Wont stay running- Pulled codes

[-DVP-]

I picked it up yesterday from getting the front end straightened out and drove it about 40 miles home. Well it has a few problems.

First off 92 MTX

Before I left it was idle surging but drove ok.

Got gas and left it on and the idle was fine. I turned it off to pump and when I left and stopped to turn out it died. Died every time after that when I took it out of gear.

Ran good otherwise. still had power. The guy I bought it from said it needed another FPR. They said its the third one they had on there and they all leaked. Is this common? or has anyone else had this problem? Needless to say I'm probably going to need to get one so if anyone has one let me know.

 

[-DVP-]

Any ideas? This is my first SHO so my knowledge is limited to say the least. Could it be the FPR? I was thinking the timing also but it runs strong and doesnt seem to be off. Any advice on things to check would help. I want to get it running right so I can start on the body work.

 

[itwonder]

SHO FPR is rather reliable. I suspect something else. Idle air control may need good cleaning. Pull codes. Clean MAF sensor. See if it runs better with MAF unplugged or not. When was fuel filter last changed, air filter? After doing all that, do the idle reset procedure: disconnect battery, head light switch on, wait 10 minutes, headlight switch off, connect battery. Start car and immediately turn on bright headlights and A/C on max. EEC will recompute proper idle. Did the owner work on it? It is possible he messed with the throttle plate stop screw on the TB, which looks like idle speed but it is not? That is not to be mesed with. If he did, you may need to do the base idle procedure found in the FSM.

 

[-DVP-]

SHO FPR is rather reliable. I suspect something else. Idle air control may need good cleaning. Pull codes. Clean MAF sensor. See if it runs better with MAF unplugged or not. When was fuel filter last changed, air filter? After doing all that, do the idle reset procedure: disconnect battery, head light switch on, wait 10 minutes, headlight switch off, connect battery. Start car and immediately turn on bright headlights and A/C on max. EEC will recompute proper idle. Did the owner work on it? It is possible he messed with the throttle plate stop screw on the TB, which looks like idle speed but it is not? That is not to be mesed with. If he did, you may need to do the base idle procedure found in the FSM.

When I bought it I picked it up from his mechanic's house. They had done quite a bit to it. All kinds of stuff over time. Damn, major thing I left out. They told me the motor is out of an 89. it is suppose to have 150 to 165 on it. The car has almost 201 on it.


Sure this is a dumb question but, where is the IAC? When I clean the MAF how should I do it? can I use SeaFoam on it? Never dealt with Mass Air set up before. Can I have the parts store pull the codes? Air filter is a K&N and it is clean. I'm going to change the FF anyways, oil change, and the little stuff.

So if the FPR are reliable then I wonder why they said all the ones they had leaked? I if is the install and not the FPR itself, which from what your saying seems very possible. If I can take it to the parts store and have them run it then Ill try and get away with that tomorrow. Its hard to get around without having the front of your car all there and cops that aren't too fond of you.

 

[-DVP-]

Ok I had time to make a trip home today and look at it a little more.

This is what I found.


I did see this when I picked it up but I thought I broke it all out when I hit it and pulled a piece out. I think that when I hit the top of the cover I might have move the TPS (think thats what it is. On the front of the TB in this pic). I did move it over just a bit tonight to see if there was any help and it did idle a little smoother. Un hooked the MAF and it got worse so it isn't too dirty but I'm going to clean it anyways.


The FPR is leaking that glaze on it is fuel.



I did let it idle for 5-10 mins and it was pretty even, There was a little movement of 100 or so RPMs nothing major. But when I would give it gas after I let off it would bog down to 500 then up to 1100 or so. I took a video of the tach and under the hood to get some audio (well try to)

Is this the Throttle plate stop screw? It is really lose when I touched it so it might have been messed with


There is a whisleing sound but I don't know where it is coming from. Sounds like the TB but I'm not sure.

After I let it idle for that time I decided to drive it down the driveway. It did fine, stayed running after i pushed in the clutch idle didn't change. So I took it out and up into the church lot that is connected to the street and it is lighted. didn't get out of first but it did ok. Backed it it and shut it off. Went to start it back up to move it back farther and it wasn't having it. 3 tries to get it to start and I had to give it gas on the third time. Idle was jumpy and after I backed up and pushed in the clutch it died.




Will try and get those videos up soon.

 

[itwonder]

IAC= Idle Air Control Forum search will find lots of info from past posts, such as how to clean the MAF and IAC

 

[-DVP-]

Also my Air bag light is flashing. Going to search that too.

 

[-DVP-]

KOEO

111 -systems pass
Stored codes? Both of these are ER codes. I did get the single flash then these so i figured they were stored codes from what Ive read
157 - MAF circuit below minimum voltage
542 - fuel pump secondary circuit failure

KOER

167- Insufficient throttle position change during dynamic response test.
225- Knock sensor (KS) not sensed during dynamic response test.
521- PSPS circuit did not change states.



Cylinder test

I did one on Saturday the first time I ran the codes and got 10 20 30 50 60. Some codes didnt come out right so I ran the again on Sunday after a "test" run and got code 9. Is there any reason this might have happened?

Also have a 12 on the air bag code... ABS low voltage code? That is what I found in my search.

 

[kikkinasphalt]

If i were you id PM STLSHO and see if he can tinker with it.

not sure what he would charge you, but i dont know of anyone in the area better with these cars.

GL sir.

Curt

 

[-DVP-]

If i were you id PM STLSHO and see if he can tinker with it.

not sure what he would charge you, but i dont know of anyone in the area better with these cars.

GL sir.

Curt

I am hoping to make it down there this week to get a FPR and bumper cover. The thing is the car is not tagged, no lights, and I seem to attract cops. Oh and funds are tight. That $100 ATX just went up to $300. So now I need to come up with that.

 

[itwonder]

The stop screw certainly looks messed with. The nut on it is the locknut and is suppose to be tight against the TB. You'll need to go through the base idle setup procedure. I've attached it from the FSM is a MS Word document.

 

[-DVP-]

So i looked up 521 PSPS and all i really came up with was that I probily missed the 10 sec window, Makes sense cause I forgot at first.

Should I be worried about the stored 542?

I think the MAF 157 was from when I unplugged it to see if it was causing the idle problem.

 

[38SHO]

disconnnect your battery run it awhile and re scan it.......... this will clear your codes, and now you can see if you really have a problem that you didn't cause earlier.

also see if your TB blade is black, or the area it touches.... clean that with a brush and throttle body clearner greatly! this might help.... if not sounds like you could have a bad Idle air control motor all together..........

is the actual FPR leaking? seems odd 3 would... we hardly ever have problems with them..... its probably a gasket leaking......

 

[-DVP-]

is the actual FPR leaking? seems odd 3 would... we hardly ever have problems with them..... its probably a gasket leaking......

See that is what I thought. Or he didnt install it right. But if you look at the pics (Not the greatest, taken at night) that glaze look is all fuel.

 

[Eric VerValin]

That was my first thought.. I'm thinking they didn't use a new copper washer. Granted I swapped a few around on Boat's car, and his didnt leak reusing the gasket / washer. But I can see how it *could.


I would also see if you can't get that stop screw (close) to where it should be on a stock car. Maybe using a tape measure to kind of eyeball it. That really does suck tho, if that moves, the computer / car will always be trying to 'fix' that.

 

[-DVP-]

Also have a 12 on the air bag code... ABS low voltage code?

What do I do about this? Is it a sensor that bad?