Will not crank

[Tom Dunphy]

92 SHO will not turn over. I replaced the starter and still no go. The battery is strong. All lights and accessories work. I suspect it is either an ignition problem or clutch interlock switch.

I would appreciate any help in narrowing down what it might be.

Thanks

Tom

 

[Machspeed]

Well dont start replacing parts until you know what it is. Check for spark, are you getting any codes? When you turn the key, will it do anything? Or just nothing?

 

[Tom Dunphy]

Forgot to mention, it will bump start. When I turn the key there is just the sound of the fuel pump. Other than that it is just the same as if you tried to start it without depressing the clutch.

 

[masho95]

The clutch interlock switch is an easy check. Do you get the normal resistance when turning the key to start the car? What exactly happens when you turn the key?

 

[projectSHO89]

Ignition switch, clutch interlock switch, or open wire.

There's nothing else in the circuit.

Steve

 

[Tom Dunphy]

There is resistance when I turn the key. The oil light and the brake light illuminate when I turn the key full forward. The ATC display goes out as long as the key is held in the full forward position as well.

Is there any way to test/bypass the clutch switch to eliminate it as the culprit?

Also, for about the past year, whenever I have the wipers on and I turn on the right signal, the wipers stop until the signal is turned off. There is definitely a short there but not sure if it has anything to do with my current no crank issue.

 

[projectSHO89]

Check Fuse F10 (IGN SW/BLWR MTR) ****-fuse in the engine compartment fusebox. If it is good, proceed.

The clutch interlock switch is mounted high on the clutch pedal. WARNING: The following will defeat a safety feature. Observe proper safety precautions! Locate and jumper the W/PK and R/LB wires to the switch.

Try cranking the engine(make certain it is out of gear). If it now cranks, the switch is out of adjustment or is defective. If it did not crank, break out the meter and check for 12V on the W/PK switch while attempting to crank. If no voltage, check the igition switch (test procedure is in the Helms).

The wiper/signal symptom is unrelated. You need a new multifunction switch for THAT issue.

Steve

 

[Tom Dunphy]

The fuses are OK. There is no voltage to the w/pk wire. I have removed the steering column shroud. I have a chiltons manual which fails to show procedure for SHO.

Would the ignition switch be a 4-5" white block underneath the steering column with a large black wiring harness connected to it? I guess it is time to get a Helms.

 

[SHOZ123]

Go to the starter first and see if you are getting juice there when you turn the key at the small wire powering the solenoid.

 

[Off Road SHO]

My son just had that exact same problem on his 93 ATX. He had just replaced the starter with a new one. Had me look at it and I asked if he had replaced everything he had taken off? He said yes. I said are you sure? He said yes. I asked how many heavy cables did he replace on the starter's heavy bolt? He said one, and it's got good voltage.

There are two cables, one FROM the battery and one from the main fuse box near the fire wall. That was the problem. They use the starter bolt as a splice for getting power to the fuse box.

Tom

 

[Tom Dunphy]

I checked the cables and there are two on the post you are referring to.

I also replaced the ignition switch....still same problem.

I checked for voltage at the small wire on the solenoid and I am getting nothing there, assuming I am making good connections with the leads on my voltmeter.

 

[projectSHO89]

Since you have verified that there is no voltage on the WT/PK wire, that leaves only the ignition switch, its supply via F10, and the interconnecting wiring.

You really need the pinout of the switch.

The switch should have five (5) Y wires. All five should be hot at all time, one via F10, the other via the other IGN SW?BLWR MTR ****-fuse.

Check for supply voltage on all five of those wires. The W/PK wire should be hot when the switch is turned to START.

Steve

 

[Tom Dunphy]

I posted a couple of days ago but just now realizing it did not post properly.

I replaced the ignition switch...still no crank.

i checked voltage on the 5 Y wires and 4 are hot at all times and one needs to have the key forward before there is voltage.

You refer to F10. The 60A fuses in my fuse panel for Ignition Switch and blower motor are in position A and B. Am i looking at the right fuses.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[projectSHO89]

Yeah, those are the right fuses. My reference to F10 is from the EVTM.

All five of those wires should have power without regard to the position of the ignition switch.

Try swapping the two ****-fuses and see what happens.

I think some posts got lost a couple of days ago.... I know at least one of mine disappeared.

Steve