95 MTX Intermittantly dies in hot weather

[javve]

I have been going through possible causes to try and find the problem. I have to change my fuel pressure regulator and plan to do the fuel damper as well since I am doing the one. Went to swap out the pressure regulator with one from the junk yard that looked a lot better, now leaking fuel from that area. I am suspecting bad washers. Does a new one come with washers?

Here is what I know so far.

Charging system and battery are fine.
90 degree plus temperatures here
Engine bay is hot hot hot
Unable to touch coil pack for any length of time (swapped with one from the JY off a 95 ATX sho)
Car starts and runs fine cold, but will die while running or driving down the road when the car reaches normal running temp.
Does not always happen when it's hot out, so it isn't a constant get hot then it dies.
When it does die, it acts like it will start but barely reaches 500 rpm before dieing again. If I turn the key off and on a few times, it will reach 1100ish rpm then die (Fuel pressure problem?)
Let it sit for a few, it will start up. Sometimes it will die right away, other times it will be fine.
Car sat while in part store to check the charging system. When I went to start it it got the bad idle after a couple minutes then died. It had sat for roughly ten to fifteen minutes.

I am not able to test fuel pressure right now until I fix the fuel leaking problem around the pressure regulator.

 

[shotime1994]

Sounds like your water pump is leaking on your crank sensor.

 

[Shovert]

Not a SHO motor expert by no means. Did you put heat absorbing paste under the ignition module? Maybe overheating and causing problem. I know this happens on the 2.3 Dual plug engine. [Uses a similiar ignition module] Ford motors I have experience with. Maurice

 

[javve]

Sounds like your water pump is leaking on your crank sensor.

If this were true wouldn't I be getting no spark instead of it firing for just a second when this happens?

Not a SHO motor expert by no means. Did you put heat absorbing paste under the ignition module? Maybe overheating and causing problem. I know this happens on the 2.3 Dual plug engine. [Uses a similiar ignition module] Ford motors I have experience with. Maurice

I took the ignition module in to get tested and it tested fine. I did put dielectric grease on the back side to transfer the heat off it after I cleaned off the old stuff.

When this does happen I hear a slight whine after the fuel pump runs when I cycle the key on and off. (fuel going through the return?)

 

[shotime1994]

How do you know it's a fuel pressure problem and not spark? I say crank sensor because the hot coolant will short the sensor out.

 

[Shovert]

The others know more than me. But there is a difference in dielectric grease and heat conducting paste [White in color like toothpaste]. Naturall module will test good cold. If dies at home. A idea put a ice pack on the module let cool and see what happens. Will keep eye on this thread please post when learn what it is. I am curious and want to learn.

 

[javve]

How do you know it's a fuel pressure problem and not spark? I say crank sensor because the hot coolant will short the sensor out.

Because if I cycle the key three to four times it will fire up to about 1100 rpms then quit.

 

[shotime1994]

Pull codes yet?

 

[kevinspann]

Vapah lock.

How old is that fuel pump?

 

[Shovert]

Edit Done some reading. Say use dielectric with a Ford#.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...MS/Component-Replacement/_/P-0900c152802791af
I looked in my Chilton manual says the same. So I have learned some more. Sorry for the bad advice. Maurice

 

[javve]

Pull codes yet?

No light. It came on for about five minutes then went back off.

Vapah lock.

How old is that fuel pump?

That would be a new experience for me being it is fuel injected. How does it happen? I've only experienced it with a carb'd motor

Edit Done some reading. Say use dielectric with a Ford#.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...MS/Component-Replacement/_/P-0900c152802791af
I looked in my Chilton manual says the same. So I have learned some more. Sorry for the bad advice. Maurice

Hey no worries. At least you did some research, and you learned something new. There has been a lot of debate back and forth on which is the best to use. I think the main thing is that you do not over use the stuff causing higher temps on the thing then if you didn't use any at all.

 

[kevinspann]

The fuel rails go under that hot ass intake.

Ask Frosho....

We stopped about 10 times for his car stalling last year from it. Ice down intake, restart keep going. It was fine on the highway.

 

[shotime1994]

The fuel rails go under that hot ass intake.

Ask Frosho....

We stopped about 10 times for his car stalling last year from it. Ice down intake, restart keep going. It was fine on the highway.

IIRC Hamal put a pump in then right?

 

[kevinspann]

Yeah, there was a community fuel pump install on the last night.

 

[rubydist]

cycling the key several times resulting in a startup that is short-lived suggests either that the fuel pump is bad, or that you are having vapor lock issues, or both - as has already been suggested.

If the fuel is not formulated to handle those hot days (cheap fuel is more likely to have this issue, in my experience) then it can vaporize in the fuel rails resulting in not nearly enough fuel being injected. I had this happen on my 92 earlier this summer when it was 100+ and I was flogging it a little up the mountain. this is more likely to occur if the fuel pump is old and weak resulting in low pressure.

 

[javve]

IIRC Hamal put a pump in then right?

The fuel rails go under that hot ass intake.

Ask Frosho....

We stopped about 10 times for his car stalling last year from it. Ice down intake, restart keep going. It was fine on the highway.

Good info. I have to change the fuel pressure regulator since I can't seem to find any of the washers with the rubber in the center around here... unless anyone has any ideas where to look.

cycling the key several times resulting in a startup that is short-lived suggests either that the fuel pump is bad, or that you are having vapor lock issues, or both - as has already been suggested.

If the fuel is not formulated to handle those hot days (cheap fuel is more likely to have this issue, in my experience) then it can vaporize in the fuel rails resulting in not nearly enough fuel being injected. I had this happen on my 92 earlier this summer when it was 100+ and I was flogging it a little up the mountain. this is more likely to occur if the fuel pump is old and weak resulting in low pressure.

Going to probably change the fuel pump then to ensure no more problems and not have to worry about how hot it is. Part of my trip I am making will be through some not so populated areas. I am going to be pulling a light weight trailer behind me so anything I can do to keep it cooler and ensure the proper amount of fuel will help.

Thanks for the explanation on the vapor lock. I knew the idea behind it but never knew exactly what was going on.

 

[javve]

Well the FPR is leaking through the top so it's off to the other JY to hopefully find a SHO. Will have to get a cheap 7/8th and grind it down. I know I must have damaged the darn thing with the thick wrench.

 

[kevinspann]

I'm not 100% sure, but I think someone found a washer that is used for something on a Powerstroke diesel that worked. But without knowing all the details, that isn't a ton of help. It might come up with a search...

 

[Bob Gervais]

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=118822&highlight=powerstroke+washer

 

[kevinspann]

Good job, Bob