Y pipe debate Magnaflow vs SHO Source

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Tactical SHO

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I'm at the crossroads trying to figure out if I should go with the catted MagnaFlow or the catted equal length y-pipe from Sho Source. Is there a difference in performance and sound thanks. It's about $100 more for the SHO source one I believe. Thanks. I'm thinking about running supper 44s flowmasters.
 

itwonder

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I have the Magnaflow 23355, and it is good enough; gets the job done. It will not line up with the stock front pipe though; I had to have a new pipe made from the resonator forward to the Y-pipe. IMO, the SHOsource pipe is a better product, and I think the cost difference is well justified, but unfortunately for me, its shipping costs all the way to the east coast swung my decision to Magnaflow because I could buy it locally at a good price. My preference would be for the SHOsource pipe without cats, if located in a non-emission test area, which I am. I do not think either brand of pipe will significantly effect noise, though of course the catless pipe will be louder. The resonator, or lack thereof, makes a big difference in noise and raspy sound. I am running inexpensive Walker 17906 mufflers on the stock cat-back pipes. The sound exceeded my expectations; somewhat louder and more mellow than stock; very nice overall and not intrusive in the cabin,with only a tinge of rasp. Search should find a post about the installation. I was not trying to create a performance exhaust; just staying close to stock and suitable for a daily driver.
 
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luigisho

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I don't think the performance difference will be noticeable. Not sure about the sound. Fitment and price may be the difference. You will notice sound difference with both vs stock and probably nvh. Even more so with aftermarket mufflers
 

sperold

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The Shosource Y-pipe has a lot of advantages over anything else.
When I got mine, they gave me a better price on shipping than is advertised, so inquire about that before you throw in the towel.

The big difference is the Shosource unit is delivered in sections that are fitted to clamp together, so the shipping box is smaller, and when it comes time to install, is 100 times easier. Each section goes in individually, so it becomes a one man job.

I did mine on my driveway by myself.

I too, moaned and groaned about the price, but I quickly had a change of heart. The Shosource system is stainless steel, and I don't know for sure about the others.

The pieces go together so precisely that you don't need to clamp them right away. If you still have the brutal dynomometer e-test, I would recommend not clamping them. Mine went through the test the first year, but 2 years later they failed. I never changed the converters as our area went to the sniffer at 2 rpm zone and it passes that with ease.

With the standard preformed units, you have trouble drawing the down pipes up to the engine manifolds, and you need a guy (or a whole lot of jackstands) to hold that far end up in the air while you aim-up the front ****** bolt holes to the manifolds.
 
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Tactical SHO

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Can you really tell if low end torque is lost by going with the catless y-pipe I'm thinking about adding a Flowmaster resonator to control the rasp on my stock cat back. Won't the Flowmaster resonator and Flowmaster chambered exhaust give it enough back pressure.
 

Tactical SHO

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I want to order my y pipe form SHO source this week and buy it with confidence knowing about the right pipe. I'm leaning towards getting the cattless.
 

Tactical SHO

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No not in my county. We don't need w check and I have the car plated as collector plates that avoid e check.
 

Irish Pride

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I have the SHO Source equal length in catless and catted. By far, I like the catted on better. I used to swap them out once a year so I could get my 89 thru inspection but the rasp from the catless became too much for me to bare. My 89 has a full Borla exhaust with resonator and the rasp was still too much. In my opinion, I get better low end throttle response with the catted one too. Buy the catless if you feel that is the direction you need to go, just hold off on welding it for a while. That way you can always add cats if you want. The only negative thing I can say about the equal length pipe is the rear pipe comes down right in front of the oil drain plug. If you fit it wrong it makes oil changes a little more complicated. Before you install the pipe swap out your stock drain plug for a shortened one.
 

Tactical SHO

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O was planning on getting the catted first but started to change my mind and thought I could control the Rasp with the flowmaster resonator but it looks like going with the catted one for sound and low end torque. Thanks again unless I want to sell me your y pipe I'm open to it. Thanks
 

Tactical SHO

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I'm getting my flowmaster installed on the SHO rite now. I'm also going to get the flowmaster resonator installed and see how that controls the rasp. I'm going with a electronic exhaust set up so the driver side is flowmaster and the passenger side is is going to remain stock so for cruising around it'll be quiet.
 

sperold

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Before you install the pipe swap out your stock drain plug for a shortened one.

Very good advice.

If you leave the system un-welded and un-clamped for awhile, you will find a position that results in being able to remove a standard drain plug. The drain plug is very close to the exhaust, but there is enough room after you have wiggled the system around to suit this situation.

If I had known about a shorter drain plug, I would have got one for a just-in-case situation.
 

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