window lift motor

[bigschoen]

I have two power windows that are not working - want to replace the motors in them. I looked on Advance auto parts online - is it the WINDOW LIFT motor that I want?

any help is much appreciated...
Adam in Ohio
93 MTX (87,000)

 

[fricker66]

Are you sure the motors are bad? I had a problem with a power window not working but it turned out to be a loose wire. Never had to look into replacing the motor so I can't be of help in finding the part.

------------------
Frederick Ricker
89 SHO w/ 78,000 mi
Mostly Stock w/ Slicers

 

[bigschoen]

I was told my driver side rear needed a new motor (it is dead) the passenger side front works 20% of the time - and I was told it wasn't the motor (they did something like grease or something) and it still doesn't work. If the window lift motor is the main motor for the assembly - i found it for only like 30bucks - so I would just do it...but I want to know for sure..
thanks for your help
adam in ohio

Originally posted by fricker66:
Are you sure the motors are bad? I had a problem with a power window not working but it turned out to be a loose wire. Never had to look into replacing the motor so I can't be of help in finding the part.

 

[IVEYSSHO]

I would say the only way to be 100% sure that the motor is bad is by running current to it. If it kicks over, you know its a wire someplace. If nothing happens, or it hardly runs at all, then (and only then) would I would I go buy another. I have had power windows on cars for the last 20 years and have had like one rare occasion where it turns out the window motor was "bad". Long term I have found that after the 200,000 miles of door slaming, wires get loose, or shorts occur. And to have both window motors be the cause is even rarer yet.

I would be interested to know what you find out.

 

[SilverSHO]

Most of my other window switches didn't work when I got my car. I cleaned the contacts, and they work fine now. Just something you might check before dropping the cash on window motors.

------------------
Nick
Lt. Titanium 90 135k
Coneless, ACCEL 8.8 stainless steel wires,
SHO Shop torque limiters, Cherry Bomb Turbo II mufflers
AIM: loudog6491

 

[bigschoen]

will do - thanks for all the help guys.

adam in ohio

Originally posted by SilverSHO:
Most of my other window switches didn't work when I got my car. I cleaned the contacts, and they work fine now. Just something you might check before dropping the cash on window motors.

 

[sdpatt]

Cleaning the switches is quite easy. They are rather sturdy switches that can be easily taken apart and the contacts cleaned with emory paper and electrical spray cleaner. You don't even have to take the door panels off to get to them on my 1991.


------------------
Scott

1991, 252K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, SHO Shop front & rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
Class II hitch, Silver award at the SHOklahoma Car Show

 

[philw349]

How much do the motors run? While I was at Ford the other day the advisor rolled down my driver window, which is always slower than the others for some reason. He said it needed a new motor. Are they easy to replace inside the door or is that something better left to an expert?

 

[bigschoen]

I found the "window lift motor" for about $40 - that is why I was making sure it was teh right motor. I don't think it's my window switch giving me a problem cause the two windows in question both don't work from driver's door (with all four window switches) or from it's own window....

I will check the wiring and motor.

I don't think that the replacement of the motor is too big a job...anyone do it before??

adam in ohio

Originally posted by philw349:
How much do the motors run? While I was at Ford the other day the advisor rolled down my driver window, which is always slower than the others for some reason. He said it needed a new motor. Are they easy to replace inside the door or is that something better left to an expert?

 

[jthomas68]

Moved to :MAINTENANCE-ELECTRONICS

------------------
Jeremy Thomas
Modified 91+
Pic Of The Week:

 

[buechine]

Originally posted by philw349:
While I was at Ford the other day the advisor rolled down my driver window, which is always slower than the others for some reason. He said it needed a new motor. Are they easy to replace inside the door or is that something better left to an expert?

I had a similar problem in my old 88 Buick T-Type. The car had the biggest windows around and the slowest--I took the door panel apart and I tried running wires direct from a battery to the motor and the windows went up a lot faster. I then put a new ground wire on the car directly through to the battery and the windows were good again. I don't think that you have to go right to the battery but it fixed the problem in that car.

 

[gi_bud]

I have pulled my window motor and ordered another. I got one from Autozone and it was not exactly right, the mount holes were much smaller. So i went to advance, ordered another. It should be here soon. Not all that hard to do, just a pain to remove all the other stuff (speaker, controls, plastic moisture and sound barrier).

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

revived from the dead...

... but you're right. It's not that hard at all.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

For those of you wanting to "clean" the contacts - do not use emory cloth. Use a soft white pencil eraser. All you really need to do is to remove the build-up of oxidized copper. While using emory cloth will remove the crud, it will also cut literally thousands of small cuts into the copper contacts, reducing the overall contact area.