hey everyone, im still pretty new to the whole car audio world. I currently have a Alpine CDA-9807 Head Unit in my car and I am getting 2 12" Alpine Type R subs, I am unsure of what to get for an amp though...amps are a very grey area to me...2 channel/4 channel? I want them to preform to their best ability and really untilize what these subs have to offer, but im not sure on what to get for an amp. Any recommendations? or maybe some guidence as far as what wattage of an amp, i guess thats really my biggest question. Any feedback is appreciated....thanks guys!
What amp should I get?
- Thread starter 93blkbuty
- Start date
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93medusa
New Member
Sticking with your alpine theme, I'd say this amp would serve you quite well:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18797&item=3090063498&rd=1
Plenty of power for those type-R subs, make sure you get the dual 2 ohm coils so you can parralell/series wire them to a 2 ohm load to draw maximum power from the amp.
Another option would be to get a 2 channel such a this one,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18796&item=3090297691&rd=1
With this amp, you would want to get the 4 ohm versions of hte subs so you could run each sub in parallel and draw a 2 ohm load on each channel to get maximum wattage.
In my opinion, the mono amp would work better, but if price is an issue, the 2 channel will work just as well
Another option is that if you think you may eventually expand, is to get a 4 channel amp and bridge it to two channels, with the plans of using it to power your interior speakers in teh future, and upgrading your sub amp. For this route, I would go with this amp:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4950&item=3089555302&rd=1
with this amp you would want the dual 2 ohm coils so you could wire them in series to achieve a 4 ohm load on the bridged pairs of outputs on the amp.
So there are your options if you want to stick with alpine. There are lots of other options out there if you are open to trying other things, but I have always felt a system is slicker if you stick with one manufacturer.
Hope this was helpful, and if you need clarification on wiring, and power output, i'd be more than happy to elaborate.
Dave
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18797&item=3090063498&rd=1
Plenty of power for those type-R subs, make sure you get the dual 2 ohm coils so you can parralell/series wire them to a 2 ohm load to draw maximum power from the amp.
Another option would be to get a 2 channel such a this one,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18796&item=3090297691&rd=1
With this amp, you would want to get the 4 ohm versions of hte subs so you could run each sub in parallel and draw a 2 ohm load on each channel to get maximum wattage.
In my opinion, the mono amp would work better, but if price is an issue, the 2 channel will work just as well
Another option is that if you think you may eventually expand, is to get a 4 channel amp and bridge it to two channels, with the plans of using it to power your interior speakers in teh future, and upgrading your sub amp. For this route, I would go with this amp:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4950&item=3089555302&rd=1
with this amp you would want the dual 2 ohm coils so you could wire them in series to achieve a 4 ohm load on the bridged pairs of outputs on the amp.
So there are your options if you want to stick with alpine. There are lots of other options out there if you are open to trying other things, but I have always felt a system is slicker if you stick with one manufacturer.
Hope this was helpful, and if you need clarification on wiring, and power output, i'd be more than happy to elaborate.
Dave
slickn56
Member
I used to own a 12 inch type R subwoofer. I only owned it for a few weeks. I did not like the sound quality in a sealed box as compared to my 12 inch Aura Forces that im currently running. If you like deeper bass, be sure to make a ported box or a very large sealed box. The box I used was 1.2 cu ft and didnt have enough low end for my tastes. The sub hit hard though and the construction is definally top notch. I was powering it with an orion xtr400 amp which was pushing over 500 watts RMS to it. The sub could definally handle all of the power, but it was over ****. You should try to find an amp that could push out 300x2 RMS, not peak. the amp is gonna set you back some money. It may be cheaper to get two amps that each push out 300 watts RMS x 1 channel at 4ohms. This only applys if you are running 4 ohms subs. If both the subs are two ohms you could get a mono subwoofer amp that pushed 600 watts at 1 ohm and wire the subwoofer in series.
K-Dawg
SHO Member
I'm not too familiar with the Type Rs, but it will almost never be cheaper to buy two amps as opposed to one. Depends on the specs of the subs you're buying, but something from JBL will probably be good for you.
wow quick responses so far....thanks guys, Ive been continuing to look around for the best option and price and I've stumbled accross a couple that seem like good options/deals, what do you think?
Alpine MRD-M300 V12 MONO AMP
or
JBL BP1200.1 MONO AMP
out of curiosoity has anyone ever heard of www.discountsjungle.com ? or know if its really as good as it seems or if its just too good to be true?
also as far as a box for these subs go what do you guys recommend? I was planning on building it myself, what do you think, any idea where i could get some good instructions on how to build a good one for these subs?
thanks again guys
Alpine MRD-M300 V12 MONO AMP
or
JBL BP1200.1 MONO AMP
out of curiosoity has anyone ever heard of www.discountsjungle.com ? or know if its really as good as it seems or if its just too good to be true?
also as far as a box for these subs go what do you guys recommend? I was planning on building it myself, what do you think, any idea where i could get some good instructions on how to build a good one for these subs?
thanks again guys
93medusa
New Member
The JBL 1200.1 would make those subs it's b*tches, and that is a good thing, you could get either the 4 ohm per coil version, or the 2 ohm per coil version of the subs, and they would work well with that amp.
