My Engine rebuild... NEW PICS PAGE 5

[SHO_DOODmorrris]

Hey guys, its finnaly happening lol im rebuilding my spare angine and getting it ready for my eaton! so trying to amke a long story short i have a few choices to make and need as much input as i can get. TIA

3.0l out of a 91 plus with 200 000KM on it (124 000 miles) it had the original gold looking rtv crap on the pan so i guess rodbearings havent been done but they are in decent condition.

First off, im down to bareblock now and its ready for hottank. i talked with one of my teacherrs at school today abou *** and he is saying that i probably need new pistons if we bore it a little and i agree, no one likes piston slap... obviously i dont want to spend too much money but i don tlike cheaping out so im kinda torn. We havent done measurments yet (tomorrow) so i dont know how out of round it is if at all but it looks to be pretty good, crosshatches are still there no problem and there isent and scoring on the piston skirts at all but only measurments will tell...

Heres the deal, IF i need to bore it, i would bore it to 3.2 obviously (its a 3.o block) but my teacher wants to know what the wall thickness will be if i bore it to 3.2. if this happens im thinking why not go balls deep into it and just buy forged pistons.

Im only going to run around 6 pounds so it dosent need forged but if i ever go turbo (i probably will be addicted to boost so its most likley gonna happen one day) then i wont have to upgrade my pistons.

anyways im babbling now so heres my choices:

1. If nothing is out of round and there is no scoring or problems whatsoever im just goint to hone it and rering...
2. if things arent perfect or within specs, bore it to 3.2 and be done with it, buy new pistons and dont look back.
3. regardless of measurments bore it to 3.2 and buy new pistons...

i guess im answering my own questions here but i want to know what you guys would do. and dont just say bore it to 3.2 and get forged cause its the best, i already know that lol.

plz let me know what the wall thickness is on a 3.0 bored to 3.2 my teach and the machine shop want to know for durability reasons. thanks

-M

 

[yamahaSHO]

Bore to 3.2L, install forged pistons and faggidaboutit!



Reasoning: You sound like you have intentions of boosting. Although 6PSI isn't much, forged pistons will give you a better margin of safety and run cooler. With that said, you'll be able to extract a lot of power out of just 6 PSI. To top that, you won't be happy with 6 PSI... I was going to stay with 6 PSI... Now I'm at 16 PSI.

 

[Phoenix]

If the 3.0 is out of specs is there a 3.2 available near you? If I had the choice , I would rather have a 3.2 then a bored 3.0 into a 3.2. But thats my opinion. The rods are beefier on the 3.2.

Just some food for thought.

 

[yamahaSHO]

I would much rather have a seasoned 3L to bore to 3.2L than just have a factory 3.2L. There is far less chance of the cylinder wall shape changing, espcially if you torque down a plate on the block to simulate the stresses of the head being bolted on. You'd be better off with boring the 3L.

 

[SHO_DOODmorrris]

I agree. could you tell me what the bore is on the stock 3.0 and then what it would eb when bored to 3.2? also whats the wall thickness on the bored 3.0? thanks guy

-Mitch

 

[yamahaSHO]

I don't know the wall thickness... Not sure anyone really knows. If you're wanting to know if it's safe to punch out a 3L, I can tell you that it is. Some of the most powerful SHO's have bored 3L.

Off hand, I don't remember what the bore is. If you buy pistons, your bore will be configured from that. I do know the information is present on this forum.

 

[SHO_DOODmorrris]

yeah i know about that my teacher want to know what the wall thickness will be and the machine shop wont do it if they dont think the block will have durability issues... i know it will be fine but w/e ill find a 3.2 piston on joshes site and show him the size and we will go from ther i guess. ima need to order them like asap though cause it says on the site 5-7 weeks for delivery... if it takes that long i might go with somone faster if diamond or kiethblack is faster. thansk again guys.

-Mitch


-P.S... i WILL be the youngest boosted sho owner!! (under18 untill july 16) wewt.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Don't **** yourself.

 

[silversho89]

I thought that if you are boring a 3.0l block, you need a 93-95 block because they did have thicker cylinder walls to accomodate for the production of the 3.2l's? I can't remember for sure chances are, im wrong. Haven't been on here much lately.

Rob

 

[yamahaSHO]

That's a myth. I know of at least one 650hp SHO using a gen 1 block punched out to a 3.2L.

