MeShoHorny
@dm1n15tr@t0r
.......after replacing rod bearings? I was thinking,should I go to a lower weight when I start up the engine and break it in or should I use a higher weight oil?
TIA,
TIA,
What weight oil to use......
- Thread starter MeShoHorny
- Start date
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SHO5
ADDICTED
Since you are in New York i would say 0w-30. This is great for the winter i use it in my SHO and works great. I live here in wisconsin and the weather gets pretty nasty around here thats what i use.
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
The SHO owners manual says to use 5W-30 for temperatures under 100F and 10W-30 if your car operates in temps above 0F and will ever see temps higher than 100. For most of the continental U.S., that means that 10W-30 should be used by all during the summer months, and the folks in the great white north should probably change to the 5W-30 in the winter months. I have used the 10W-30 all year 'round since I don't have a snow blower and it never gets below 0F here. Thank goodness.
MeShoHorny
@dm1n15tr@t0r
I didn't phrase the question correctly. I am putting a rebuilt 3.2L motor (new: rod bearings, oil pump, gasket set, 3.0L heads, etc.)in my SHO. When I used to build Mopar motors before I would start them for the 1st time I would prime the oil pump with an electric drill so the engine was preloaded with oil before I started it.
Unfortunately, I cannot do this with the SHO engine. So, I was just wondering what weight oil I should go with that will get in and film the rod bearings as quickly as possible upon startup of the fresh engine.
Unfortunately, I cannot do this with the SHO engine. So, I was just wondering what weight oil I should go with that will get in and film the rod bearings as quickly as possible upon startup of the fresh engine.
shojuan
New Member
Why not just use a good quality, ie Redline, engine assembly **** on the bearing surfaces when you do the rebuild? I guess it might be too late for that if the rebuild is done.
If you're really worried about it and you are inventive, you can gut an oil filter to make an adapter with some epoxy and hose. Then supply oil from a container you can pressurize with shop air, crank the engine with the DIS disconnected to let things get coated with oil, then put a normal oil filter back on and adjust your crankcase oil levels and fire her up. Probably a **** of a lot more trouble then it's worth. If it were me, I'd just disconnect the DIS and use the starter to build oil pressure, then reconnect and fire her up.
Rick
If you're really worried about it and you are inventive, you can gut an oil filter to make an adapter with some epoxy and hose. Then supply oil from a container you can pressurize with shop air, crank the engine with the DIS disconnected to let things get coated with oil, then put a normal oil filter back on and adjust your crankcase oil levels and fire her up. Probably a **** of a lot more trouble then it's worth. If it were me, I'd just disconnect the DIS and use the starter to build oil pressure, then reconnect and fire her up.
Rick
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
Did you fill the filter before you screwed it back on? This saves several seconds of pump up time. Just unplug the DIS and crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. Plug the DIS back in and start the engine with a good supply of oil that is quickly pressurized.
RStalveyARFF
too many shos
Jason, with my 3.2 I filled with tranny fluid and a junk oil filter which I cleaned out, and cranked with the DIS out for a few seconds to put a film in there. I then drained all the fluid, and refilled with 5w30, and drove that at varying degrees for 300 miles. Then I changed with more 5w30 and I'll change this time at 1500-2000 miles.
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