Gen 3 Subframe Mod

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christiansho

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ok thanks!! off to the drawing board.. just want to have it all in place so no surprises and no issues! and ok ya im going all out i want new bushings :)


and got to see how to get this jig?? im in canada ....eh! lol
 

rubydist

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the tie rod ends need to be changed because the hole in the knuckle is significantly larger on the Gen3 knuckle, so the Gen1/2 ones don't work.

the stiffer lca bushings will indeed make handling more crisp at the expense of more noise and harshness over road expansion joints and bumps. the choice is yours.

you can use either 96-97 or 98+ subframes. imho the 96-97 is easier to modify but others have different opinions.
 

christiansho

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ya i found one!!!! frame in ontario , 250 for frame + 100 for knucles and 50 bucks delivery!! i might make a deal 400 with delivery and leave the steering rack on! is the gen 3 rack the same on the v6 and the sho model?? the is a 96-97 v6 taurus . and i priced the replacement parts , might double check how they are , but i hate doing things half way! i rather just replace all bushings and ball joints now so i know the car is all mint and new!

i still need to find how to get a jig!! i think there is a guy "marcel" in ontario that did gen 3 upgrade on his gen 2 . the shopower site is down so i cant contact him and ee how he got the trans mount in the correct place . well i will do this forsure! i want a better steering feel and better handing and less torque steer! thats something i will have an issue with when i am trying to plant 400+ hp to the ground lol
 

rubydist

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I made a jig by using a stock Gen2 mtx subframe to let me know where the mount needed to be. Welded it up and then mounted the trans mount to the jig to locate it in space at the right location on the Gen3 subframe. (Unfortunately, I am not able to part with it to have it go on a world tour.)

make sure your 'new' subframe has no rust.

the Gen3 steering rack has different fittings, and the only version that is better than the Gen2 one is on the SHO Gen3. I would just use the one you have unless it is bad.
 

christiansho

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ok i will research a little more to make sure i have right location for the weld! and ok SHO rack , ok cool! i want to do it it seems like its a better ratio and looks like alot of people rave about it
 

christiansho

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NESHO makes the whole kit for sale, but shipping of that kit is very expensive. That would be cheaper to buy a different car, then make subframe swap and all the little things. The whole kit that Kirk sales is around $750 and then then shipping could cost you from 400 to 800. That's a lot of money, I think. If you buy subframe with all the things, that will cost you from $200, but you need to go and buy it somewhere first. Travelling would cost you time and other expenses, then you would need to modify everything yourself, which includes cutting and welding etc. I can go on, but at the end there is still a lot of money spent in this kind of swap. There is one car in New York driving around that has much simpler kit used to do subframe swap. Unfortunately time and current weather is holding up from developing this kit, but second car is about to hit the road with this kit very soon.

where is link for this nesho? cant find links or prices???
 

christiansho

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i was reading about ZF steering rack... and it looks like there is an electrical actuator that controls the fluid pressure as speed increases... will this in fact work on gen 1 and 2? looks like it uses speed sensor to monitor it ... i know my rack on my 91 and half has some electrical plug that plugs into the rack , variable assist i think they call it.. is this the same way the ZF rack plugs in too???


http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...3IHIDg&usg=AFQjCNFyrMdNpmsHlZjaPkjiFau1XzSLog

is the link where i read it! its some ford tech write up about the zf rack! if you cant in fact gain benifits... why go through the trouble ...
 

zak

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this nesho doesnt have a parts and picture link on there site i could find???? how do i see prices and what they have to offer????

The Gen 3 SHO rack is actually a slower ratio than the SHO/SLO rack but not by much
 

Art5

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where is link for this nesho? cant find links or prices???

They don't list any prices there like that. You have to call them, and they answer their phone once a week, if you're lucky. And the last time I checked their site on windows computer, my computer would run extremely slow. SO, if you need any questions answered by NESHO, ask them here first, most of the people would know the answer.
 

Toolman

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the tie rod ends need to be changed because the hole in the knuckle is significantly larger on the Gen3 knuckle, so the Gen1/2 ones don't work.

Hmm. I'm using GEN I tie rods on my GEN III subframe. I certainly do not recall purchasing GEN III rod ends.
Perhaps I should swap them out. Seem to work fine for the multiple track days and hundreds of miles of street driving.
 
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SHOZ123

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You need stop collars on the sway bar so it doesn't float back and forth too.
 

quikSHOilver

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Hmm. I'm using GEN I tie rods on my GEN III subframe. I certainly do not recall purchasing GEN III rod ends.
Perhaps I should swap them out. Seem to work fine for the multiple track days and hundreds of miles of street driving.

Ditto, I am using Gen2 tierod on ZF rack and Gen3 sfb and been driving it since without ill-effect...:shrug:
 

rubydist

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You need stop collars on the sway bar so it doesn't float back and forth too.


you don't need stop collars, because it can only move about an inch either way before the angle on the sway bar gets to the attaching point, therefore limiting its sideways movement.


I have done the Gen3 swap twice, and in both cases we needed to get different tie rod ends to fit. (perhaps all the 96+ tie rod ends are not the same?)
 

zach44102

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Hmm. I'm using GEN I tie rods on my GEN III subframe. I certainly do not recall purchasing GEN III rod ends.
Perhaps I should swap them out. Seem to work fine for the multiple track days and hundreds of miles of street driving.

Tim you can use them, it has been done for years. BUT the rod ends are tapered differently. I would swap them out for gen3 ends but at the same time it is not going to cause complete failure.
 

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