New Engine?

[4sfed]

So, I get to take apart my engine. My brother (who has rebuilt countless engines) is going to help me out with a new water pump, timing chain and inspecting/replacing bearings and looking at the turbos. It sounds daunting, but he says it is not as bad is it seems. I'm excited to get in there and learn a thing or two.

Awesome! Honestly, enjoy the process. You're about to embark on a process boat of won't get to. And who knows... While you're in there, you might find more "stuff" to do.


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[4sfed]

...embark on a process boat of won't get to.

...embark on a process MOST of won't get to.

...stupid auto-correct.

 

[4sfed]

...embark on a process MOST of won't get to./QUOTE]

...embark on a process most of US won't get to.

...stupid fingers.

 

[Deuce5150]

I will. Luckily, my wife is currently on maternity leave, so we can get away with one car while this gets done.

Yay fire breathing minivan.

 

[luigisho]

Good luck and report back. There will be others who have to deal with this issue. This thread will be archived so a search will bring it up and any updates will help others in the future

 

[Deuce5150]

Thank you and will do. I ordered what I believe to be all the parts I need. I should have them all by next Friday.

 

[Sincitysho]

FYI....I have a 2011 SHO. Same issue at 88,000 miles. Had 100,000 warranty so Ford replaced everything, engine and turbos.

 

[RandR10]

I wouldn't hold out much hope for the engine not being damaged in some way. I once had an engine that had a puncture in the oil filter run without oil pressure for only about 15 seconds before I shut it off and it spun a bearing. This was at start up and idle when it lost oil pressure, so no high revs or high load.

 

[KyngofPop]

The water pump being chain driven has turned me away from considering one of thes cars. Water pumps are maintenance items that need to be accessible and not only when it’s time to do an engine rebuild. Wtf Ford

 

[Deuce5150]

This weekend is the time I'm really going to get into it. Regarding the turbos - Is it likely they are damaged? I'd like to avoid digging them out of there if I can. I had the coolant/oil mix in the front turbo supply line. I haven't gotten to the rear yet. I'm just wondering if I can get away with not pulling them out.

 

[Jeff2017]

I plan to get rid of mine b4 80k mile. I only do 7k miles a year so 11 years should do it.

 

[SHOdded]

Maintenance is by time/distance, and those numbers get shortened if the car is tuned.
=====
Deuce, oil lubricates bearings. Bearings do not like coolant. Turbos run HOT. That said, at least the problem is restricted to the front turbo which is about a 2 hour jobbie if you need to do it. If the blades look good, there is no wobble, etc. the chances are good you are OK ... for now. If you do replace the turbo, replace the oil and coolant feed lines AND screens/gaskets.

Change the oil and coolant at least a couple of times in short succession AFTER you have everything up n running. I would even sample the oil each time and send it in to Blackstone, make sure it is free of coolant contamination as well as metal wear. Do NOT use oils that contain high levels of sodium becoz that will spike the punch. Luckily only a select few oils have this issue.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...BhMh9D5vpX0VhLZrmVdLyFnbE/edit#gid=1379600026
http://pqiamerica.com/PCMO_Sample_Summary_12_15_2016.html

Use of updated engine coolants (usually PEAK is the best aftermarket) will help with the cooling system as they are typically silicate, phosphate, borate, nitrite and amine free.

 

[Deuce5150]

That is good information. Thank you.

We got it mostly apart last weekend. The bearings look good as well as head gaskets. I just need to remove the timing components and water pump. Then it is reassembly time. I was planning on replacing both the primary and secondary timing chains while I'm in there, which leads me to another question:

Are the bolts holding the camshaft sprockets torque to yield? I'm struggling to find out for sure if I need to replace the bolts when putting things back together.

Thanks!

 

[SHOdded]

I would assume use new bolts anyway, T2Y or not. But for a 2011, this is what the manual notes

1. NOTE: The VCT bolt and the exhaust camshaft bolt must be discarded and new ones installed. However, the exhaust camshaft washer is reusable.
   
   Remove and discard the LH/RH VCT assembly bolt and the LH/RH exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt.
   • Remove the LH/RH VCT assembly, secondary timing chain and the LH/RH exhaust camshaft sprocket as an assembly.

 

[rubydist]

fyi, the installation instructions will let you know if the bolts are torque to yield - if so, you will be instructed to torque the bolts to a certain value, back them off, torque to a lower number and then turn them an additional quarter turn.

 

[SHOdded]

To confirm ruby's statement:

1. Install the new VCT bolt and new exhaust camshaft bolt and the original washer. Tighten in 4 stages.
   • Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
   • Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
   • Stage 3: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
   • Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.