Won't Start Unless I short solenoid

[Marccus]

'89

When I turn the key to start, I get nothing.

When I place a wire across the two large posts of the fender solenoid (now a relay) the car starts.

I replaced the fender solenoid and the same problem occurs. I still have to short the solenoid.

What else could be the problem.

AS background:

Once when I had to push the car (about 8 years ago) and jump in to start it, I leaned heavy on the steering wheel when pushing that the steering column "moved", not llike something snapped, but something moved out of position permanently.

After that incident the steering wheel never locked again after pulling out the key.

Also after that incident, it was very difficult to turn the key enought to start the car. You couldn't just use the key head to start, because your fingers would not give enought leverage to overcome the force to move it enough to start it.

I placed the key on a large diamter ring and when twisting the ring, you have enough torque to get the key to the position that engages the ignition.

I did replace the ignition switch (the white "thing" that has a gear assembly) awhile ago and adjust it the proper way (it's been a long time so I can't describe exactly what you were supposed to do, but I know I did it!). And I replaced the lock cylinder.

Neither of these repairs fixed the problem with the difficulty of turning the key enough to start the car.

I'm wondering if the problem can be traced to this anamoly in starting the the car or should I look for electrical problems besides the solenoid.

The relay (30 amps) attached to the strut tower?

 

[hawkeye18]

you probably broke the ignition cylinder, and probably by rotating it in its sleeve. That would explain the wheel not snapping, but moving something. This is bad, because you will not be able to remove the cylinder via normal means as this requires putting a 1/8" drift punch (or a pen ink cylinder, a skinny metal one) in the bottom of the cylinder and depressing a lock stud. Although, that might be what you sheared! Give it a shot.

Bad news on replacing the cylinder is now you can't use one key for the doors and the ignition unless you take it to a locksmith (not lowes, a real locksmith) and have him make it right.

Also, if the cylinder rotated, it won't move the ignition switch correctly, and thus it won't start the car, necessitating the shorting of the solenoid.

Investigate and report!

 

[sdpatt]

It is probably the ignition switch and not the lock cylinder. The lock cylinder only rotates to move the shaft that slides the contacts in the ignition switch. If the cylinder is turning, it is doing its job. It is the electrical contacts in the ignition switch that wear and overheat. It doesn't cost much and is fairly simple to replace.

See this topic for diagnosing a starting problem.

Here's a topic where I had a similar starting problem as yours.

 

[Marccus]

Thanks very much for your diagnoses and suggestions. I will report back soon. :wave:

 

[Marccus]

The prices are all over the place for the ignition switch.

Kragen has Standard Motor Products @ $76, Niehoff @ $19, GP Sorenson @ $65.

Autozone has range of $18 to $19 but it is not the switch.

But autozone shows a 4 oer 7 wire connector repair kit for the connector on the harness. Is this the connector harness to ignition switch in the repair guide illustration on Autzone?

 

[Devin]

When I installed my cylinder incorrectly the first time it was very, very difficult to turn the key. I eventually disassembled it and put it back on and it was normal again.

Does the key release lever work properly?

 

[icemaneric]

Install an external start switch. Like those used on the S200.

 

[Marccus]

When I installed my cylinder incorrectly the first time it was very, very difficult to turn the key. I eventually disassembled it and put it back on and it was normal again.

Does the key release lever work properly?

No the key release lever does not work. I can easily take the key out at any position of the cylinder even when I am driving.

 

[Marccus]

Install an external start switch. Like those used on the S200.

Hmmm ... I am installing af floor mount battery disconnect switch, but I know nothing about an external start switch.

 

[Marccus]

I replaced the ignition switch and the car still won't start when I turn the key fully to the start position.

I pretty sure I installed the ignition cyclinder to the correct depth since I am able to go through the entire group of settings for the cylinder lock.

I ran two wires from the posts on the solenoid (or relay) on the driver's side fender through the fire wall terminating at a momentary switch.

Now I can start the car using the switch to short the solenoid (or relay) and I don't have to open the hood an use a wire or screwdriver to short the posts.

I just have to figure out where to put the switch -I can locate it in the metal cover under the steering wheel. I'll just have to drill a hole.




But what else can be wrong with the car not starting even when I installed a new ignition switch??

 

[hawkeye18]

I'd say you opened up one of the wires in the harness. Do you have a multimeter?

 

[Marccus]

Yes, I do have a digital multimeter.

One question: Can you replace the ignition wire which goes to the small round screw on the solenoid. It appears to be purposely made so that no part of the wire or the screw is exposed.

If I replace it by crimping on a ring terminal and using a nut to hold it on the screw post, there will be some bare wire exposed. Is this a big deal?

Thanks.

P.S. I haven't done any work on the harnesses or "pulled" and "tugged" them to do some mechanical work.

BTW '89 SHO.

 

[TYSHO]

All of these replies and we're only talking about the ignition switch that RARELY fails? How about trying other things that prevent the soleniod from receiving power, like the CLUTCH SWITCH. And, did you install the ignition wire on the new soleniod you replaced?