You can pick it up at www.carmedia1.com for $309+shipping, not bad for 1200 watts of JBL goodness. It'll drive down to 1 ohm, but doesn't make any more power at 1 ohm than at 2 ohms. So the 2 ohm coils wired in series/paralell would get the maximum power without adding additional strain on the amp.
You can pick it up at www.carmedia1.com for $309+shipping, not bad for 1200 watts of JBL goodness. It'll drive down to 1 ohm, but doesn't make any more power at 1 ohm than at 2 ohms. So the 2 ohm coils wired in series/paralell would get the maximum power without adding additional strain on the amp.
K-Dawg
SHO Member
Or get it authorized w/ a one year warranty from SoundDomain.com for $299.95.
I think Etronics might have it a little cheaper, but I don't think they are an authorized retailer.
I think Etronics might have it a little cheaper, but I don't think they are an authorized retailer.
well due to the budget ive got to work with at this point im not sure if ill be able to get the JBL BP1200.1
i think maybe ive got it narrowed down to these...
Alpine MRP-M350
350 WATT x 1 @ 2 Ohms this one would run be about $145 including shipping
or
Rockford Fosgate 351M
this one also says 350 WATT X 1 @ 2 Ohms this one would be about $130 including shipping
Im not 100% sure but would these be decent choices? Im still kinda shady on the whole ohms, watt stuff...
any suggestions or comments on these 2?
i think maybe ive got it narrowed down to these...
Alpine MRP-M350
350 WATT x 1 @ 2 Ohms this one would run be about $145 including shipping
or
Rockford Fosgate 351M
this one also says 350 WATT X 1 @ 2 Ohms this one would be about $130 including shipping
Im not 100% sure but would these be decent choices? Im still kinda shady on the whole ohms, watt stuff...
any suggestions or comments on these 2?
40BelowSummer
SHO Member
Make sure those are RMS values, what sub are you going to be pushing?
93medusa
New Member
well, if you are getting 2 alpine type r subs, you will want to get the dual 2 ohm versions. Then you wire each sub so its voicecoils are in series resulting in a 4 ohm load per sub (attach the positive speaker lead to the positive of the first coil, then the negative of the first coil to the positive of the second coil then the negative of the second coil to the negative lead from the amp) then wire the two subs (as 4 ohm loads) so that they are paralelled resulting in a 2 ohm load. 350 watts into two subs should be sufficient no matter how you look at it. Another option is to simply get one sub. If you got the dual 4 ohm coil sub, you could just parallel the two coils and be done with it. You might be more satisfied with just the one sub.
i had never really thought of the idea of just getting one, usually when i hear people talking about what they have for subs its usually like a pair of 12's or maybe 2 or 3 10's. So you think maybe just one sub would almost be just as good? Im lookin for somethin to kinda turn peoples heads when i drive by haha.
so back to the idea of maybe just one, would you still say the alpine type r 1241D would be good or should I look at a 15" maybe? and if i were to take the single sub rout what would i want to look at for an amp?
i know i probably sound like a complete idiot, i really appreciate your help
thanks
so back to the idea of maybe just one, would you still say the alpine type r 1241D would be good or should I look at a 15" maybe? and if i were to take the single sub rout what would i want to look at for an amp?
i know i probably sound like a complete idiot, i really appreciate your help
thanks
93medusa
New Member
Well, if you are pushing the same wattage into two subs or one, you are going to get the same amount of sound. In many cases, one sub may sound better than two since there is the no possiblity of cancellation that you might get with multiple subs. The Alpine SWR-1241D Type-R sub will work fine with that alpine amp you were looking at. Since it is the dual 4 ohm coil version, you can parallel the coils (hook up both positives to the positive terminal of the amp and both negatives to the negative terminal on the amp) and get a 2 ohm load. You will actually be over-powering the sub a little bit, which is not nec a bad thing. The extra power will give you headroom , and make that sub punch like no body's business. One sub also takes up less room in the trunk, and less money :****:
I'd recomend getting the Alpine MRP-M350 it has a subsonic filter at 15 hz that you'll want to make sure you turn on and 24db per octave crossover slopes will help keep you from hearing muddy midrange in your sub. And the power output will be right at what you want for that Type-R sub.
