Wow she gets hot

[Liquid_force]

Finally got my bluetooth obd2 adapter and torque app up and running and tracked water temps today.
Ext temp about 90.
First drive was about 30 miles - 90+% highway. 60-75mph
A/C set to 72.
It didn't take long to get to about 215, and held pretty consistent in that range.
It was easy to see it rise a couple degrees going up a hill, and fall a few coasting down one.
After the 30 mile drive it sat for a little less than an hour.
Next drive was in moderate city traffic for about 15 min - a few lights - mainly 35-40mph.
It got as high as 235, and was in the top 10-15% of the C/H gauge.
At one point I shut off the A/C to get it back to 225 or so.
High speed fans are turning on at about 225, but in stop and go they just can't seem to keep up.
Fluid level is good. I flushed it around a year ago and the fluid looked pretty clean.
Pump belt is snug. I think there may be one SMALL leak (as in a drip once in a while) at the hard to reach end of one of the oil cooler hoses. T-stat works.
Generally, I think the typical stuff is in serviceable condition.

I guess I'm left with the radiator itself. I was hoping I could avoid having to remove it, but I guess that's the next logical step.
Get it out -- hope it's dirty - and hope a quick power wash will clear it?

Anyone had much success cleaning it out w/o removing it?

 

[sperold]

In the old days, the copper fins would separate from the coolant tubes and you would be left with reduced cooling. That does not happen with an aluminum rad core.
The AC unit in front of the rad could have some stuff in it, but it is well shrouded by the front bumper cover so that is a long shot. Take a look to see if the fins have been mishandled and squashed flat - another long shot.
I would buy a new thermostat and a thermometer and do a stove-top test to see when it opens. Then I would remove and test your thermostat.
If I took out the radiator, it would be to replace it with one with more core rows.

 

[Racer X]

Doesn't the Gen 3 have that issue where leaves and debris collects between the radiator and the A/C condenser, blocking airflow?

I'd remove the radiator and pressure wash the crap off of it, as well as back flush it to remove anything that may have accumulated in the cores.

 

[stephen newberg]

With over 200k on the clock, I have never had any sort of heating problem with mine. But I agree that I would check the thermostat for irregular operation, or just replace it, as they are not expensive.

pax, smn

 

[Liquid_force]

I tried to cover these little things in the OP...
Had tstat out about a month ago to do the boiling water test. Worked fine.
Actually BOUGHT a stant replacement, but it seemed so much lower quality (light/small) than the original I just replaced the gasket and put the original back in.
Flushed it appx 1 yr ago -- saw no signs of dirty water/anti-freeze. Looked surprisingly clean.

Also had condenser/radiator half way disassembled about a yr ago doing tq converter and adding trans cooler as well as bypassing radiator trans cooler and steel lines. I don't recall any significant build up of debris, but wasn't inspecting for that either.
I can see a few fibers looking up from below w/good light so maybe it's just dirty.

 

[sperold]

If you want to do some more experimenting, try the suggestions from EricTheCarGuy
(.com) and he has a U-Tube video titled How To Solve an Engine Overheat Condition. One of the interesting things explained is how to determine if you have combustion gas in the coolant which will raise the coolant temperature.

 

[illSHOyou]

Finally got my bluetooth obd2 adapter and torque app up and running and tracked water temps today.
Ext temp about 90.
First drive was about 30 miles - 90+% highway. 60-75mph
A/C set to 72.
It didn't take long to get to about 215, and held pretty consistent in that range.
It was easy to see it rise a couple degrees going up a hill, and fall a few coasting down one.
After the 30 mile drive it sat for a little less than an hour.
Next drive was in moderate city traffic for about 15 min - a few lights - mainly 35-40mph.
It got as high as 235, and was in the top 10-15% of the C/H gauge.
At one point I shut off the A/C to get it back to 225 or so.
High speed fans are turning on at about 225, but in stop and go they just can't seem to keep up.
Fluid level is good. I flushed it around a year ago and the fluid looked pretty clean.
Pump belt is snug. I think there may be one SMALL leak (as in a drip once in a while) at the hard to reach end of one of the oil cooler hoses. T-stat works.
Generally, I think the typical stuff is in serviceable condition.

I guess I'm left with the radiator itself. I was hoping I could avoid having to remove it, but I guess that's the next logical step.
Get it out -- hope it's dirty - and hope a quick power wash will clear it?

Anyone had much success cleaning it out w/o removing it?

Install a 2000-2003 Corvette 160 T-stat into the car and set the fans for turn on at 192. Your car will run typical in the 188 range on the highway. You want just the thermostat itself, no thermostat housing or anything like that. Everything will run cooler and allow for increase spark advance before detonation.

Thanks,

Sean

PS This mod will have little benefit if you cant adjust your fan set points. It will improve your highway temp, just not the stop and go as much.

 

[NebraskaSHO]

I once had my gauge almost max out. I had been on several miles of dirt roads (and followed other cars) during the Sandhills Open Road Challenge. The roads were very, very dusty. I had to pull over, let the car cool off and then slow down until I made it to the next town to use the car wash.

My radiator was packed full of really fine dust.