Running hot and rainy day woes

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

04lss

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
127
Reaction score
20
That's a crappy situation there. But if you're going to fix the issues and the value has tanked, why not keep it and enjoy it?
Depends on how the car does. I don't trust it, and im getting close to the point where im done with it. If I fix it and it runs right and has the power it should, then ill re-evaluate.


The part I don't get is how my intercooler could have damaged the turbo. Especially only one turbo.
 

04lss

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
127
Reaction score
20
I just thought of something. I checked the intercooler after I bought the car. I took off the plastic piece on the driver side where the turbos feed in. I used an inspection camera and it was clean to the best I could tell. When it was put back on the gasket/seal wouldn't stay in so we used some RTV silicone to hold it in. Im betting this is the glue. But beyond this ... The intercooler comes after the turbos... if its not leaking boost I see no way it could damage one.
 

SilverSH0

SHO Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Messages
896
Reaction score
827
Just curious, which turbo is damaged? Front turbo (also called left turbo) or rear turbo (right turbo)?
 

04lss

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
127
Reaction score
20
I asked to talk to the tech when I went to pick up the car, but he wasn't in. He is supposed to call me today. Since most likely ill be fixing it myself, I want some clarifications. I think the glue they found was the RTV holding the gasket in place from when I inspected the IC back in early july. If that's what they found then im not replacing the IC. I also want to know why the Turbo isn't being warrantied, the service writer didn't know.
 

04lss

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
127
Reaction score
20
No response from the tech, but after driving the car again, i remain convinced there is also an issue with the trans. Its just getting lost and blamed on other issues. Makes me hesitant to cancel the warty. As far as the frame being bent it makes sense why the car acts odd at high speeds, but it doesnt explain the variable nature of the car pulling to the left one day and not the next. I guess i have to take these issue one at a time. Ive come to terms that im stuck with the fat beast.
 

04lss

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
127
Reaction score
20
This is going to be a long post, partly because i need to rant a little. here's a TLDR: Tune ruined my turbo, warranty wont cover it, I'm cancelling the warranty. The selling dealer wont answer the phone
I'm done playing nice, I'm reporting them to various parties.



Finally got an update from the latest dealer.

The turbo failed because the car was tuned, and this put extra strain on the turbo. The warranty will not cover it. I was assured by the seller after i found out the car was modified that the warranty would cover it despite the tune. Clearly this was not true. Yeah i know ,it depends on the dealer, but what good is a warranty that is only valid at a dealer i don't trust, that is 70 miles from my house.
I tried calling the dealer yesterday, I have the GM's cell number (because they never answer phones) straight to voicemail. Called the service department, 3 times.
never got through. Last week, i called and left a message with the service department (to tell them i found out what was wrong and asked them to call me). never got a response. Im tired of playing games with this dealer. I'm going to cancel my service contract. It has been completely useless. The only thing its done is replace an Oil pressure sensor. it wont replace: my cruise control sensor, my inter-cooler, my turbo, my down pipes, or correct why the car pulls to the left at times, why it rides funny. a mechanic sees the car, sees collision damage and mods and immediately goes to that being the cause of whatever failure, the warranty is useless to me. I have also been told that dealers get a "Contract Rate" for work done under these warranties, so if they are busy they are reluctant to do this work. I don't know the validity of this however.

As for the dealer, I'm done, I'm calling ford corporate, and open a complaint against the dealer. i have a laundry list over 10 items long worth of complaints.
In my state our cars have to be safety inspected, yearly. We also have to have a front license plate, if you don't at least have the mounting points for one, the car cannot pass inspection. The dealer passed my car. (My Father is a certified inspector) You can get a ticket for not having a front plate, and i have nowhere to mount mine. I was assured by the seller they would add the mounting plate when i came back. I had the car in 3 separate times and even asked them to do it. Never happened. So, i will be reporting that to the state police who manage the program. Then I'll be reporting them to the state dealer board because i never received a copy of half my paperwork. (purchase guide, we owe, etc)
To be clear, I do not expect this to get me anywhere, I'm stuck with the car as it is, and its my problem now. However, they need to be reported, maybe it will help prevent this from happening to someone else in the future. For extra points, I'm going to throw the "I'm a college student" angle at them as well.




Here's what I'm reporting them to ford for.

