krek
ChumpCar Racer
We're building yet another SHO LeMons car... pulled the dash today and the monstrous wiring harness is looking like a nightmare.
Where do we start hacking?
Where do we start hacking?
Wiring Harness for Dedicated Track Car
- Thread starter krek
- Start date
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Inkertinker
Well-Known Member
Until the car quits running. Ask me how I know...
do you want it to "just" run or what function do you want to save???
I did a stand alone eec iv/ sho swap this summer, I was suprised how much WAS NOT needed.
If you just want a runing engine you just need the injector harness and engine harness, half the suff on the engine harness is not needed matter of fact. Just dont screw up any ground and the EEC only need a couple power inputs, a yellow wire that goes to start / run and two fat red wires that need a positive battery connection. Of course you want to save your CCRM to power you fans and fuel pump but not much else is needed for a runnning stand alone syustem.
I did a stand alone eec iv/ sho swap this summer, I was suprised how much WAS NOT needed.
If you just want a runing engine you just need the injector harness and engine harness, half the suff on the engine harness is not needed matter of fact. Just dont screw up any ground and the EEC only need a couple power inputs, a yellow wire that goes to start / run and two fat red wires that need a positive battery connection. Of course you want to save your CCRM to power you fans and fuel pump but not much else is needed for a runnning stand alone syustem.
krek
ChumpCar Racer
Ideally that's the info I'm looking for... stand alone EEC and eliminate as much of the *CM/harness as possible.
We need to start and shut off the engine, run the defroster (rest of HVAC removed), fuel pump, fan, and lights.
Am I missing something else we need?
We need to start and shut off the engine, run the defroster (rest of HVAC removed), fuel pump, fan, and lights.
Am I missing something else we need?
Off Road SHO
Moderator
I'll try and dig up what I did for The Other Woman and post it. Are you going to do a completely new harness using just the stock wire connectors? Is the DIS going to be in its stock location or are you going to move it?
Tom
Tom
BlackandBlue
New Member
Which LeMons race? We did Houston and are heading to Ohio this weekend.
krek
ChumpCar Racer
DIS= Driver's Information System? We've gutted a '90 and it doesn't have one.
Plans are for the Memphis ChumpCar race to be our maiden attempt.
Plans are for the Memphis ChumpCar race to be our maiden attempt.
frosho
WOLFMAN
DIS = Distributorless Ignition System. The gray module mounted to the intake's crossover-tube.
krek
ChumpCar Racer
That would have been my second guess...
We'll leave it where it is unless there is a significant advantage so moving it?
Off Road SHO
Moderator
In that case, here goes. For the 3.2
Pin 1 of the PCM, a yellow wire needs to be hot at all times.
Ignition switch in start or run should heat up the following:
Pins 37 and 57 of the PCM
The purple wire to both O2 sensors
All six fuel injectors by way of their red wires
Idle Air Control red wire
MAF sensor red wire
Intake Manifold Runner Control red wire
Also hot in start and run is the red with green wire that feeds the:
Crank Position Sensor
The Cam Position Sensor
Pin 1 of the DIS
The Coil Pack
The Radio Noise suppressor (little capacitor bolted to coil pack mount)
From pin 46 of the PCM, the grey with red wire feeds reference voltage to:
Spout #2 and the results go back to pin 29
Intake Air Temperature sensor and back on pin 25
Throttle Position Sensor and back on pin 47
To both O2 sensors and back on pins 43 and 44
Knock sensor and back on pin 23
Engine Coolant Temp sensor and back on pin 7
Transmission Speed sensor and back on pin 5
Manual Lever Position Switch and back on pin 30
Speaking of the MLPS it returns 3770-4607 ohms if you're in park, 660-807 if you're in neutral, and 190-232 if you're in drive.
The last pin in each row of 20 pins on the PCM (pins 20, 40 and 60) is black or black with light green and should be run to ground. In fact any black or black with light green wire should be grounded along with the bare shield drain wire in the shielded bundles linking the Cam sensor, crank sensor, DIS and I think the coil pack also. This shield and drain wire is to collect and send to ground the electromagnetic interference generated by the spark plugs and their wire, the starter's windings and the starter cable, and to a lesser extent the coils of the injectors. Shielding and grounding is important in these engines.
