Which heater core is this? Two different one's are listed for my '89.
- Thread starter jimtash
- Start date
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rbruso
unlikely
Early '89 builds were copper/brass. The cutoff was a build date around March of 1989. When is the build date for the car?
From coloring, that looks like an aluminum core. Brass ones look more like this:
From coloring, that looks like an aluminum core. Brass ones look more like this:
intimdatr
Got Cams?
I guess the real question should be are they interchangeable?
DeepPower
Searchng4Truth
When you get a flow of hot fluid, like antifreeze, through an isolated metal conduit, it generates a small electric charge. On many cars there is a grounding strap from the heater core to body ground to ground the charge. However on the '89 SHO there is no grounding strap so the charge tries to jump to body ground on the bottom of the heater core. Because of this, over the years the metal of the heater core thins and degrades and you develop a leak.
Those of you without a grounding strap, you would be advised to install one or you'll get a leaky heater core like the photo above.
Those of you without a grounding strap, you would be advised to install one or you'll get a leaky heater core like the photo above.
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rbruso
unlikely
One point to add to the discussion: When aluminum corrodes in a cooling system, it ends up giving up material, which is why you get pinholes. Copper and brass usually end up on the deposit side of the equation, building up deposits until you get clogs.
Not sure why Ford swapped to aluminum at that point in production, but the previous copper/brass core is likely why there is no ground strap.
On any aluminum heater core I have swapped in the past two decades I have added a ground strap if one didn't already exist.
Not sure why Ford swapped to aluminum at that point in production, but the previous copper/brass core is likely why there is no ground strap.
On any aluminum heater core I have swapped in the past two decades I have added a ground strap if one didn't already exist.
DeepPower
Searchng4Truth
Jim, how did you get the heater core out? Did you pull the dashboard out?
jmpSHO2nd
SHO Member
That's the only way to get it out.
DeepPower
Searchng4Truth
Well, I've read about another way where you go in under the dashboard and cut the heater core box and pull it out that way.
Traditional way of taking the dash apart. I'm also installing a new evaporator, blower motor, and blend door actuator while I'm in there. Total cost of all the parts including shipping is $100.00 so why not? And the box is full of garbage accumulated over 25 years so I'm vacuuming it all out.
HVAC parts for these cars are super inexpensive these days and when done, the entire climate system will be brand new. Bought a new Motorcraft condensor for $40.00, the accumulator with suction hose for $30.00, and the liquid line for $20.00. Going to go ahead and convert over to R134 and be done with it. The compressor is fine except it needs a new clutch but I'm debating on whether to just go ahead and buy a re-manufactured compressor instead because it and the cost of a clutch are about the same.
Never thought I'd see the day when basically the cost of 2-3 tanks of gas is the equivalent to a new HVAC system. Crazy times.
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=127474
HVAC parts for these cars are super inexpensive these days and when done, the entire climate system will be brand new. Bought a new Motorcraft condensor for $40.00, the accumulator with suction hose for $30.00, and the liquid line for $20.00. Going to go ahead and convert over to R134 and be done with it. The compressor is fine except it needs a new clutch but I'm debating on whether to just go ahead and buy a re-manufactured compressor instead because it and the cost of a clutch are about the same.
Never thought I'd see the day when basically the cost of 2-3 tanks of gas is the equivalent to a new HVAC system. Crazy times.
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=127474
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DeepPower
Searchng4Truth
You know, it's occurred to me that since the leaks are always at the bottom of the heater core, that there might be a way to plug it.
What if we disconnect both hoses to the heater core and pour something liquid into the core to fill up only the very bottom? It would have to be something that would eventually harden into a solid and block the holes but not stick the core like glue to the housing.
Jim, what does the bottom of the heater core housing look like? Would it retain fluid?
BTW, I initially plugged my heater core leak with the Bar's Leak Copper, but that was before I knew I had to ground the core so the leaks came back. I wonder if the Bar's can be heated and then poured into the core as I suggest?
jimtash, where did you find the Motorcraft condensor? Everything I'm seeing is double that price. TIA
JRA2000TL
The Complainer
x2 on the cheap condenser and also, do NOT buy a reman compressor if you can help it. Guess why? Mine failed in LESS than a year on my 89. It leaked and the clutch was trying to seize (move very very slowly), which probably burned up the shaft seal and caused the leak. When I replaced it the first time, I put a new accumulator, liquid line, and condenser in it so "trash in the lines" would not have caused it.
I found a NOS Ford unit for a hefty $270 on Ebay. You bet I bought that sucker, and it's in the car now working great. On my second go-around, I put the new Ford compressor in, another accumulator, and another liquid line. No reason to do the condenser. Working great since last year.
AC system DIY cost around $400...a shop double that or up to the $1200 range.
I had to do mine twice so I still wound up spending about $800.
I found a NOS Ford unit for a hefty $270 on Ebay. You bet I bought that sucker, and it's in the car now working great. On my second go-around, I put the new Ford compressor in, another accumulator, and another liquid line. No reason to do the condenser. Working great since last year.
AC system DIY cost around $400...a shop double that or up to the $1200 range.
I had to do mine twice so I still wound up spending about $800.
mrecoolgar
SHO NUP
I removed my dash then the climate plenums.
I split the plenum at the seam using a puddy knife and a hammer.
I fastened it together with #8 screws, looks factory.
I also made new foam seals and washed all pieces.
The fan blows strong now.
Especially now that the evaporator core is free of debri.
I split the plenum at the seam using a puddy knife and a hammer.
I fastened it together with #8 screws, looks factory.
I also made new foam seals and washed all pieces.
The fan blows strong now.
Especially now that the evaporator core is free of debri.
Bought one on closeout at RockAuto. YJ-247. They have 9 left at $46.42
They list another part number as well, YJ-422 but both this one and the YJ-247 give the same description and fitments. The YJ-422 cost double.
In the SHO related forum, I posted a thread with cheap prices for Motorcraft compressor clutch parts.
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JRA2000TL
The Complainer
I think the Ford ones will give you the adapter brackets too. I threw away 80 bucks on an aftermarket condenser, which was significantly smaller than the OE, and it did not fit. I ordered the Ford one and it too was small, but it included adapter brackets for proper fitting. Ford changed to a smaller condenser around 91. Yours should come with the brackets since you got the Ford one.
This one looks like the exact same as the original. Two rows of cores and it's big. I think it's the same as the original one because of the part number, "247" and also the date on the printed label which is from 1997. Ford likes to switch their numbers around but also does a lot of substitutions as their inventory empties out.
I looked at aftermarket condensers and they actually might be more efficient like plate coolers for transmissions because they share similar designs. The flat plates actually cool better than the round cores. Still though, the original condenser served it's purpose and is still good and since I'm in the system and I can find an OEM part, go ahead and change it and be done. Tired of dealing with R-12.
I looked at aftermarket condensers and they actually might be more efficient like plate coolers for transmissions because they share similar designs. The flat plates actually cool better than the round cores. Still though, the original condenser served it's purpose and is still good and since I'm in the system and I can find an OEM part, go ahead and change it and be done. Tired of dealing with R-12.
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