  • Selling me a car they knew was modded/tune without telling me
  • Selling me a car with structural damage when i was told there wasn't ( i was assured that any pre inspection by a dealer should have realized this)
  • not giving me my we owe/purchase guide with my paper work ( i should have checked yes, but they still are required to give a copy)
  • Not doing a pre-inspection of the car before issuing the warranty
  • Loosing the dealer copy of the we owe
  • never answering the phone, i tried calling the finance manager 3-4 times a day for 3 days before i had to call ford corporate and have them call the dealer
  • Never answering or responding to messages
  • The dealer never realizing the car had these issue any of the times i brought it in
  • The dealer giving me a car back that was almost unsafe to drive and not telling i probably shouldn't drive it. (It was de-tuned and running a 3 bar map, wouldn't idle right, barely started, didn't shift right. The dealer that had it immediately before, that i suspect did the de-tuning, told me it was unsafe to drive in that state. )
  • The dealer swearing they couldn't find anything wrong with the car when two other dealers say its a "pile"
  • never applying the license plate bracket which is required by state law
  • fraudulent inspection sticker
  • Telling me the car would be covered by the warranty even though it was tuned
  • They told me i was buying a car in good condition that had a warranty that would cover any issues that could develop
    they sold me a car with collision and structural damage, that my warranty wont touch.
  • I have had two other dealerships tell me they feel sorry for me, and that the seller should just take that car back.


Again sorry for the long post.
 

BoatSHO

SHO Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
170
Reaction score
150
Location
SE Michigan
Not that it matters much, but is this a legit Ford Dealer or mega CarMax style that you bought the car from? Or one of those small used lots on the side of the road? I am guessing small place? I've never heard of a Ford dealer refusing to answer the phones....

Wow, this is just crazy. It sounds like one of those freaky situations where undercover reporters find that cars flooded (that were flooded in hurricanes, etc) are being sold in other parts of the Country with "doctored" CarFax's.

I mean there is probably no chance I would even want to keep that car after all this. And now that you have structural damage, like you said - how do you even sell it once you have the engine/turbo/trans issues fixed? I would either push for that dealer to take the vehicle back (buyback?) using Ford Corporate as leverage... or see if Ford Corporate would be willing to work a trade for a new lease or something. Unless you want to lose all your money up front. But if you lease something for let's say 2 years, at least you can have the noose off your neck in 24 months and then start back at step 1 with a purchase. Without being out all that money up front. Keep us posted, I am following and hoping everything still works out for you! :frown:
 

04lss

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
127
Reaction score
20
This is a legitimate Ford Dealer, granted its probably one of the smallest operations ive seen. The parts and service writer are the same guy.
I just wrote out a condensed version of all my grievances, in a word doc, its 3 pages long. Im only 22 so i cant lease yet, from what i understand, and honestly after this experience i dont know if id even want another ford product. Which i guess is a huge loss for ford, because i have another 40-50 years worth of car buying ahead of me.
 

04lss

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
127
Reaction score
20
So, i received my response from Ford Corporate, It was about as helpful as ive come to expect ford to be. I guess i move on to the Virginia motor dealer board, and the bbb




Hello Matthew,




My name is Patricia; I’m from Ford’s Customer Relationship Center (CRC). I’ve reviewed your email about the concerns on your 2011 Ford Taurus, and your request for a buyback or for the vehicle to be repaired by Leckner Ford. I can see how this can be frustrating, and I’ll be happy to document your feedback.




Given the age and mileage of your vehicle, Ford will not replace or repurchase your vehicle. However, I’ll be happy to document your dealer experience.




If you get your vehicle repaired, I recommend keeping your original receipt in the event a recall or customer satisfaction is released in the future. Also, remember repairs done at a Ford Dealer come with a 24 months/unlimited miles warranty.




Thank you for providing Ford Motor Company with your comments, as they are valuable to us. Your dealer experience has been documented.




Thank you for contacting Ford Motor Company.
 

SHOdded

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2011
Messages
9,045
Reaction score
4,390
Location
Maryland
Yeah ... not helpful at all. Tho to be fair, Ford only exercises supervision over a dealership "indirectly". Dealerships are their own entities. Good luck with the VA board and the BBB. Are you choosing to do this without an attorney?
 

