atx gen3 subframe - Update w/ more MTX

[whiteguy3]

Man that pink transmission shifts like a beauty too! I like the purple converter even more...lol.

The rack bolt were a little annoying with the subframe up but I ended up using my own new bolts through the rack and subframe. Gonna make it much easier to uninstall and reinstall.

lol, omg i have no idea how you got that trans cooler in there with an intercooler and oil pump. We had a hard time just getting the cooler/fan in.

LOL...so true. But some welding and maneuvering we got it.

 

[inverse1216]

Nope, better suspension geometry and gets rid of the strut rod receivers. Makes launches better, and I guess cornering better as well. I believe you use Gen3 knuckles as well, which means the wheel bearing comes out with 3 bolts.

ive been out of the loop for a few years now but are these the only benefits of doing this swap? is this more of a mod for the track guys? ive been seeing alot of threads about guys doin this.

 

[somedude_001]

ive been out of the loop for a few years now but are these the only benefits of doing this swap? is this more of a mod for the track guys? ive been seeing alot of threads about guys doin this.

this swap eliminates the horribly designed strutrod bushings that seem to constantly fail.

Man that pink transmission shifts like a beauty too! I like the purple converter even more...lol.

I swear that is how the converter came haha. did you ever drop the oil pan to see if the filter was in all the way? just wondering if you drained the trans to do the swap. I usually don't. Do you have a tweecer on there to firm up the shifts? you should be able to get pretty aggressive with that trans. isn't the gear ratio change the way these should have been made? The improvement is fantastic. Also what does the converter stall to in your car? it should be 2800-2900 i think

Do you think the gen 3 subframe will make turbo pipe routing easier? the pics make it look like there is more room for the up pipe.

 

[Sho Amo]

Ill answer...
The gen3 subframe is going to require the up pipe to go underneath the front of the subframe. We have an idea for what we will do with it, but it wont be for a few months. The Tri-flows are going in soon (once we get a stock tranny for your old car), engine is sitting on the hoist with subframe out. From what i saw today, the stall looked to be around 2800. He is using a tweecer and my laptop, so the shifts are awesome.

Turbo needs a rebuild

 

[Sho Amo]

Oh and....going to get an autometer carbon fiber gauge for it

 

[SeanMc]

ive been out of the loop for a few years now but are these the only benefits of doing this swap? is this more of a mod for the track guys? ive been seeing alot of threads about guys doin this.

Well, with that, I'm going to say the car rides better as well. I plan on doing this soon.

 

[whiteguy3]

Yeah it does. Plus wheel bearings aren't annoying anymore and the control arm design is sooo much better.

 

[somedude_001]

Ill answer...
The gen3 subframe is going to require the up pipe to go underneath the front of the subframe. We have an idea for what we will do with it, but it wont be for a few months. The Tri-flows are going in soon (once we get a stock tranny for your old car), engine is sitting on the hoist with subframe out. From what i saw today, the stall looked to be around 2800. He is using a tweecer and my laptop, so the shifts are awesome.

Turbo needs a rebuild

FYI the heat shield for the turbo hotside once lived as a cooking *** FYI. isn't it pretty for being 4 years old?

glad to hear the tranny worked out for you. just don't get greedy like we talked about with the boost and it will treat you good. What failed on your old trans? you could probably make a good one out of all those spare parts I gave you. - the actual case you have 1.5 trans worth of parts in bins now.

the G3 subframe uses the alum spindles right? the unsprung weight savings must be nice for the ride for sure.

 

[SHODWN]

Altogether there is no weight savings, your just doing this for better handeling, launching ect.. the ZF rack is a much better than the old gen1-2..

I dont see a reason why you had to make the engine bracket like that.. I guess I should at some point release all my docs on this setup..

ATX's that I make bolt in with no special bracket. just use your stock mts..

 

[whiteguy3]

I dont see a reason why you had to make the engine bracket like that.. I guess I should at some point release all my docs on this setup..

ATX's that I make bolt in with no special bracket. just use your stock mts..

I didn't make that mount specifically for this project. I wanted a solid mount. There is no point in using the rubber mount on a modified atx, especially not if the trans is tuned. Maybe nobody you know has broken a motor mount on a shift and put a huge dent in there hood?

I guess I should at some point release all my docs on this setup..

No point in that.

 

[SHODWN]

No your right I have not seen anyone do that! Mostly because they just buy a reinforced ATX mount that dont break. At least thats that the Turbo and SC cars that I worked on years ago did.. But thats also when putting 5-10k into a 3 year old car was fairly common.

 

[SHOMEX]

ATX front motor mounts break very often; so now theres two options: buy a reinforced mount or a solid mount from Whiteguy. I'll do the second in the near future.

 

[SeanMc]

ATX front motor mounts break very often; so now theres two options: buy a reinforced mount or a solid mount from Whiteguy. I'll do the second in the near future.

I'm using the excellent mounts from TYSHO. They've lasted going on 4 years now, and I'm not easy on my car.

 

[Sho Amo]

Alex that heat shield is awesome. I didnt know that.

 

[whiteguy3]

The mount itself also opens a lot more room in that area too. Much easier to install and uninstall. Making a solid mount is easier than trying to reinforce rubber. The vibration actually is the same as an MTX reinforced mount. Nothing too serious just noticeable. I wouldn't do it any other way.

 

[somedude_001]

The mount itself also opens a lot more room in that area too. Much easier to install and uninstall. Making a solid mount is easier than trying to reinforce rubber. The vibration actually is the same as an MTX reinforced mount. Nothing too serious just noticeable. I wouldn't do it any other way.

the green turbo car's engine was butter smooth all the way upto 8500rpm when I was testing the new cams. I can't imagine solid mounts on a atx being a bother.

solid mounts will make your pipe routing SOOOOOOO much easier when you get around to it. just make sure to use both of those flex pipes otherwise every time you take the pipes out you will hate life when you try to put them back in.

 

[rubydist]

The donor for my Sable wagon conversion project had solid motor mounts on it. There was a serious kick when you cranked the engine over and it first fired. The nvh was noticeably a lot more than the stock mounts. When I put it in the Sable, I pulled one of the solid mounts and replaced it with a stock one. Now its a little more nvh than stock, but not terrible, and that big kick at startup is gone.

 

[whiteguy3]

There is no need for solid rear mounts on an atx. That is probably why you saw so much vibration. Even then, a little vibration is well worth the difference.

 

[SeanMc]

There is no need for solid rear mounts on an atx. That is probably why you saw so much vibration. Even then, a little vibration is well worth the difference.

When you start throwing your car into corners, and doing hard braking, you'll think differently.

 

[whiteguy3]

When you start throwing your car into corners, and doing hard braking, you'll think differently.

Really?

I mean I have pushed this thing pretty hard around corners and it handles like a ****. I got a bunch of suspension stuff too. Some custom and some bolt on. So I don't know, maybe I need to push it harder!...pause