whining speaker

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yamahaSHO

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DJ SHO:
yamahaSHO:
your Ford/JBL amps are crap. You should have used the HU's internal amp as it is most likely more powerful and cleaner.
I doubt that. The JBL amps are cleaner sounding (and sound decent too as the speakers are matched to the amplifier well), and have a "real" 20 watts per channel, unlike head units. It's physically inpossible to fit a great amplifier that can actually push some current to the speakers, in something the size of a head unit. There's not enough room. MOSFET sucks. unregulated power supplies make better sounding amplifiers IMHO. You might be able to get it "louder" from a nice Alpine unit, or whatever the case may be, but it sure isn't going to be clean at that volume. The auto-loudness and compression circuitry in the factory head unit is what kills the volume in such a nicely designed system (amps and main speakers - sub location and limited input signal to it could have been better IMO). I'll probably get flack for saying all this, but it's my opinion.

Back on topic, I say try the ground loop isolator. It will most likely cure the whining problem.
Let me tell you what I do for a living.... wink

I have even run tests... My Pioneer 50w x 4(22rms x 4) is much better than the factory amps. The factory amps are not that powerful to begin with, the signal to noise ratio is not the best either. The inputs are also matched to the output of the factory head unit. There is NO need to run an amp through another amp... The factory head unit is a "pre-amp"... I sends out low level singals.

Your sound will be louder and cleaner if you jut by-pass them amps... I have tried numerous ways to utilize the factory amps, even used potentiometer to bring the output levels from the HU down to factory specs... Still did not sound that great. I also got a hiss from the right rear speaker(even when stock)...

Actually, Metal Oxide Semi Field Effect Transistors are very good at what they do. Great power for the size and cool operation. If you want a really good amp, go with a Class A amp as it is very inefficient... I could go on, but how good does the signal to noise ratio have to be in an automobile when you got power wink ?

Also, have you opened up or even picked up the factory amps? There is not much in them...

But maybe you're right, seeing how everything Ford put into the car is "Top Notch" quality... :rolleyes:

<small>[ February 10, 2004, 07:58 AM: Message edited by: yamahaSHO ]</small>
 

SHO power

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That's

Metal Oxide Semi-conductor Field Effect Transistor
to be completely PC. wink And yes, they are very good at what they do. Cool operating temps, an great power (wattage) (P = I x E) for what they do.

I have the same BUZZ running through my stereo now. I believe the signal has coupled into one of the pre-amp wires that connect to the aftermarket amps I have in the trunk. I think a simple fix will be to relocate these wires. I dont use the H/U to power any of my speakers. I run a cheap JBL 4 - Channel amp to send 100 Watts (70.7 RMS) to each speaker, and 300 Watts to each 12" Sub. Much Louder, crisper, and Solid than the stock amps IMHO. 400 watter cost me 90 bucks, Kenwood 600 watt 2 channel amp was 300.00 bucks.. subs and box were 200, H/U was 200 awhile ago, amp install kit was 30.

So for about $600.00 I have a system that sounds just a tight and loud as my friends who spent $3600.00 at tweeter!

Just do your homework, read some, and have fun!

And good luck with the "turbo" thats screams with RPM.. well, thats what I tell my friends... :D
 
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