wont start

[pipefitter]

just bought my first sho, it is a 1994 sho with a 3.2. problem is it wont start. i have read a few forums and have already tried a few things. first it will crank all day long. it does not seem to be getting spark( removed plug and grounded it and had someone crank, nothing).next took coil pack and control module to auto-zone to get tested. coil pack tested good,no way to check module, bought new one , put back on car still will not start. (they did refund my money on module). the tach reads about 500 rpm when cranking. the woman i bought it from said it had been running fine and would just not start one day. there is no coolant in the crankcase (at least from the dipstick) the car has 168,000 miles the body is in excellent shape and i would love to start driving it, any help would be greatly apprecated. thanks
PAT

 

[AutoSHO]

Sounds like a Crank Position Sensor failure, although if it has a tach signal its possible there is another problem. Does the fuel pump cycle when you turn the key to "On"? Try checking the codes by using the procedure at http://www.midwestsho.com/

 

[betterman]

Make sure the DIS module isn't broken or accidentaly came unplugged. Other than that the only thing I could think of that wouldn't give you spark is a faulty crank position sensor or maybe a cam position sensor.

 

[pipefitter]

codes

How Do Pull Codes On 94 Sho With A Hand Held Code Reader? I Did Not See A Connector Under Drivers Side Dash. Does The Front Cover Have To Come Off To Get To The Crank Sensor Or Just Pull The Balancer. Thanks In Advance
Pat

 

[Dustin89]

I would check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. If you have ample pressure with the key on I would check codes. You say you have no spark and the tach jumps to 500. My car did the exact same thing and it was the CPS. I got up one morning and it would not start. I checked codes and nothing came up.

I too changed the coil pack and DIS with a spare and checked fuses along with fuel pressure. I figured the CPS was the problem. It was!

I did the 60K and changed CPS,timing belt,waterpump etc... Car runs great now.

Hope this helps.

 

[Dustin89]

You have to remove all drive belts,tensioners, pull balancer, then remove 3 timing covers to change CPS.

The plug to hook up code reader is under the hood pass side at firewall by above the power steering pump. Its in that area somewhere. Could be hanging down in also.

Dustin

 

[pipefitter]

Thanks For The Reply, Tried To Read The Codes With The Jumper Wire In Place( Nothing), The Fan Comes On,then The Fuel Pump, But The Check Engine Light Does Not Flash. Wonder If That Is Normal? Next I Will Read The Fuel Psi At The Rails, If That Looks Good I Am Going To Tear Into It And Change The Cps. Also Inspect Every Thing Else.seems Like A Lot Of Guys Have The Same No Spark Problem That Leads To The Cps. Thanks Again And I Will Let You Know What I Find, Hopefully Running .
Pat

 

[Rockledge]

Rangerj has put together a nice write-up on how to test the SHO's ignition system components/curcuit:

First of all a couple of precautions.

1. Always connect or disconnect connections or test leads with the ignition OFF. Before switching test functions, say from an ohms resistance test to a voltage test, disconnect the test leads.

2. Use only an LED (Light Emitting Diode) test lamp. Do not use a test probe with an incandescent bulb for testing circuits containing electronic components.

3. Use only a Digital Multi meter (DMM) to check circuits resistance or continuity on electronic (solid state) components. Use only a high quality DMM having high input impedance (at least 10 megohm). Do NOT use an analog (swing needle) meter to check circuit resistance or continuity on electronic components.

The above sage advice, regarding testing and working on electronic components, is attributable to Steve (projectSHO89), and SHOZ123. Thanks guys. All that having been said, here is how to test your CPS, (aka PIP or CKP) to control unit.

Connect a DMM or LED test light between the PIP wire (DB Dark Blue) and the negative battery terminal. Then crank the engine. The test light should blink, or the DMM should read between 3 to 7 volts. If NOT, the crank sensor, crank sensor POWER or GROUND, or wiring is faulty.

PIP signal is OK, then next test, SPOUT to DIS module. Connect DMM or LED to SPOUT wire( Y/LG Yellow Light Green stripe) and negative battery terminal, then crank engine. You should get 3 to 7 volts or the test light blinks. If NOT, the control unit or wiring( including connection) is faulty. If OK, next test.

Connect DMM or LED test light between the IDM wire(GY/O Grey/Orange stripe) and negative battery terminal and crank the engine. Again 3 to 7 volts or the LED light blinks. If NOT DIS wiring or module faulty. If OK, next test.

CID to Sensor. Connect LED test light between CID CS wire (DG Dark Green) and negative battery terminal and crank engine. The test light should blink. If not, CID sensor or wiring is faulty. If OK, next test.

COIL PWR. Connect LED test light between COIL PWR (VBAT) wire and negative battery terminal and put the key on. The light should be ON (LIGHT UP). If not COIL PWR wiring faulty.

DIS electrical tests concluded. Hope this helps, rangerj

 

[pipefitter]

Thanks To All Who Helped, It Was The Cps That Failed. After Getting The Wire From The Sensor Fished Behind The Upper Cam Housing And The Intake The Rest Of Job Went Good. Took The Old Sensor To Auto-zone, And It Tested Good. So I Bought A New One Any Way, Good Thing Because After Putting Every Thing Back Together It Fired Up On The First Try. All Smiles Now. Not Sure If Auto-zones Testing Procedure Is Up To Par, Have Had Problems In The Past With Them. Any Way Engine Sounds And Runs Great.
My Next Problem Is That Sometimes It Will Shift Hard From 1st. Gear Into Second. Was Wondering If This Would Be A Common Transmission Problem Or Something More Specific Just To The Sho. Thanks Again In Advance.
Pat