Loved and lost, hope to love again

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Mikey

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Hey guys and girls,

Had a gen1 two gen 2 got 279000 out of my 93mtx. Still ran super strong but the body was going, pa winters. now just purchased my first gen3 117,000 It's the garage waiting to check if the cams were welded or if I need to. Difficult to resist driving it. Been reading up on the gen3 a lot.

The good,
Right price
Florida to Virginia to Pennsylvania title , no rust
Rebuilt tranny
Very clean
New magnaflow y pipe

Bad
Yet to open up the valve covers, cam status unknown
Motor mount broke, seller said front mount, shaky upon fast idle start, settles down @idle
Red brake idiot light on, brake system empty of fluid
Sat for 3 years with regular starts
Not a stick

Worried about have problems getting the brake system bled being it was empty. Is there any tips or tricks particular to refill and bleed a gen3?

I've searched v8sho and the Sho forum , basically looking for anyones 2 cents, thanks all.
 
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sperold

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Here is a thread that has the ABS bleeding tool (8th picture on page 1). Go to a shop that has one of these and knows how to use it.
http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?t...w-revos-fidanza-k-n-gen-3-parts.118620/unread

There are a couple of lines that go to the ABS bundle from the master cylinder and you fluid may have escaped at that point, which probably means your bundle would still be fully charged with fluid. There is a tiny resevoir on the ABS assembly, have a look at it to see if it is dry too. For a picture of that situation, see post #21 of this thread, yours will be similar.
http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?t...ho-have-ever-dreaded-doing-brake-lines.93524/

Good luck.
 
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Mikey

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Thank u so much for the rapid reply. Advice taken, I am calling around to see if any local shops have one (bleeding tool) vs the dreaded dealer.

I will check the reservior on the abs assembly and post picks upon inspection.

This us such a great community, been gone for a while so glad to be home again.
 

sperold

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I do not have a GenIII so my advice is limited. But if that ABS contraption is in the same location, and you find a bad brake line, you may be able, for $16.00, to buy a new stainless steel line from that second thread in my response.
But you will have to do some searching on that topic, and SHONut may have advice on that topic as he knows all the fittings and flaring types of the 90 to 95 SHOs.

I think I remember that TimboSHO would rent out that bleeding tool, but you would have to know how to use it, after determining that it is for a GenIII, and the shipping both ways may make it close to buying it. But it is a possible last resort, and I am sure some knowledgeable people will answer these questions with more authority.
 

E1

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Look at the brake lines directly underneath the front driver's side seat. There is a black plastic 'Hockey Stick' covering a bend in the brake lines. Classic first place for the brake lines to rust out.
Just throw a little brake fluid in the reservoir and stomp the pedal a few times, good chance this area gets wet all of the sudden. If this is the case, chances are the ABS is just fine. Repair the lines, fill 'er back up and go lock up the brakes a dozen times on a gravel road to cycle the old fluid out of the ABS. Re-bleed the brakes like any normal brake job and you're golden.
 

Mikey

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Thanks E1. Noticed that "black hockey stick" cover and the rubberized coating on the lines. Was suspect of rust there. There is a Lil rust going on behind the rear door. Common spot on the gen 2 in my ownership experience also.

I like the idea of making that abs work on a loose surface. Going to follow all suggestions and get it done. If I can't get it done (hate saying that about sho work) my buddy works at a local shop. Flush and fill for 79.00 dollars and they do employ the abs bleed tool sperold mentioned earlier. He said he'd take care of me too, we go way back.

Working six 10's right now....dying to check the cams and fix the brakes. Will post pics as soon as get my hands on her.

Sho forum, the best thing on the Internet!
 

Mikey

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Well putting the brakes on the brake work. Just found out she is NOT welded up yet. Appears to have had the loctite preventative on it. Bank 1 is open and ready to weld. Just need a day off now.

Any thoughts on condition based on appearance? Looks the oil changes have been kept up. IMG 0651 IMG950649
 

E1

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****. I'd give you $550.00
Maybe even $600.00
Ok. $700.00 - TOPS...
;-)

You did great.
 

Mikey

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E1,
Filled up the dot 3 and pumped the pedal till I got a leak. 3 lines. Both from the front block to the rear distribution block. And also the line from block over to the passenger rear. Lines broke at the plastic holder next to the fuel tank. The good, flushed the fluid out inadvertently ha.

Doing my research now for part numbers to ask for a Sable or taurus brake line, not one for a SHO. Don't need to pay triple key retail.

Thanks Steve! Looking forward to driving a sleeper again. Thanks for the positive encouragement.
 

