What happened Here?

[SHOspazz92]

Well, I THOUGHT maybe the subframe had shifted and through my alignment off at the last Auto-X but that appears to not be the case. What do you guys think happened?

Here's the wheel, Cocked way to the right. The wheels are straight.



Here's the Driver side wheel, Looking down.



And here's the passenger side:



Any thoughts?

-Sam

 

[Shoaz]

Something moved, clearly. Triple check the subframe location, check for a bent tie-rod (hit any curbs?) and double check that the camber plates on top of the struts haven't moved.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Something moved, clearly. Triple check the subframe location, check for a bent tie-rod (hit any curbs?) and double check that the camber plates on top of the struts haven't moved.

Will do!

This Certainly happened during one of my runs at the Auto-X. Gotta to pay to play I guess.

-Sam

 

[hawkeye18]

Is this a pop quiz, or are you trying to figure it out? Offhand I'd say you need a toe adjustment bad. Adjust the driver's side tie rod out (loosen it) about 7-8 full turns. I'm assuming the pictures of the wheels are when the steering wheel looks like the first picture?

Generally tie rods don't completely fail without being really noticeable. Like, "why is my car in the ditch?" noticeable, so... idunno.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Well, It's hard to tell without the car on a Lift, But it looks like The Tie-Rods, Lower Control Arms...etc...are OK. If the subframe has shift, Again - I can't tell until the car is on a Lift. However, I don't think that's the Issue, Check out my Cast and Camber plates:

Use the Camber Adjustment part of the CC plate to reference how it is positioned opposed to the actual Strut Tower.

Driver Side:



Passenger Side:



The way the Passenger Side CC plate looks, It appears that the whole right side suspension assembly has moved a little bit, Causing that terrible Toe Out on the passenger side wheel. Eric, Has this happened to you before?

-Sam

 

[Bill Strobel]

I would say its in the tie rod. Looks like the passenger side inner or outer tie rod has pulled out of the sleeve somehow.

 

[Shoaz]

No, that's not happened to me before.

Get that dude on a lift and give it a close look at everything. Something has moved or bent.

 

[rubydist]

If its not tie rods, the next likely candidate is ball joints, imho.

 

[SHObill]

The Steering Wheel agrees with the pass wheel so the driver tie rod has to be bent.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Thanks guys.

We'll see what I can do Tomorrow.

I honestly Have no Idea how this happened. I guess it was just a Rough Course.

*Edit*

"That's what she said".



-Sam

 

[Eastcoast SHO]

it looks like mine when i lost the inner tie rod

 

[Shoaz]

The Steering Wheel agrees with the pass wheel so the driver tie rod has to be bent.

Yeah, bent LH tie rod would do that.

 

[K-Dawg]

x3. That was going to be my guess.

 

[SHODWN]

Sam its looking like its time for a gen 3 sunframe swap, LMK when you want one. Ive been making routine trips into NC for the last few months.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Sam its looking like its time for a gen 3 sunframe swap, LMK when you want one. Ive been making routine trips into NC for the last few months.

Please check your PM's Kirk. :sun:

-Sam

 

[38SHO]

If its not tie rods, the next likely candidate is ball joints, imho.

a ball joint won't do that

you can't go by how the strut mounts look unless you knew exactly how they were before and the exact alignment numbers when they were in the position

next thing, if that was indeed the problem, and the whole strut assembly moving over like that, I wouldn't suspect a bad tie rod...... it wouldn't really do that either.........it could toe out or in the wheel, but not move the entire damn strut assebly in relation to the body

I'd get it aligned and set everything back to center and see where you are at

also when you align it, if done properly, by what you have to adjust to get it back to normal you will find what happened that caused it to get out of alignment so badly....... I.E. if its truly just the tie rod out of adjustment(your camber and caster numbers will be correct already, or close to what they were before without moving the strut assemblies at all---if just that one side shifted dramatically with different camber and caster numbers, your problem was just with that one sides strut),

you have a tie rod/rack/bent knuckle ear(the part the outer tie rod stud goes into) problem if the strut didn't move.......

if it was a subframe issue, both tires would have toe problems, it looks like the one side is straight.........