04lss

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
127
Reaction score
20
Yeah ... not helpful at all. Tho to be fair, Ford only exercises supervision over a dealership "indirectly". Dealerships are their own entities. Good luck with the VA board and the BBB. Are you choosing to do this without an attorney?

Ive left messages at multiple lawyers offices without reply. Honestly, at this point I don't have the cash to get a lawyer. Im 22, so my reserves aren't seriously established. That's the reason I sprung for the warranty on the car.
 

BoatSHO

SHO Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
170
Reaction score
150
Location
SE Michigan
I don't mean to state the obvious here... but I will. I know you said you are 60 miles away - but if your car is driveable... Have you ever thought you should just drive up there and talk to someone? (Seems how they are screening your calls) What is your timetable on all of this happening? If I had bought a car from a dealer, thinking that the was clean (never in accident) and was in great shape.... then all of this happened and you found out it was wrecked. Like yes, the dealer is in serious breach of contract. But what is the timetable? Is this within months you found out this info? Or has it been 12 months or more?

I mean, it's hard to tell based on 1-side of the story (and that you are only 22 - shouldn't matter, but it may) what is really going on. Like did the dealer communicate anything to you ahead of time? Did you know it was in an accident? Did you know anything about the car other than a quick test drive? Did you get a CarFax?

I see it as two ways this can go and/or went down: (probably more options than this) One - your naive and had sucker written on your forehead (no offense) and got taken to the cleaners by a shady dealer. Like you had nothing in writing, No carfax, no anything. And now you may be stuck with this car. -OR- Two - you were provided all of this documentation on a clean car, you were buying what you thought to be a mildly used but in awesome condition used vehicle and within X amount of time (see timetable question above) the car just begins to completely breakdown and become a lemon. In scenario #2, I would say you absolutely have a case against the dealer. But if it's scenario one, I would just say it's an expensive life lesson (live and learn). Fix it and dump it. Go find something else.

I mean, not picking on you (or anyone else!) but if you can't afford a core charge on a turbo of $250 or whatever. You probably don't need to be driving a Taurus SHO. I know it's everyone's right to buy what they want and I fully believe that. But my advice is - if you can't afford to spring for the core charge on some parts. Just hold off on the SHO...wait until later in life when your financial circumstances have changed, you have more income...then go buy a nice Sports car or sports sedan. Oh well rant over.

Let my flaming begin :p
 

SHOdded

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2011
Messages
9,045
Reaction score
4,390
Location
Maryland
I'd think since a Ford dealer sold this vehicle, reparations absolutely need to be made in some form (refund, takeback, something). Used car dealers, yeah, you gotta really look thru the history for sure. I have found unbelievable prices on cars I wanted to buy, only to discover the heartbreaking truth upon researching.
 

04lss

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
127
Reaction score
20
I don't mean to state the obvious here... but I will. I know you said you are 60 miles away - but if your car is driveable... Have you ever thought you should just drive up there and talk to someone? (Seems how they are screening your calls) What is your timetable on all of this happening? If I had bought a car from a dealer, thinking that the was clean (never in accident) and was in great shape.... then all of this happened and you found out it was wrecked. Like yes, the dealer is in serious breach of contract. But what is the timetable? Is this within months you found out this info? Or has it been 12 months or more?

I mean, it's hard to tell based on 1-side of the story (and that you are only 22 - shouldn't matter, but it may) what is really going on. Like did the dealer communicate anything to you ahead of time? Did you know it was in an accident? Did you know anything about the car other than a quick test drive? Did you get a CarFax?

I see it as two ways this can go and/or went down: (probably more options than this) One - your naive and had sucker written on your forehead (no offense) and got taken to the cleaners by a shady dealer. Like you had nothing in writing, No carfax, no anything. And now you may be stuck with this car. -OR- Two - you were provided all of this documentation on a clean car, you were buying what you thought to be a mildly used but in awesome condition used vehicle and within X amount of time (see timetable question above) the car just begins to completely breakdown and become a lemon. In scenario #2, I would say you absolutely have a case against the dealer. But if it's scenario one, I would just say it's an expensive life lesson (live and learn). Fix it and dump it. Go find something else.

