encryptshun
New Member
update.** well SuperchargedSHOguy came out today and pulled the car apart and realized that my headgaskets are infact NOT blown. i'll update more when we finish i have pics too
OMG no! please help now!
- Thread starter encryptshun
- Start date
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ShadetreeSHOguy
Postwhore
Pfft, chris doesnt know anything about SHO's!
It lives. Replaced valve cover and plug well seals. Water pump was leaking and shot and throwing the pulley out of balance, so we replaced that as well. Misc coolant leaks but it ran good with only a TPS high voltage code when we left last night. No water what-so-ever in the oil, there were leaks in the hoses by the thermostat and from the water pump onto the CPS wigging out the car.
I'm glad you got it figured out.
encryptshun
New Member
Yeah seriously thank you chris and jason so much, you guys are life savers, i think i remember the only other stuff that was needed was you recommending the rod bearings and i need to get the belt tensioner? am i correct? oh and all the pictures that i took didnt come out very well 
i guess my new phone isnt so cool afterall
i guess my new phone isnt so cool afterall
Yeah seriously thank you chris and jason so much, you guys are life savers, i think i remember the only other stuff that was needed was you recommending the rod bearings and i need to get the belt tensioner? am i correct? oh and all the pictures that i took didnt come out very well
Rod bearings, RCM automotive has them as well as other site supporters. Your timing belt tensioner is shot, causing the ticking below 2000 rpms. Eventually some new plugs and wires. That is all I can remember buddy to get it back up to par.
Frisbeeguy
Member
I just came accross this thread & found it so cool that y'all helped out in such a huge way.
Is the car still running & have you done the recommended maintenance?
Is the car still running & have you done the recommended maintenance?
You'll find much of the same throughout the forum. We love helping eachother. 
I sent Phil another ircm because his was dying but to my knowledge his SHO is still kicking. Hopefully he calls me soon to do the rod bearings and a timing belt tensioner.
This is awsome. His only options were to park it or have it hauled to a mechanic but thanks to this site he's back on the road.
I would not have bought my SHO if it weren't for the fact that I know I can count on this forum for info/help. I'd probably be driving something reliabe like a Focus or a Fusion - my wife would be happy but I'd be bored.
I would not have bought my SHO if it weren't for the fact that I know I can count on this forum for info/help. I'd probably be driving something reliabe like a Focus or a Fusion - my wife would be happy but I'd be bored.
SHO GoDz 89
True Sleeper
This is a common thing amongst SHO owners. All of them seem to always be more than willing to help others.
Which is more than I could say about other car forums where they would tell you to "f**k off noobie" or "I'll do it for $xxxx"
We have a great community here at SHOforum.
rdainwa
New Member
Glad to hear it wasn't as bad as it seemed.... But white smoke in fomr the exhaust is usually a tell tale sign the coolant has entered the combustion camber.
I'll share a lesson learned long ago.... while in the Army in Germany, I had the pleasure of driving all sorts of aluminum head engines of a multitude of makers.
In several cases, I had found low coolant while driving for a variety of reasons and couldn't figure out why, in the end, I seemed to always have a blown head gasket until I befriended an old German guy who was a shade-tree mechanic from WWII or farther back ( I always called him Herman... though I think his name was Fritz or something).
Seems that when an aluminum head/block is hot, and you add coolant, things, especially heads, start cooling faster than other things, like the block. In most all cases, this results in a warped head or even worse, a cracked head.
The lesson learned from Herman the German was to never add coolant to an engine with aluminum heads/block until it is cooled down. If it is overheating, you'll just have to take your chances and let it cool down on its own rather than helping it warp or crack by adding 40 - 80 degree water/coolant to a nearly 200 degree aluminum engine.
Hope it helps... TTFN and good luck.
I'll share a lesson learned long ago.... while in the Army in Germany, I had the pleasure of driving all sorts of aluminum head engines of a multitude of makers.
In several cases, I had found low coolant while driving for a variety of reasons and couldn't figure out why, in the end, I seemed to always have a blown head gasket until I befriended an old German guy who was a shade-tree mechanic from WWII or farther back ( I always called him Herman... though I think his name was Fritz or something).
Seems that when an aluminum head/block is hot, and you add coolant, things, especially heads, start cooling faster than other things, like the block. In most all cases, this results in a warped head or even worse, a cracked head.
The lesson learned from Herman the German was to never add coolant to an engine with aluminum heads/block until it is cooled down. If it is overheating, you'll just have to take your chances and let it cool down on its own rather than helping it warp or crack by adding 40 - 80 degree water/coolant to a nearly 200 degree aluminum engine.
Hope it helps... TTFN and good luck.
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