Crimped heater hose leaking with bypass

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Terrorizer

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The coolant hose that goes from the engine block to the metal heater pipe is leaking on my 1990 5 speed sho. Its the one with the metal crimped portions on it. From what I understand you cut it off and replace it with this part:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...re+hose_1138597_3568&keyword=heater+core+hose

I have heard some people say that that part replaces the metal pipe it connects to, that seems odd to me. Does it just fit from the engine block outlet to the existing metal pipe?

The reason I ask is if I replace the metal heater pipe the hose would have to connect to a hose that was installed by the previous owner to bypass the heater core.
 

Terrorizer

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Here is the beautiful bypass job done by the previous owner. The arrow is pointing to the pipe that the leaking hose connects to, thats just the other end.
Bypass zps0c536790
 

kevinspann

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Yes, in your first post the short hose you linked fits to the existing metal hose. You pull the metal hose out of the car (you might be able to do it while installed) and take a dremel or grinder and cut off the crimp (the silver part). Then use the new rubber hose and a regular clamp.
 

JRA2000TL

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Can I use a generic hose clamp on each end?

Yes you can. Ugh, don't ask me how I know. I had **** dealing with mine. After I used that part you posted to nicely clean everything up, I found that my hose was ALSO leaking from the METAL line. I had to just rip both heater hoses out entirely and loop one large bypass hose.
 

Terrorizer

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Yes you can. Ugh, don't ask me how I know. I had **** dealing with mine. After I used that part you posted to nicely clean everything up, I found that my hose was ALSO leaking from the METAL line. I had to just rip both heater hoses out entirely and loop one large bypass hose.

Damn that sucks. Is there a fastener connecting the metal line to the valve cover? There appears to be some kind of bracket there. If so do you remember what kind it is?

I may just take it to a shop and be done with it. I don't normally do that but if its not too much it may be worth it to just have them take care of it, get it over with, and not have to worry about overheating anymore.
 

SHOtimer

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There is a molded bracket that is part of the metal tube that bolts the tube to the head. It's a PITA to deal with, i never re-secured mine to the head and it has been fine for 100k plus miles.

Doug
 

itwonder

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"Does it just fit from the engine block outlet to the existing metal pipe?"


YES! You've got it right. Cut the crimp off and pull the old hose off of the end of the metal pipe. Don't cut the metal pipe itself! ;) Replace the old hose with the part you've indicated, and trim it to fit. Clamp with worm clamps.
 

Terrorizer

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There is a molded bracket that is part of the metal tube that bolts the tube to the head. It's a PITA to deal with, i never re-secured mine to the head and it has been fine for 100k plus miles.

Doug

Yeah, it looks like a major pain, hahaha. I'm re-securing mine either, haha. So its just a regular bolt?
 

TimboSHO

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That bypass hose that was installed by the previous owner is completely kinked. This could create extra pressure in the line, and may have caused the leak. When you fix the leak, make sure you can route that hose differently so that it is not kinked, or find a longer hose. You may have to scour the local parts store for a hose that has the right curve to work as well. In a bind (in the middle of a snowstorm an hour from home) I think I just used one of the heater hoses and looped it back without a kink.

But as far as repairing the other hose, make sure when you are cutting the crimp off that you DO NOT cut the metal piece.

That is all. Good luck!
 

Terrorizer

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I ended up getting some heater hose plugs and just blocking off the line at each end and finally getting rid of the goofy looking kinked hose that was installed by the previous owner. All is well in the universe again. As always thanks to all that contributed, may the SHO gods smile upon you.
 
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