What size shot of N2O will my motor hold?

[92ShoOff]

Hey everyone. First of all, sorry for such an ignorant question. I know very little about nitrous, and NEVER wanted to go that route. I have always teased that nitrous is for wimps, but now after spending the past 9 months or so and a few thousand dollars building my 3.2 for my MTX I've decided I shouldn't blow another few thousand on a blower. I already have another fast N/A car that I plan on getting into the 11's with so I feel nitrous in my Taurus is settling.

So here's what I have: A 47k mile 3.2 block, bored to 93mm. I have forged aluminum Diamond Racing pistons with Total Seal gapless rings. I had the machinist file-fit the rings to handle up to a 150-shot of nitrous (there was a little chart that came with the piston rings that told you what to gap the rings to for certain applications). Crankshaft is polished, components were internally balanced, and all new bearings of course. The heads weren't ported but the valves and seats were cleaned up, and all valves will be dead on their spec. I will be having Motorcraft plugs in while I break her in, but not sure if I should change those for any reason if I use nitrous.

So all of that said, how big of a shot can I safely use on this motor once it's broken in completely? Is there anything else you need to know to determine this? Is there anything else I'm going to need, or need to modify to use Nitrous? I have the Tweecer RT, so I'll be able to change anything in the EEC that I may need to. Thanks in advance!

-Andrew

 

[92ShoOff]

Also are there any nitrous kits that you all could recommend, and/or any pictures you can share? I remember there being posts some time ago about wet and dry systems and which one not to use... but I guess those posts were lost back the forum went down earlier this year. Well thanks again!

 

[RJ-92]

DO a search here on the forum. There are many posts about what compliments you need for a N2O set-up, uel, plugs, etc. As far as your motor specificly, seeing as you have Forged pistons I think you wouldn't have an issue with as much as a 125 shot or so. I think a 150 might be pushing it on these motors even with your pistons. But with supporting mods and enough fuel it may be feasable.

 

[ycode90]

I've been spraying 75 shot for over a year. Get a high volume fuel pump and iridium or cold coper plugs and go for 100. I'going to go up whith the new 3.2. Oh yea get the Zex kit it's safe and really easy to work with.

 

[2L8V8_4sho]

I was using a 400,000 shot before I broke an axle.

 

[SHO Dude]

With that motor, you can run pretty much as much as you'd like.

I'm an old nitrous ******. I had a $400 a month nitrous habit for some time. I had to build a supercharger kit because I couldn't afford the nitrous.

You can also stack the kits. Leave on 75hp, then bring in 250.

I still have the direct port intake manifold that I ran back in the day, if you're interested.

 

[AREA 91]

Did that intake get any cheaper Doug?

 

[SinisterSHO]

Did that intake get any cheaper Doug?

Yeah, doing it yourself.

 

[shorage]

I remember

I remember that intake....how much were you selling it for?

Just curious....

Why didnt you stick with it?

 

[SASHO91]

a guy here in texas ran a 175( i believe) on a stock-ish (stock pistons) but... it...uh... blew...

so... as Doug said, pretty much what you want... HOWEVER, you better have the drivetrain to back it up.. or buy a progressive controler(or the like)

EDIT: It was a 125. and the piston had a quarter size hole in it...

 

[AREA 91]

I hope you have a quaife.

 

[SHOBlu]

Hey ShoOff, you can reliably run 125 hp with that set up and probably more. You definately want to go with a direct port system, not one that sprays before the TB. I have the NOS 05040-FINOS kit. Its a direct port wet kit that I bought at Summit Racing - here's the link: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D05040%2DFINOS&N=700+400047+4294871048+115&autoview=sku. You'll have to dial back the timing with your RT and get plugs 1 or 2 degrees colder but thats pretty much it to get it up and going (don't forget the LED purge system too ). Its a good idea to have an AFR, Knock sensor, and an EGT with a logger to fine tune it with the TwEECer and get the timing and Air/Fuel ratio's spot on. I sure wouldn't want to burn a valve or piston on a fresh rebuild. PM me if you want. Peace - 0ut.