I ran separate relays to power all of the high current needs of The Other Woman, like the fuel pump, cooling fans, lights, ignition, nitrous, extra coolant pump. But I think that it is perfectly allright to use the stock Constant Control Relay Module., just expensive to replace if one relay goes bad.
I'm sure there is more, but like Gary, I've forgotten more than I ever knew in the first place.
Tom
Pin 1 of the PCM, a yellow wire needs to be hot at all times.
Ignition switch in start or run should heat up the following:
Pins 37 and 57 of the PCM
The purple wire to both O2 sensors
All six fuel injectors by way of their red wires
Idle Air Control red wire
MAF sensor red wire
Intake Manifold Runner Control red wire
Also hot in start and run is the red with green wire that feeds the:
Crank Position Sensor
The Cam Position Sensor
Pin 1 of the DIS
The Coil Pack
The Radio Noise suppressor (little capacitor bolted to coil pack mount)
From pin 46 of the PCM, the grey with red wire feeds reference voltage to:
Spout #2 and the results go back to pin 29
Intake Air Temperature sensor and back on pin 25
Throttle Position Sensor and back on pin 47
To both O2 sensors and back on pins 43 and 44
Knock sensor and back on pin 23
Engine Coolant Temp sensor and back on pin 7
Transmission Speed sensor and back on pin 5
Manual Lever Position Switch and back on pin 30
Speaking of the MLPS it returns 3770-4607 ohms if you're in park, 660-807 if you're in neutral, and 190-232 if you're in drive.
The last pin in each row of 20 pins on the PCM (pins 20, 40 and 60) is black or black with light green and should be run to ground. In fact any black or black with light green wire should be grounded along with the bare shield drain wire in the shielded bundles linking the Cam sensor, crank sensor, DIS and I think the coil pack also. This shield and drain wire is to collect and send to ground the electromagnetic interference generated by the spark plugs and their wire, the starter's windings and the starter cable, and to a lesser extent the coils of the injectors. Shielding and grounding is important in these engines.
I ran separate relays to power all of the high current needs of The Other Woman, like the fuel pump, cooling fans, lights, ignition, nitrous, extra coolant pump. But I think that it is perfectly allright to use the stock Constant Control Relay Module., just expensive to replace if one relay goes bad.
I'm sure there is more, but like Gary, I've forgotten more than I ever knew in the first place.
Tom
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krek
ChumpCar Racer
THANK YOU!
Once it's caged, clutch replaced and running again I'll tackle this with your instructions and the shop manual... should be a fun day.
Once it's caged, clutch replaced and running again I'll tackle this with your instructions and the shop manual... should be a fun day.
krek
ChumpCar Racer
Two plus years later and we've never accomplished this.
Does anyone sell a stand alone harness?
Does anyone sell a stand alone harness?
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Not that I know of. What do you have as far as wiring right now? It's not really difficult if you break it down to individual systems. If I knew how to draw with photoshop or something like that, I could make you a simple drawing.
Tom
Tom
I doing mine using page 24 and 25 of this link.
http://taurus-club.ru/manuals/Ford_Taurus_1994_wiring.pdf
Yours may not be this year. I found I can change the year model in the link and get other years. I enlarged both pages to poster size. With age comes bad eyesight for small wiring details. It has wire colors etc and what wires hook to what. Then do like mention. Keep removing and start it every once inawhile. You are luck. Engine in car. I relocated engine into a differant car and building harness. Maurice
http://taurus-club.ru/manuals/Ford_Taurus_1994_wiring.pdf
Yours may not be this year. I found I can change the year model in the link and get other years. I enlarged both pages to poster size. With age comes bad eyesight for small wiring details. It has wire colors etc and what wires hook to what. Then do like mention. Keep removing and start it every once inawhile. You are luck. Engine in car. I relocated engine into a differant car and building harness. Maurice
