why do i do this to myself V boosted SHO

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somedude_001

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I have a 1990 SHO with the following.

stage 1 clutch master cluch
8lb flywheel
quafie
cable shift
shonut motor mounts
ALSFB
TPR bushings everywhere
koni/eibach
H brace
BMR rear lateral arms
sub frame connectors
11.6 and 13" cobra brakes for the front.
stock rear brakes with no portioning valve present
dynomax exhaust
stock Y-pipe

what I have left over from my turbo ATX build

SHOshop injectors
lincoln 80mm MAF
lots of piping and scrap steel.

What I bought uggg

I bought off road SHO's M80 blower setup from his buggy a while back with the plans to run low boost and increase the fun of my track car/ daily driver. With this setup the car is a animal on the street and it does extremely well at the track too. I throw some R comp tires on this setup = tons O fun until I get home then I replace both front wheel bearings because they are wiped a couple weeks later. a gen 3 subframe is in the works too

The problem with my buying the kit is I always have things laying around. Why put on the M80 when I have a perfectly good M90 sitting around, an why put a M90 on when I can get a M112 for a couple hundred bucks. I only want 8-10psi because this is going to be a track car and I don't want to turn the transmission to scrap. I don't know the MTX like I know the ATX as far as durability should I stick with 8psi do I don't have to worry about input shafts and 3rd gear? Also what clutch is good for handling that kind of power.

I have another option floating around in my head. I bought the pistons for the camaro project and they are just collecting dust because I still don't have a adapter plate so I was pondering throwing those in a 3.2 block I have sitting around and doing the blower with those so I would have a fresh 3.24L with 8.5 compression. 8-10psi of boost and I could do that sneaky nitrous setup I have been wanting to do forever. Just not sure how big of a shot I can use and not break the transmission. I know the engine would be bulletproof so I wonder if I could do that boost + a 150shot for the occasional street encounter when I really feel the need to waste a Zo6

*what clutch? will the stage 1 handle low boost?
*where do I draw the line to keep for trans reliability? (remember this is a track car first and foremost)
*dual core rad enough?
* keep stock pistons for higher compression or use 8.5 pistons with larger displacement. we are comparing a refreshed 3.2 to a overbore 3.24. I am kind of thinking run stock pistons to keep the weight down.
 

Off Road SHO

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I still have that GM T-5 to AeroStar bell housing adaptor..... Just mentioning it.


Go with the M-112, that way you won't have to over drive it so much to get the same airflow.


Tom
 

ycode90

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If it's gonna be a track car be a little conservative the MTX is gonna grenade eventullay.Especially with the stresses or racing.
 

luigisho

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Have you done any modifications to the MTX? You will want to address the spider gears and think about shaft flex. I haven't had the pleasure of beefing one of these up but I would have an extra on hand and pursue some preventive measures to make it last longer.

PD blowers are great, but I would be worried about torque coming on so early with either transmission. I know you've gone down the whole built up ATX road and the MTX has similar weaknesses. Neither tranny was really reliable when pushed hard at stock and better power levels. GM cars of that era had similar design limitations.
 

Toolman

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If it is a track car first and foremost, MAKE IT AS LIGHT AS POSSIBLE! This should help the trans last a lot longer, regardless of your power ouput. I am hoping that by removing 700lbs from my SHO the stock gears will be able to hanlde 500+ft lbs for some time. We shall see.

As far as the clutch, I can not see a stage I holding the amount of TQ that the 112 can produce. Better get a Stage III (contact me, I have an extra).
 

Michelle

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If it is a track car first and foremost, MAKE IT AS LIGHT AS POSSIBLE! This should help the trans last a lot longer, regardless of your power ouput. I am hoping that by removing 700lbs from my SHO the stock gears will be able to hanlde 500+ft lbs for some time. We shall see.

As far as the clutch, I can not see a stage I holding the amount of TQ that the 112 can produce. Better get a Stage III (contact me, I have an extra).

Light as possible while still maintaining structure to the vehicle. A good cage (welded in) will help with that.
 
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somedude_001

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i'm not pulling any weight from this car unfortuntely. It is my comfy highway cruiser/ track car/ scare my friends in the corners car. The gen 3 subframe might save a couple lbs but the blower will more than make up for that offset.

I just got back from the parts store. I ordered all new gaskets from whichever engine I end up refreshing. I will probably throw a stock set of replacement rings at it and run a hone through the cylinders and call it a day. I will hang onto my 8.5:1 pistons for a while. I could throw my oversize valves on this engine so it breaths a bit better although it will be on stock cams so i'm not sure if it is worth the cost.

I think I will see what I can do to get a M112 on there. I may have to push the radiator forward to make that monster fit in there. Probably would not hurt to get a oil cooler on there.

edit: what a drag these transmission are. a M112 on 8psi is just a huge tease but at least the trans will not explode on 8psi (i think)
 
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somedude_001

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I still have that GM T-5 to AeroStar bell housing adaptor..... Just mentioning it.
Tom

I really want to use the TH400 I have because I know it will not break. I do have the option to drop a 6.2L LS serise engine in there and I can still use the same PT67 I have from the SHO camaro and it would spool nasty fast and make some really impressive numbers. Just a thought.
 

somedude_001

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I started the engine build and I have everything cleaned up and nearly all of the gaskets and bearings ready. I will be dropping the engine off at the machine shop to machine the heads and bore the block but the only part I can't find is wrist pin bushings. seems like a good thing to replace but I can't find them anywhere. any tips here?

I got a quote from a local machine shop and it is 350 to machine and clean and install new valves and springs. 209 to bore block 59 to clean everything and 55 to polish the crank which I don't think i'm going to do. The crank out of my turbo car is damn near a mirror finish.
 

Sho Amo

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you can just move the fan in front of the radiator since you dont use a/c anyways. Just get one from summit or advanced.

gives you a ton of room.
100 1654
 

yamahaSHO

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I believe the Subaru Brat bushings are of the right OD, however, a machine shop can measure and order accordingly.
 

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