 

[NovaSS]

all the walls were about are about .250 thick.. requardless. The walls on the 94-95 3.0 are not any thicker then a 3.2 walls. Yes the bore is bigger on the 3.2 but the wall thickness is about the same ..

Yes you can bore a 94-95 3.0 to 3.2 specs, a .118 over bore as I remeber ( its been done many times) but it would not be my choice for a supercharged engine.

 

[zblackbeast]

According to the Ford service manual.

Piston Bore
Diameter.. 3.0......89.000-89.030mm (3.5039-3.5051in)
3.2......92.000-92.030mm (3.6220-3.6232in)

As far as Cylinder wall thickness goes i have no idea, and its not in the book. But a 3.0 to 3.2 bore is obviously saf considering what everyone else has said, the most powerful SHO's are all pretty much bored 3.0's....

 

[SHO_DOODmorrris]

well my block is a 3.0 from a 91 but from what everyone is saying its same shit different pile just do it. right? well i guess thats that. thanks for the help guys and as for the dont **** yourself comment, ill respectfully ignore that.

 

[1995SHO9]

I don't know, I've heard that the earlier 3.0 wall thicknesses are thinner than the later 3.0's from several very respected SHO peoples...

Anyways, Just bore out the 3.0 to a 3.2 and go with Josh's low comp forged pistons. Because like staated above, your going to get dead tired with 6 psi. I know when my car had 6 psi when we first started off, I was very displeased with it. Then bumped it up to 12psi, then up and up....

Thats how it goes. But to recap, bore the thing out and let us know how your project goes if you actually go though with it.

~Best of luck, Johnathon~

 

[yamahaSHO]

I still don't think anyone has taken Gary's advice and sonic checked the block.

 

[1995SHO9]

I still don't think anyone has taken Gary's advice and sonic checked the block.

Bah, that BS isn't needed, just bore the bitch out....

 

[SHO_DOODmorrris]

I still don't think anyone has taken Gary's advice and sonic checked the block.

Before machining i think i will get her magnafluzed just for *****. i may have to liquidate some more of my stuff (car audio equip some remote control stuff etc...) to make some money for this bitch, i have a couple grand i think so far but pistons eats up like half and gaskets are like 600 almost so almost through lol, still need tweecer RT FPR bearings etc... fark these engines are expencive but its gonna be worth it. on another note, how much can an eaton M90 put out safely?

 

[yamahaSHO]

Depending on how far you want to take it, it can add up. I think I spent about $5k on my build, but that is with brand new heads, larger valves, stiffer springs, cams, pistons, reworked crank/rods, etc. My recommendation would be not to rush anything.

 

[SHO_DOODmorrris]

Depending on how far you want to take it, it can add up. I think I spent about $5k on my build, but that is with brand new heads, larger valves, stiffer springs, cams, pistons, reworked crank/rods, etc. My recommendation would be not to rush anything.

Problem is im doing it at school as my mechanics 30 engine project. its ready for hottank now and then out to machining... i will probably get the crank turned just because i can so i know im starting with a 100% smooth crank. i will order the pistons asap and i will be ordering my gasket and seal kit form rcm this weekend (tomorow). while my block and crank is out being machined i will do head work, mayby i will do some porting myself, who knows. dont have the money for cams so that might be an addon later. so i have a couple months to hve it rebuilt, in the car and have my S/C done as well. i expect the car to be down for 2-3 weeks from the time i lift my engine out to me starting to tune it.

I also plan to weld my diff so that it holds up to a litle bit of wheelspin, till i have enough money to replace it and my clutch.

 

[somedude_001]

thanks for the help guys and as for the dont **** yourself comment, ill respectfully ignore that.

That was not intended as a insult. Just be careful when boosted these car can be a real handful sometimes.

and gaskets are like 600 almost so almost through lol,

head gaskets are made by felpro now so they are were around 150 when I bought mine last spring. also keep in mind you do NOT have to replace your valve cover gaskets just use RTV. It will save you a bundle of money.

i will probably get the crank turned just because i can so i know im starting with a 100% smooth crank.

do not have your crank turned. They are surface hardened, so if it is machined you are removing the hardening and that is how you snap a crank if you decide to put down some serous power later down the road...

edit: I really want to see some eaton powered madness on video!