I mean, not picking on you (or anyone else!) but if you can't afford a core charge on a turbo of $250 or whatever. You probably don't need to be driving a Taurus SHO. I know it's everyone's right to buy what they want and I fully believe that. But my advice is - if you can't afford to spring for the core charge on some parts. Just hold off on the SHO...wait until later in life when your financial circumstances have changed, you have more income...then go buy a nice Sports car or sports sedan. Oh well rant over.

Let my flaming begin :p

I understand this is a ridiculous scenario and it seems off that the dealer would do this.
I will admit, moving forward there were one or two warning signs that if i ever see in the future are deal killers. But i have purchased cars with similar signs in the past and they turned out to be fantastic.


I have been to the dealer on three separate occasions JUST to talk to them. I even met with the general manager, and discussed the issues. He was "Horrified" and said he would fix things, then the service department proceeded to not find anything wrong. I bought the car on june 25th, and as soon as my warranty kicked in i took it to a local dealer. Who then said it was wrecked and not cover-able. The last diagnosis happened in late august. i tried contacting the dealer no response. All issues found within two months.

On the accident issue, well its complicated, here is where i should have walked away. The Car Fax said the car had been in an accident but that there was No Structural Damage. This i figured was a minor accident. I should have walked away, but i figured it was a non issue since the car looked great.
What i have been told is that there is most certainly structural damage, ranging from damage to the intercooler, the adaptive cruise sensor, and even a bent subframe. To me this is a breach as it was clearly stated no structural damage. This damage also renders those parts void of my warranty.

The dealer, or at least their service department clearly knew the car had been extensively modified. (3bar map, DP, tune ). This information was never ventured by anyone. even after i purchased the car i had to ASK the service department to check it for a tune. Then i was told they didn't need to check they knew it was modified. as Ive said before i never would have purchased it had i known this was the case. I staunchly avoid modified cars.

I did have a car fax, I did get things in writing, (the dealer actually lost my we owe, and the purchase guide), My mistake was not making sure i had a copy of everything. In fact to highlight the dealer in this, they actually forgot to have me sign a piece of my loan documentation, had to have me come back to do it. My bank almost revoked my loan. This is not my first rodeo, ive bought from 5 different dealerships. I checked the car fax before i even went to see the car, everything looked fine, besides the accident but as i said, it said no structural damage. I did my resarch i found KBB values, Blackbook values NADA values, competitive prices from other dealers (who were much further away ). I looked up parts costs for things like transmissions, axles and other parts that i read commonly failed. I checked the tires, i looked underneath for leaks, i opened the oil filler cap and checked for gunk, i stuck my head under the car while it was running.



As to the core charge on the turbo, I spent a bunch of cash on the down payment two months ago, Ive spent close to $500 on the car since then on things like diagnostic fees, getting the oil pressure sensor replaced, and having to drive back and forth to the dealer. Add in vacation season and the fact that without the core charge replacing the turbo would cost 750, and with a core charge $1000, its a fairly expensive repair. All in all with the Down payment, the already done repairs, and the turbo replacement id be spending close to $2400 over two and a half months I would say that its not unreasonable to become strapped at this point I also needed to have it done this week, as my father is on vacation, so no time to save. I have savings and i could get the turbo replaced, but there is a limit to how much im willing to eat into my savings, especially for a car that i just want to be rid of now.
 

04lss

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
127
Reaction score
20
I'd think since a Ford dealer sold this vehicle, reparations absolutely need to be made in some form (refund, takeback, something). Used car dealers, yeah, you gotta really look thru the history for sure. I have found unbelievable prices on cars I wanted to buy, only to discover the heartbreaking truth upon researching.


I really think it comes down to the fact that i spent what would be fair market price for a 5 year old car that is in good condition. I purchased from a ford dealer, that is supposed to inspect their cars and sell quality vehicles. This is not what i received and neither the dealer nor FOMOCO have taken any actions to rectify the situation.


At this point i have given up on any hope of a resolution. Im stuck with the car, and im going to repair it until its hopefully driveable.
That said, I am going to continue reporting this to the proper bodies. There are a few things the dealer did that bring up questions of legality. Such as not providing me with a copy of the buyers guide federal law: 16 C.F.R 455, and also failing to put on a front license plate.


