To Repair or To Sell.... That is the question

[VampyreGTX]

well, decision time has come in regards to the SHO. As the title states, need to figure out if I should repair or sell my SHO. I have a '92 MTX, white, with 94K miles one it. Virtually all original parts (excluding normal wear items) except for radio, speakers, and an engine mount. Now, I'm trying to get opinions on what costs would be to repair her, back to good condition, or if I should just sell her as is to another SHO enthusiast. I'm sure with TLC, she'll have plenty of good years ahead of her.

Here's the problems:

For basic known issues:
A/C no workie, needs a new compressor clutch,

Windshield washing tubing is blocked or town somewhere as the pump works, but the sprayer on the drivers side doesn't work.

Parking brake sticks, and as a result of a overheated rear driver side brake, the ABS sensor on that side is fried.

Problems I either 'think' I have nailed down or have no clue what the problem is.

I believe there is a pinhole antifreeze leak somewhere toward the bottom (get the AF smell, no visible leaks, and I don't believe it's a heater core) and go through about a container of AF every 6-8 weeks. Think it's a small leak from when the engine mount was replaced.

Occasionally get the engine light, but ONLY after prolonged driving at 50+MPH for 10+ miles. Goes away with restart. Most of my driving is 3 miles or so to and from the train station, so never see it until the next longer trip.

Rough idle after first starting the car, once I accelerate 2-3 times, it's mostly gone, though occasionally comes back at a barely perceptible roughness.

Finally, about 2 weeks ago, I think it's associated with the rough idle, the car would start, but wouldn't hold combustion. Ran rough as heck. After 2 tries, she gave up. Starter, everything was turning over (strongly as well, battery still strong) but wouldn't fire. Let her sit a bit about 5 minutes, and started up smooth.

Other than that, only minor cosmetic issues inside and out, but performance, these above appear to be the main problems.. oh and new tires .

Decisions, decisions....

 

[frosho]

Codes. Pull them. Then fix it.

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm

 

[Phoenix]

All these things are fairly simple to repair.

Your CE light is probably O2 sensors , your rear brakes , probably the rubber oil lines....

For your windshield problem , probably just the jet that is clogged or the rubber line.

For the leak , if you put in that much you probably see where its comming from (jack the car).


I mean , its gonna cost some money , but not that much , specially if you do it yourself.

 

[sperold]

It is plated, in your name, and it is a MTX; and you are not complaining about the clutch. The logical choice is to fix it, and I am not saying that because the selling experience will leave you cold, but because all your problems are small.
Take it to a shop that specializes in these cars, and if none are available, do everything yourself.
Get a code reader, or borrow one, or read it using Shophoenix's paper clip method.
Attack it one problem at a time and do lots of research here on this forum.

 

[lowc]

agreed with all above it will cost a little but a lot less than buyin a new ride

 

[JRA2000TL]

All small crap, (well except maybe the a/c if it turns out to be more of an issue), fix it.

Why does the compressor need a new clutch? Does the air work at all? If it does what my 95 recently did, the a/c would work for 15 min. and quit. I removed a shim from the clutch, reinstalled it, and it works beautifully. One day down the road I will have to eventually replace it I'm sure as the clutch plates wear and cause it to not engage properly.

That's the biggest item on your list. Pulling the codes will tell you alot. Fix the caliper, screw the ABS unless it's really important. My ABS lights are on in both of my SHOs. If it is just a simple wheel sensor, fix it.

Now if you told me your clutch was shot, tranny leaked fluid, engine had a rod knock, blend door actuator was inoperable, and the car was rusty as ****, then you could not feel guilty about selling it.

 

[luigisho]

How much are you willing to put into it? It needs some cash infused. Too much cash or work is different for everyone.

 

[SHO1]

If you like the car, I'd keep and fix.That's all fairly minor stuff to fix, especially if you don't have to pay a shop to do it.

 

[VampyreGTX]

I'll pull the codes and update. The A/C clutch is based on a friend that used to have SHO's and it's the same issue. A/C doesnt' engage at all anymore.

I know there is a local shop, well in Arlington Heights, as well as a guy down by downers grove in illinois I believe that specializes in these. If I could get details instructions on some of the items, I may even be able to tackle them at the firehouse on shift if the time commitment to each repair won't be more than a few hours.

As for a second car, I got a (don't laugh!) '01 saturn in 100% perfect shape for free, from my brother. (well, actually $150 for the cost of replacing the front coil springs) so I do have a ride in the meantime.

The SHO will need a paintjob eventually as the paint has gotten quite chalky, but being white, it doesn't show too bad and a constant wax hides the dullness nicely for a few weeks at least.

Now time to go pull the codes.

 

[VampyreGTX]

Here are the codes:

Engine Off
111 - normal

Memory:
172 - O2 sensor
542 - Fuel pump open/bad ground/always on

Engine On:
116 - Engine Coolant Sensor
173 - 02 Sensor
167 - Throttle Position Sensor no change in goose test (may not have given it enough throttle I think)
225 - knock sensor not tested

That's it. Cylinder test gave ma an all clear 9.

 

[sperold]

Only turn your car over to a shop that has a lot of history with these cars, and specializes in them. Specializes in them enough to be known across the surrounding states or the whole country.
Otherwise, do it all yourself.
If you are going to pay for someone to learn, it may as well be you.
Buy an OBD1 Ford Code Reader ($100.00 or less), and your car will tell you more than an inexperienced mechanic ever could.

 

[SHOCH]

Where in Il are you again?

 

[sperold]

See post #3 and follow it.
Be prepared to test your fuel pressure on your injector rail (should be around 30 psig).
Start pricing the other items on close-out at one of the many places that serve the needs of this car (Shosource, Rcmautomotive, Rockauto, Advance, etc).
Be aware that your temperature gauge gets a signal from a sensor, and your on-board computer gets a signal from a totally different sensor, but both are near the thermostat.

 

[VampyreGTX]

Where in Il are you again?

Bartlett.

 

[SHOhopefull]

Man, I read the title and thought "here's someone with my dilemma...". At least until I saw the problems...

Fix it!

Mine is a 90 needing either a clutch or trans or both, a new steering rack, the dash and steering column need to be swapped out, it has a short on fuse #8 circuit, and needs tires.

But, it has Eibachs/Tokicos, a Fidanzza flywheel, and a rust free southern body.
Now that's a dilemma...LOL

 

[VampyreGTX]

Well, I do need new tires as well, and I USED to have a rust free southern body, though only a tiny bit of rust. Not bad with having it about 7 years in Chi-town.

I'm not just very mechanically inclined. I know I can do the O2 sensors easy, same with a fuel filter, but not sure I could tackle the fuel pump myself.

 

[SHOCH]

Are you on SHOcago.com? There's some local people that can help. Don't dump it yet, Platoribs has no room left at his house for another car.

 

[sperold]

I am sure you can tackle the fuel pump yourself.
There are no end to the write ups on fuel pump replacements (with and without an access door in the body).
But first, you have to confirm you need one.

 

[Bob Gervais]

As mentioned, it all depends on how much you like the car, how much you're willing/can afford to spend on it, and most importantly how rusty it is.

I like Tom's idea, get with some of your local SHOCago members, and get another set of eyes on the car. Check the undercarriage, rocker panels, and doglegs.

 

[jessemachone]

fix it. none of those things are reasons to sell it. when you fix the e brake, stop using it.... i only had one of 4 or 5 tauri that had a reliable e brake. use it in emergency. the e brake shaft that goes into the caliper gets sticky.