterday, and after a couple hours I had the front turbo completely out and all the rest of the tubing to the back turbo removed. I just went out to look at what is involved with getting the backside out, and I am open to any advice or information. From what I can see, I’m going to need to remove the passenger side tire and driveshaft in order to make enough room to unbolt it and pull it down. Is that the best way?

From what I can see on the front one, it actually looks to probably be ok. However, I'm only doing this once, so both are getting replaced/rebuilt at the same time.


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Scott Milligan

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I finally got some time to start tearing this down yesterday, and after a couple hours I had the front turbo completely out and all the rest of the tubing to the back turbo removed. I just went out to look at what is involved with getting the backside out, and I am open to any advice or information. From what I can see, I’m going to need to remove the passenger side tire and driveshaft in order to make enough room to unbolt it and pull it down. Is that the best way?

From what I can see on the front one, it actually looks to probably be ok. However, I'm only doing this once, so both are getting replaced/rebuilt at the same time.


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I pulled the subframe with the engine as an assembly. Took me about 4 hours to remove the sub frame. I have a lift which makes it easier. If you figure out how to replace the rear without removing the engine please let me know. I have a rear turbo oil feed line leaking I suspect because I reused the gaskets. Be sure to get new oil and coolant gaskets and torque them good.

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bpopilek

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I pulled the subframe with the engine as an assembly. Took me about 4 hours to remove the sub frame. I have a lift which makes it easier. If you figure out how to replace the rear without removing the engine please let me know. I have a rear turbo oil feed line leaking I suspect because I reused the gaskets. Be sure to get new oil and coolant gaskets and torque them good.

Thanks for the tip. I had planned on getting all new gaskets for everything. And unfortunately with it being winter, i don't have as much space to work on it. Especially not enough to drop the subframe. I've got a one car garage that I can heat up, but barely enough room to park the car in there with all of my tools and such. I did climb under and look at it a couple days ago. I thought I could get it out by removing the passenger side drive shaft and then the catalytic converter to make enough room. This was my assessment after only a few minutes though. Is it not possible this way? If the subframe has to come out, then this is going to end up sitting until it's warm out.


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Scott Milligan

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Thanks for the tip. I had planned on getting all new gaskets for everything. And unfortunately with it being winter, i don't have as much space to work on it. Especially not enough to drop the subframe. I've got a one car garage that I can heat up, but barely enough room to park the car in there with all of my tools and such. I did climb under and look at it a couple days ago. I thought I could get it out by removing the passenger side drive shaft and then the catalytic converter to make enough room. This was my assessment after only a few minutes though. Is it not possible this way? If the subframe has to come out, then this is going to end up sitting until it's warm out.


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Alldata says remove subframe but I have heard guys say they removed downpipe, axle,disconnected dog bone mounts, pulled fwd with ratchet strap and got the turbo out. It looks like it would be really tight.

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bpopilek

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Alldata says remove subframe but I have heard guys say they removed downpipe, axle,disconnected dog bone mounts, pulled fwd with ratchet strap and got the turbo out. It looks like it would be really tight.

I can deal with tight of I have to! Hehe Thanks for the extra info!


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bpopilek

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Unfortunately, this has been a very slow process. Between getting all of the new parts and finding the time needed to work on this, my poor car hasn't been able to run since new years.

Where I'm at is as follows. I ended up trailering it to my buddy's house because he has a larger heated garage. In the end, we did have to drop the subframe to make it easier to get at the back turbo. Upon tearing them apart we found that the front turbo was on its way out, but the back turbo was toast. I was surprised to find that the shaft inside had snapped into 3 pieces! Luckily the housings were not damaged and were reusable. Because I've already got too much money tied up in this car, I decided to try and save some money by rebuilding them. I ordered a rebuild kit from CR Performance off of eBay.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/123307357574

Additionally, I ordered new lines and a complete Mahle gasket kit from RockAuto. Currently I have cleaned everything up really well and fully rebuilt both turbos. They now spin prefectly and should work great once I can get them reinstalled in the car.

I could use some additional help from you guys. I'm having difficulty in locating a replacement wastegate. One of them is in good condition and works fine. The other is sprung open and unusable. I have searched online but I've been unable to find a part number on this. Are both wastegates the same part? I appreciate any additional assistance you can provide. Thank you!

F1f1674162e984efb135c3e5a3ff9439

8d0fd03ae67d7ee04ae260163a83942a


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limited02

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jman1200

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Following this thread.
I'd love to see a "how to" write up, take lots of pics !
 

Scott Milligan

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Village ford sells factory turbos for $420. I just bought 2. Theres a $250 core charge.

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Yep ,village Ford. They have the best prices and great service. Be aware however that I had to reuse my old hot section as the mount was different. It just pops off to swap. I think I got an mkz turbo. Have them send a pic to verify yours is identical.

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bpopilek

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And for the wastegates, maybe step up to something new would be better? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbosmart...7:g:RMsAAOSwLx1avUD0:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

Is there a difference between the 2010 SHO I have and the 2013? These do not show that they are compatible for older than 2013. I'm not opposed to replacing both of these as well with upgraded parts. I just don't want to get something that isn't going to work in the end. Thanks!


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