Here is a bit of a rant
apples to oranges every cars different, I know, this is just me ranting.
Ive had 15+ year old $400 cars that i towed home and fixed for less money than ive spent in service fees and parts on this Ford. And they have been far more reliable.
For example a 97 Grand prix GTP, 235k miles, bought for 700, put 300 in and drove it for 4 months without issue. Now my father has it and drives it.
a 2002 Grand prix GTP $400 rebuilt the heads, new radiator, new coolant lines, new headlights, Aftermarket headers and dowpipe, Valvetrain upgrades and a tuner. ALL cost me less than the bill so far on the SHO.
That my $14,000 5 year old car wiht 87k has been less reliable is a complete disgrace to the dealer that sold it and to Ford. my 2001 KIA sportage with 200k miles was more reliable than this ford has been . my fathers 1994 camaro v6 that blows smoke and leaks oil with 200k miles is more reliable. Heck hes spent less money in the entire car, than i have in diagnostic fees, and he drives it every day.
I didnt buy my SHO to be a DD, Thankfully i have my jetta, but the dealer tried to get me to trade that in. If i had id be up a %%%% creak right now without a paddle.
 

SilverSH0

SHO Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Messages
896
Reaction score
827
I understand this is a ridiculous scenario and it seems off that the dealer would do this.
I will admit, moving forward there were one or two warning signs that if i ever see in the future are deal killers. But i have purchased cars with similar signs in the past and they turned out to be fantastic.


I have been to the dealer on three separate occasions JUST to talk to them. I even met with the general manager, and discussed the issues. He was "Horrified" and said he would fix things, then the service department proceeded to not find anything wrong. I bought the car on june 25th, and as soon as my warranty kicked in i took it to a local dealer. Who then said it was wrecked and not cover-able. The last diagnosis happened in late august. i tried contacting the dealer no response. All issues found within two months.

On the accident issue, well its complicated, here is where i should have walked away. The Car Fax said the car had been in an accident but that there was No Structural Damage. This i figured was a minor accident. I should have walked away, but i figured it was a non issue since the car looked great.
What i have been told is that there is most certainly structural damage, ranging from damage to the intercooler, the adaptive cruise sensor, and even a bent subframe. To me this is a breach as it was clearly stated no structural damage. This damage also renders those parts void of my warranty.

The dealer, or at least their service department clearly knew the car had been extensively modified. (3bar map, DP, tune ). This information was never ventured by anyone. even after i purchased the car i had to ASK the service department to check it for a tune. Then i was told they didn't need to check they knew it was modified. as Ive said before i never would have purchased it had i known this was the case. I staunchly avoid modified cars.

I did have a car fax, I did get things in writing, (the dealer actually lost my we owe, and the purchase guide), My mistake was not making sure i had a copy of everything. In fact to highlight the dealer in this, they actually forgot to have me sign a piece of my loan documentation, had to have me come back to do it. My bank almost revoked my loan. This is not my first rodeo, ive bought from 5 different dealerships. I checked the car fax before i even went to see the car, everything looked fine, besides the accident but as i said, it said no structural damage. I did my resarch i found KBB values, Blackbook values NADA values, competitive prices from other dealers (who were much further away ). I looked up parts costs for things like transmissions, axles and other parts that i read commonly failed. I checked the tires, i looked underneath for leaks, i opened the oil filler cap and checked for gunk, i stuck my head under the car while it was running.



As to the core charge on the turbo, I spent a bunch of cash on the down payment two months ago, Ive spent close to $500 on the car since then on things like diagnostic fees, getting the oil pressure sensor replaced, and having to drive back and forth to the dealer. Add in vacation season and the fact that without the core charge replacing the turbo would cost 750, and with a core charge $1000, its a fairly expensive repair. All in all with the Down payment, the already done repairs, and the turbo replacement id be spending close to $2400 over two and a half months I would say that its not unreasonable to become strapped at this point I also needed to have it done this week, as my father is on vacation, so no time to save. I have savings and i could get the turbo replaced, but there is a limit to how much im willing to eat into my savings, especially for a car that i just want to be rid of now.
I'm just playing devil's advocate here and the situation you're in does suck.

But the first thing Car Fax states is they don't guarantee anything. It states there was an accident and no structural damage and the only thing you listed that's structural is the subframe. Is there anything you have to show they knew the subframe was damaged when they sold the car? How damaged is the subframe? Does it cause the car to drive different and pull or something? Maybe they also read the Car Fax and thought it was minor. Also, is the intercooler actually damaged or not? You mention they said it was but then later say it's probably RTV that you used to seal the turbo piping. So is it damaged or is it something you yourself did?

