Killing Alternator's - Hot days, long rides

[dmltml]

For the last 3 years the first time it gets above 90 and I take a 3-4 hour road trip, I **** my Alternator. Yes these have been from a big box store and everyone says this is the issue. I have no problem buying a new alternator from Shosource or other option, I just want one that won't die when the engine gets hot. My temp gauge never goes higher than M and acts normal, the fans work as expected. Anyone have any experience with this?

 

[zoomlater]

Have you tried the lifetime warranty ones from NAPA. I usually get at least two years out of them

 

[rubydist]

my experience as well - the only ones that last are the NAPA lifetime warranty ones.

 

[zak]

I've slowly learned to rebuild them - changing bearings, brushes and regulators isn't that hard (in fact the brushes and regulator are integrated). Look for the regulators that are used on the custom high amp alternators, by their max amperage specifications, or buy genuine Ford regulators (they come in different color combos). ANother thing to do is buy very low mileage OEM alternators from another Ford G3 application from a recycler and swap the housing out to get the ears in the right place.

 

[itwonder]

The 90 amp Mitsubishi is very reliable according to my starter/alternator guy. He went through mine at 175K, and it needed only a cleaning. The brushes were less than 1/2 worn, but he replaced them just because. He said the bearings rarely fail. You might try finding an unmolested one of those and have a good local shop go through it.

 

[dmltml]

Still struggling with this. Can anyone tell me where the black wire that is on the 3 wire clip that plugs into the alternator goes? I was trying to replace the 3 wire clip and after I cut the old plug off and tried to strip the old wires to splice them, the black wire came completely out. It had like less than an 8th of end end stripped on the end that was in the wrapped wire bundle. I carefully cut away the wrapping and can not figure out what it was attached to. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Blacks are almost always ground. I will find my EVTM and look it up for you.

Tom

 

[Off Road SHO]

According to the EVTM, on 92-95 SHO's the black wire just ends in the wiring harness, goes to nothing.

Tom

 

[rubydist]

that is correct, only 2 of those 3 wires are actually used.

 

[dmltml]

Thanks guys. Does anyone have an OEM Mitsubishi Alternator for sale? Ford no longer sells an alternator for this car.

I replaced the alternator plug and made sure all grounds and the power wire from the alternator to the starter is all tight and in good shape. The connection on the started was not loose but I could tighten it just a 1/4 turn or so. Not sure what is blowing the regulators on these alternators when the engine gets hot. Looking for help.

 

[SHOdded]

You have checked the wiring thoroughly? Corrosion is not uncommon. There is a wire that runs across the radiator (don't recall which one) in particular that I would look at. Sounds like it is barely hanging on.

 

[sperold]

I would get a genuine Ford branded alternator by putting an add in the "Wanted to Buy" section. I did this about 8 years ago and it ended my issues with the 90 amp alternators.
I went so far as to get the brackets necessary for the upgraded 94 - 95 alternator replacement, but never had to do it.
Mine worked well right out the shipping box, but I was lucky, I guess.

Go to a rural, outlying area if you are city bound. There are a huge variety of farm tractors, each with unusual starters and alternators and generators (pre 1965) and even positive ground 6V systems.

There will be a local garage that services all this stuff, and they will be very good at rebuilding your alternator. Ask around, there is always one place that everyone identifies as the best place to deal with. Usually the invitation to get electrical work done is painted permanently on the front window glass.

 

[Devin]

We have a motor shop around here that I had rebuild mine after the last failure. I just paid them to do it and disregarded the warranty. Been a few years, and has been sitting around a lot too but works every time I start her up.

 

[dmltml]

Thanks, I found a good electrical motor shop, can't find a good OEM voltage regulator. I have a few feelers out there.

 

[zoomlater]

We have a motor shop around here that I had rebuild mine after the last failure. I just paid them to do it and disregarded the warranty. Been a few years, and has been sitting around a lot too but works every time I start her up.

Which shop is it, I have a 95 MTX alternator I need to have worked on

 

[Devin]

I linked it in my post

 

[zoomlater]

thanks!

 

[dmltml]

Well, I drove 3.5 hours to Goldsboro NC and back this week and for the first time in 3 years (July or August) , the car did not breakdown! So excited. I changed 4 things. A new alternator 3 wire connecting harness, an additional heavy duty ground wire to from the battery to the body, a very minor tightening of the main red wire from the battery to the starter and what I think fixed the problem is I put in a 160 degree thermostat. My car now runs at "A" when hot and not M to M+. Looking at my records, the last thing I changed prior to the alternator and actually fuel pump failures was the thermostat. I put in a normal 180 degree but it appears to be to high for the NC summer heat. At least on my car. Anyone drinking this cool-aid?