RMJosh

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Congrats! Looks like a great find! Silver is great for sleeper material... Rose Mist? Not so much.... LOL
 

Mikey

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Thanks RM Josh. That rose mist with Sun setting has a real nice hue to it, I like it!

Ok dropped some cash at the parts store. Got Oil, antifreeze, cabin air filter, air filter, oil filter, permatex copper spray(gonna reuse the plug tube gaskets and valve cover gaskets), case of brake clean to clean the runners, the cams for welding, surge tank, butterflies, and LIM.

Gonna check the coils, seller claims they were just done and they do look brand new. Gonna get plugs, atf, filter gasket, and brake lines tomorrow. Need to spread out the parts, "yes honey the sho needs those parts to be safe." Bless her for putting up with me haha.
 

RMJosh

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With the mileage you have on it I would consider doing a full transmission flush. Mine started slipping in 1st and reverse at 119,000 and has not since I did the full flush (knock on wood) .You can do a full flush by following this procedure (on a Windstar with the same AX4N trans): (
) Except instead of disconnecting the cooler lines at the transmission housing, you'll disconnect them at the cooler itself, which is behind the front bumper, accessible by removing the splash guard under the front bumper :)

Also: ALWAYS RE-USE THE FACTORY MOTORCRAFT GASKET. The ones that come in the filter kits have been known to leak, and you don't have to use any RTV on the OEM gasket (I didn't, no leaks).
 

Mikey

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Update, well I pull the manifold all the way down to the heads. So here's my useful input.

The butterflies were so caked with oil, carbon build up that they would stay open after I pushed the rod connecting the two butterfly shafts. Even more significant, IMHO, the back shaft was leaving 2 of the four butterflies open about 1/8" due to the shafts being gummed up. And lots of oil in the surge tank and runners.

Thumbs up to the guys doing the cam welds with full service for $500-700. Can't beat that with a stick for the labor of a skilled sho mechanic and welder.

Trying to save another gen3, so far so good! Dying to run that V8. Go team sho!
 

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stephen newberg

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Sounds like progress. I have read reports from a couple of owners of really gummed up intakes like yours, but also reports of them being almost clean. I have not been able to figure out what was the difference, from the info that was available.

pax, smn
 

98SF19

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I have not been able to figure out what was the difference,
Stephen, I believe it's the PCV catch can that drastically slows the accumulation of deposits on the secondaries. I remember Paul had made his own setup that self-purged and after so many thousands of miles, the carbon buildup was near nothing.

My IMRC is long gone, and I do miss the distinct sound of the secondaries opening, but unless you have a catch can, you can either expect the IMRC cable to snap from fighting the carbon buildup, or the delrin gear in the IMRC box to crack, both of which happened to me before I wired the bastards open. Sure, Ford coulda put brass components in the box, but the tension on the cable will eventually cause failure. I think the most popular solution (from what I've read) is to remove the butterflies altogether; easier to clean when you do go in to clean out carbon buildup, and less surface area for deposits. When deposits get bad enough, then hey, you'll get back whatever low-end advantage the whole setup was supposed to provide, right!
 

98SF19

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Sleeper material? Shooot . . . come to FL and you'll find Rose Mist is the sleeper. Old ladies like to sell Mary Kay, and some are better than others. ;)
 
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stephen newberg

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The butterflies were not really intended to help the low end, but rather increase air flow for the high end. A reasonable amount of research done many years ago and stick about either here or in one of the other SHO sites tended to point out that due to various factors, the effect did not work well on the V8, though it did on the differently constructed manifold of the V6, IIRC. Regardless, you are already at the simple solution of wiring them open and tossing the IMRC out completely, or even removing them, though if you go to the latter, you also need to do something about the holes the axles make in the intake when the butterflies are gone.

pax, smn
 

Mikey

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I agree with 98sf19 installing a catch can has made my list of to do's. After seeing the amount oil that dripped out of the surge tank, and the pools of oil on the heads below my butterfly assembly. Dont want that again. I get its for environmental purposes but I can't help but feel a clean intake and properly maintenanced catch can is a much better way.

My gen 2 never felt as fast as when I did the 60k service at 150k and cleaned everything from the TB to the heads and all the snakes in between.

For kicks and giggles has anyone hooked up their butterflies via cable to the interior? Then u could have the choice on the fly. The "air grabber" on the ol road runners or was it on the satellite got me thinking.
 

Mikey

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Spent the day cleaning the butterflies and runners.....didn't even get to the surge tank.
 

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