With the mods, is it the dealer's responsibility to tell you the car is modified? I would imagine if one looked under the car they would have noticed upgraded DPs as they are usually stainless and the stock ones are rusted like the rest of the exhaust.

Of minor note, I'm pretty certain a turbo is $500 after core and $750 if you pay for the core. That's at least what I paid when I replaced my rear turbo and I know the front one was cheaper. You have another car so pull the turbo off the SHO, take it to the dealer, but a new turbo for $500 (no core charge because you already have the core), and install the new turbo. It sounds like you have a $500 repair and you can have the car up and running again.
 

04lss

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
127
Reaction score
20

These responses are mostly my opinion.

I also want to put it out there that i am not trying to avoid my share of blame in this. there were one or two warning signs i should have found.
and in the future i am going to be far more critical of used cars.


really at this point as ive said i expect no resolution, no assistance, or anything else. i simply want to report this to the proper bodies, so that i might help others in the future. Regardless of blame, the dealer has acted unprofessional. loosing paperwork, almost costing me my loan by failing to have me sign all the documents. I have 27 Yes i counted 27 phone calls where i didnt get through. this is out of 35 total, with two of the answered calls being calls to set up the test drive.




But the first thing Car Fax states is they don't guarantee anything. It states there was an accident and no structural damage and the only thing you listed that's structural is the subframe. Is there anything you have to show they knew the subframe was damaged when they sold the car?
this is the biggest reason i have not pushed hard for a lawyer. Short answer, I cant prove they knew. Ive been told its obvious and any above board dealer should have delt with it. That said. IMO: once the dealer was informed of this good business, or heck the decent thing to do would have been to make it right. Not pretend you would then have your service dept claim they cant find anything wrong.





How damaged is the subframe? Does it cause the car to drive different and pull or something?

Im told its bent, yes it drives oddly, it feels unsettled at interstate speeds you hit a bump and the car feels like it doesn't know what to do and kind of wobbles (yes ive gotten it aligned) I am told one of the subframe bolts is bent as well.



Maybe they also read the Car Fax and thought it was minor.

Acceptable for the sales team, but from what I have been told by two dealers is that this should have been caught by any pre-sale or pre warranty inspection.


"You mention they said it was but then later say it's probably RTV that you used to seal the turbo piping."


This is being checked tomorrow. though i talked to the mechanic and he mentioned yellow glue im fairly certain the RTV was red. However the point stands that the cruise sensor is damaged, the warranty will not cover it, they will not cover the car pulling to the left randomly, or even diagnose it more than oh accident.
Im still convinced its unrelated as its intermittent.
The bigger issue here is that with the collision damage, any issue that could be blamed on it, is, its an easy out for a mechanic. The same goes for the tune.




With the mods, is it the dealer's responsibility to tell you the car is modified? I would imagine if one looked under the car they would have noticed upgraded DPs as they are usually stainless and the stock ones are rusted like the rest of the exhaust.


I
I also look at this as a lie of omission.
would hope that dealers would not purposefully keep this information, how would most people know?
I checked under the car (briefly) the exhaust looked normal, the stock bits weren't rusted and knowing the subtle variations of stock vs aftermarket when simply looking a car over isnt a realistic expectation IMO





Of minor note, I'm pretty certain a turbo is $500 after core and $750 if you pay for the core. That's at least what I paid when I replaced my rear turbo and I know the front one was cheaper. You have another car so pull the turbo off the SHO, take it to the dealer, but a new turbo for $500 (no core charge because you already have the core), and install the new turbo. It sounds like you have a $500 repair and you can have the car up and running again.


only if purchased from certain dealers. ford list price is 720 and my local dealers have quoted me 650. if i were to get the $500 option from one of the cheaper dealers (levittown etc) id have to remove it, mail it and wait. This is a fairly moot point, as the turbo is the least of the issues its not the one causing the car to loose power, stumble etc. My front cats are clean and it is not blowing oil into the exhaust, im getting full boost so im leaving it until the running issue is addressed. If the rear cats being gutted fixes the issue then ill probably look at replacing the turbo. If not, it will wait.
 
Back
Top