YamahaSHO Problem Found!!! **Updated with more Pics!!!**

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yamahaSHO

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Well, today I finally got the car together(still waiting on BBB's, so I had to throw some stock butterflies on :mad: ) and fired her up. Started right up, that made me happy. After going over our checks and making sure nothing is going wrong, the car started to warm up and idle.

Here is where the problem comes in... The idle was/is very rough, you can really feel it and see it in the dash. It *seems* to affect all cylinders. After about 2200 rpm, the motor is smooth as can be.

Now on to driveability... After starting the car, it will idle rough. when I start moving, the driving is somewhat normal(considering I now have a lightweight flywheel). If I get into it, it seems to have some power(harder to tell when you are the one driving and nothing to compare to you), but I am not sure if it has all its power. While driving, say 5th gear and I need to stop, I push in the clutch and the idle will drop and stumble a bit. It has even stalled a few times. If I were to brake from speed and let the idle slowly go down(keep it in gear), then it won't die, but still stumble. If I were to rev it up rather quickly and let off the gas, it will stumble for a few seconds trying to idle, may sometimes die as well.

What I did to the car(car ran perfect before mods).... In the last 3 weeks(motor mods), I have installed new rod bearings, stage 1 cams, valve stem seals, gasket matched heads, Eh runners, crankcase evacuation(PCV routed to exhuast, yes I plugged the TB), UDP's, 190lph fuel pump, silicon hoses, and some sensors and other stuff that I'm sure would not cause this.

My first thoughts were a vacuum leak, then maybe a ground or a sensor.... Then the thought of maybe the timing is off. Well, I have not had a chance to check the codes yet, but I will do that first thing tomorrow. I also have not had a chance to check vacuum lines and such(too busy having fun with the Quaife and new suspension!). About the timing... we double and triple checked the chains... I think those are good, but if it were the timing, I would say its the belt, here is why... We did not take off the lower timing belt cover to set the timing, we set the crank to TDC and the cams to TDC as well. Then we lined up the belt on the cams(not really needed this route). Next we rotated the motor twice, stopped at the first line and tightened the belt. Then we rotated 2 more times and then again. Every time the crank was at TDC, as was the cams. In theory, that would make the timing on and I believe it is... But this problem has me second guessing myself.

From the top of my head, thats what I have so far. Like I said above, I have not had a chance to poke my nose around and figure out the problem. The car was running great before mods... Also, I am running an LPM, but that has not been touched through the whole process.

Any help is a blessing! TIA!

EDIT: THE CCV IS CONNECTED AS NORMAL AND THE PCV IS RUNNING THROUGH THE EXHAUST... I WAS JUST NOTIFIED THAT MAY BE CAUSING A PROBLEM AS IT IS PULLING THE METERED AIR THROUGH AND RIGHT INTO THE EXHAUST. ANY THOUGHT?(not yelling, just trying to get attention at the botom ;) )

Now on to today's pics!
1.JPG

2.JPG

3.JPG
 

AutoSHO

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My thoughts were that by leaving the valve cover line connected and running the PCV through the exhaust, you are allowing air that has already been metered to be pulled through the crankcase (or blown back into the intake tract) causing a rich or lean condition.
 

yamahaSHO

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Ferendon said:
It's a shot in the dark, but I've heard that light weight flywheels cause rough idling, and even dying.
Thanks, but I am almost positive that the flywheel is not causing the problem.
 

PROPHET

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The LPM has been tuned for all the mods or needs to be dyno tuned?

The car is going to be amazing, nice job Jason and good luck.
 

twr

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Jason,

Try pulling the LPM and running the stock MAF to see what happens. I'm not throughly convinced about the blow by (metered air) going into the exhaust being a problem. I could see it causing a slight problem, but not that much. Good luck :thumbs_u: I know how frustrating it can be when things don't go as planned.
 

Off Road SHO

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Jason,

I'm with Chris on this one (again!), Is there a way to temporarily put the CCV back into the throttle body?

Tom
 

yamahaSHO

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Terry, I was already running the stock MAF.... The LPM has not been touched since it was running fine.

Tom and Chris... I disconnectd the CCV and it did nothing.
 

yamahaSHO

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Ran the codes... I *think* I got a 25


That says the "knock sensor is not tested".... hm
 

AutoSHO

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Jason, your car should be spitting out 3 digit codes.

If it gives a "knock sensor not tested" code, it means it didn't like the goose test you did.
 

F-22 Raptor SHO

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I think its the center caps myself.

Actually, the whole PVC reroute thing has me convinced thats what it is.

you have less than 48 hours to get this thing fixed my brother
 

yamahaSHO

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Did the KOEO codes... 511 and 542(I think, as I don't have the paper with me)....

Took out the LPM... still rough. It MOST DEFINITELY has power! Checked all the vaccum line... seem to be fine. Disconnected the PCV and let it suck in unmetered air.... but that did not change anything. Still stumped and starting to get frustrated!
 

AutoSHO

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Jason,

Do you have a fuel pressure tester? Perhaps you got a 255 mis-boxed as a 190 lph and it is creating a rich condition at idle.
 

SHO92

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I had a vacuum leak that I couldn't find at first. The vacuum hose that connects to the front on the IAB, and rubs on the intake manifold right where the front surge tank meets the rear on the TB side. That vacuum hose goes down into a goldish colored canister about the size of a film canister and then onto the charcoal canister. The gold canister has 2 vacuum fittings and 1 electrical fitting. The hose that went from the IAB to the gold canister was disconnected at the canister. I had a ruff idle and intermitent stalling. It wasn't ruff enough to shake the dash though. Just an idea and something easy to check.
 

yamahaSHO

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I disconnected each vacuum line one by one and put my finger on it.... didn't work...

Yes, I reset the compter and took the LPM out.

The idle is irratic... VERY rough and bounces all over the place. Likes to die if I do not let the RPM down slowly. Going to run the codes again now that I have some male connectors... couldn't keep the pins in and kept reseting the codes.
 

IT-Purrrs

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What flywheel did you put in there Jason?

My car has almost the same symtoms as yours except that my car doesnt not stall. The idle in my car is very rough especially when it is cold. It will actually shake the hood and the dash, but as soon as i give it a little rev it smoothes out and runs like butter.

I had people check out my engine when i first got the car because it was shaking north to sound pretty violently, so i thought the car was missing or it had some sort of major problem. At one of the Michigan/Ohio meets i had about four people stand over my car trying to figure what the heck it was that was making my engine shake like that. Perry from Ohio finally asked me what flywheel was in there andi replied that it was a 8lb flywheel. He said that was it, a very light flywheel like that does not have the proper syntrifical (sp?) force to keep it running smooth at idle.

Try starting your car and after it shakes and give a rough idle like that give it a little rev and see if it smoothes itself out. This still does not explain the stalling problem, but this is just what i experience and am used to in my car.
 

James Downing

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Did you try plugging the CCV line?

When its disconnected from the TB is there air coming in or out of the crankcase side of the line? What about when you rev it?

Im thinking the exhaust is creating negative pressure in your crank, and sucking the air out of your intake. Yet maybe at idle the line is acting as a leak, and allowing exhaust gasses into your intake.
 

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