Would a bad IAB......

[SHOtimer]

Would it cause intermittent hard starts..or long cranks. If it maybe was wearing out and didn't always do its job correctly. I just did a 60k...with plugs, wires...w/ a new ECT also. And it still suffers..from this. It is probably once a day...more or less...not nearing everytime i start it. But, I was just wondering if that would be possible.
Doug

 

[93nighthawk]

No, it would not cause hard starts, it would cause horible idle. My guess is you have a clogged fuel filter or the fuel pump is starting to go. Have you tried to pull any codes?

Eric

 

[Jr's Sho]

You described the exact same problem I had recently, in fact, a lot of people on here suffer from extended cranking times. A higher flow fuel pump took care of my problem and it hasn't come back since. And boy was I glad when it got fixed, now I can rest.

 

[SHOtimer]

My brand new high flow Walbro fuel pump only has 4k on it, fuel filter was replaced at the same time. This problem exsisted before I replaced the pump, I hoped that would fix it, but it didn't. My 60k didn't fix it either, I am becoming desperate it is annoying and VERY embarassing, especially when you brag about your SHO, if you know what I mean.
Doug

 

[Mike Kopstain]

A Bad IAB valve could definetly cause the problem. The valve is the engine's sole source for air when the gas pedal is not pressed, so if it is sticking closed, then the car will crank, might catch a litte, and then it will die immediately. To verify that this is or isn't your problem, press the gas down about a quarter of the way and try starting the car. If it starts up ok, then the IAB is your problem. Good luck.

 

[SHOtimer]

Thank you, I will try that the next few days and see how it goes, hope this is the source of my problems. Thank you again.
Doug

 

[EZ4U2ENVY]

Just a thought- when i had cranking problems- i replaced CIS... camshaft identification sensor or PIP some people call it that at auto places- this caused my long starts - its not expensive nor hard to replace- so it aint bad just to see.

 

[projectSHO89]

FYI, PIP is the CRANK sensor signal. CID is the cam sensor signal.

Just trying to keep terminology straight.

Yes, a faulty ISC/BPA can cause starting problems like Mikey said.

The cam sensor has also been know for it's problems in causing intermittent no start problems.

Steve

 

[SHOtimer]

I am fairly certain it isn't my Cam sensor..the old one only had 5k on it when i replaced it, thinking it was bad. And this one only has 4k on it. So, I have almost ruled that out. I have driven it a bit, and holding the pedal down a bit has helped, it hasn't taken a long time to start when I do that. But, I will try it for a few days, and see what my results yeild. Thanx, if I do have a bad IAB, where should I look for a new one, FPN, or AZ, and how much $?
Doug

 

[dudev]

Hello everyone. I’ve been “lurking” on your forum for about a year and finally registered today.
I have a white 93 ATX SHO with 106k. I have OK power through RPM range but it misses slightly at idle. Also it starts OK about 50% of the time – the bad times it needs the accelerator about half way down to start and then while it’s warming up I have to keep my foot on the gas or it will die.
Took it to the Ford garage here. They said that they “couldn’t get any of the codes off the car and get this – charged me $400 for “trying” all day. Then they said that the after-market LPM that the SHO shop supplied probably “fried” my computer and it would cost at least $350 to get another and then they would “start from there” Unbelievable!

I do think that I have a fuel pressure problem. But what do you guys have to say about the Ford guy telling me that they “couldn’t get the codes” ??
Thanks for any info


Upgrade history:
New spark plug wires, 80mm MAF, CrankP.S., CamP.S., LPM from the SHO Shop, ripped out cats (I live in Idaho – I can get away with it) replaced stock mufflers with Flow masters. K&N cone. valves adjusted.

<small>[ January 20, 2003, 07:10 PM: Message edited by: dudev ]</small>

 

[luigisho]

To start, I would rip out the chip and put the oem maf back on. Reset the idle and take it from there.

Since you've been lurking for a good amount of time, I assume you know about where to go to see how to check your own codes.

<small>[ January 20, 2003, 07:06 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>

 

[BenSwanson]

dudev-the codes for your car are really easy to check u should do it yourself

 

[rangerj]

DUDEV,

I just replaced a computer in a car with the same symtoms you describe. I could not get codes from the computer either. I thought my scanning equiptment was faulty. I had it checked on-line, and it was fine.

After spending all day checking everything else, I put in a new computer and everything went back to normal. The computer was about $170, if I remember right.

I would follow the advice above and try the old "chip" first. If that does not work, get a new computer. It is not to difficult to remove and replace.

Lastly, IMHO there is absolutely no need what-so-ever for an aftermarket "performance chip" in a street car. rangerj

 

[smacd]

SHO Timer,

I am also thinking that your problem lies in your fuel pump. My '89 had the same symptoms when i first bought it. I noticed the fuel pump seemed noisy (the first sign of trouble). The first hot weather I encountered the pump failed. I have never had the same symptoms since I replaced the pump 3 yrs and 75,000 miles ago. Best of luck.

 

[dudev]

Thank very much for all the info. I'll let you know what happens.

 

[SolidState]

Lastly, IMHO there is absolutely no need what-so-ever for an aftermarket "performance chip" in a street car.

Really? I was seriously considering a Ted B LPM to firm up the shifts in my ATX, raise the redline and play with the shift points. I also thought an LPM was mandatory for someone with a different MAF...

Care to shed some light?

 

[SHOtimer]

But, my new fuel pump is only 4k old, and it did this before i replaced it. Should i do that all over again?
Doug

 

[SHOtimer]

So, should I just buy a new entire fuel pump assembly from Ford, with all the bits and peices..(they include fuel return line check valve right?) and replace my fuel pump which is barely broken in? It is making a hissing noise, which it started doing after about 1k. Let me know what you think. Thanx
Doug

 

[smacd]

The only way to know for sure would be to hook up a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to the fuel pressure schrader valve on the fuel rail and watch the pressure when you turn on the key. Hopefully you can duplicate the concern while the gauge is hooked up. If the gauge does not build up pressure by the time the pump shuts off then either the pump itself is faulty or there is a leak in the system somewhere else causing the fuel to drain out of the lines.

Don't you love intermittent problems wink

 

[SHOtimer]

So, if I hook up a guage it should read 39-40 all the time. Includling before start, with key on pump running, and during idle. Thanx
Doug