If you do go this route, make sure that you set your gain properly, because if you just crank it all the way up on the amp, there is a good chance you could hurt your sub.
Hope this helps!
I'd recomend getting the Alpine MRP-M350 it has a subsonic filter at 15 hz that you'll want to make sure you turn on and 24db per octave crossover slopes will help keep you from hearing muddy midrange in your sub. And the power output will be right at what you want for that Type-R sub.
If you do go this route, make sure that you set your gain properly, because if you just crank it all the way up on the amp, there is a good chance you could hurt your sub.
Hope this helps!
thank you very much you have been of great help to me, what i think ive decided to do is just get one alpine 12" Type R 1241D sub to go with the alpine MRP-M350 amp...
now that ive got that settled, ive been looking into getting the box for the sub. whats the best option, building it myself or buying one already built. Ive been lookin online about potentially buying one, particularly on ebay. Obviously I'm going to need a 12" box but how can you tell if the sub boxes on ebay would be good for the sub?
what do you think of this box
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50568&item=3090946560&rd=1
its a little different looks wise from the traditional boxes ive seen which i like, but the most important thing to me is the quality.
am i overstressing the importance of the sub box, i mean does it really not matter that much?
thanks in advance
(sorry for all the questions, i just really wanna get this done well the first time)
now that ive got that settled, ive been looking into getting the box for the sub. whats the best option, building it myself or buying one already built. Ive been lookin online about potentially buying one, particularly on ebay. Obviously I'm going to need a 12" box but how can you tell if the sub boxes on ebay would be good for the sub?
what do you think of this box
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50568&item=3090946560&rd=1
its a little different looks wise from the traditional boxes ive seen which i like, but the most important thing to me is the quality.
am i overstressing the importance of the sub box, i mean does it really not matter that much?
thanks in advance
(sorry for all the questions, i just really wanna get this done well the first time)
K-Dawg
SHO Member
sub box
If you have access to simple power tools and have the ability, I would build the box yourself. Contact Alpine in regards to what they recommend for boxes and dimensions for your particular sub.
Not to much of a fan of flashy bandpass boxes myself.
If you have access to simple power tools and have the ability, I would build the box yourself. Contact Alpine in regards to what they recommend for boxes and dimensions for your particular sub.
Not to much of a fan of flashy bandpass boxes myself.
93medusa
New Member
bandpass is yuky, especially if it isn't designed specifically for your car and sub combination, so that ebay box would be the last thing I would consider.
I recomend a sealed box for sound quality, or a ported for a little more impact. only use a bandpass if it is properly designed taking your car and the sub you are using into consideration. Download the alpine manual for the sub, I am sure that it will tell you what size enclosures will work well for either sealed or ported with that sub.
With that said, you can find a box on ebay, but there are some key features to look for. you want a minimum of 3/4 inch MDF used for construction. particle board, or any material at less than 3/4 is not aacceptable.
With that said, i should touch on the fact that the subwoofer enclosure is just as important as the sub you use. Put an amazing sub in a crappy box and you get crappy bass.
If you build it yourself, which i recomend, it is very cost effiecient, make sure you use 3/4 inch MDF. I use coarse 1-5/8 inch drywall screws and lots of wood glue to hold it together. i also make the front baffle that the sub mounts to double thick for strength. if the box is over 2 cubic feet an internal brace is also recomended. Also make sure to seal the whole inside so no air can leak out, even if it is ported.
keep asking questions, this is how you avoid ending up with a ghetto system (like so many of us started with)
Dave
I recomend a sealed box for sound quality, or a ported for a little more impact. only use a bandpass if it is properly designed taking your car and the sub you are using into consideration. Download the alpine manual for the sub, I am sure that it will tell you what size enclosures will work well for either sealed or ported with that sub.
With that said, you can find a box on ebay, but there are some key features to look for. you want a minimum of 3/4 inch MDF used for construction. particle board, or any material at less than 3/4 is not aacceptable.
With that said, i should touch on the fact that the subwoofer enclosure is just as important as the sub you use. Put an amazing sub in a crappy box and you get crappy bass.
If you build it yourself, which i recomend, it is very cost effiecient, make sure you use 3/4 inch MDF. I use coarse 1-5/8 inch drywall screws and lots of wood glue to hold it together. i also make the front baffle that the sub mounts to double thick for strength. if the box is over 2 cubic feet an internal brace is also recomended. Also make sure to seal the whole inside so no air can leak out, even if it is ported.
keep asking questions, this is how you avoid ending up with a ghetto system (like so many of us started with)
Dave
good thing for me my dad is extremely good with building stuff similar to this and hes a perfectionist about it as well so i have a feeling when this is all said and done i might have a great box.
is there anyway i could get my hands on some great like step by step instructions for building this?
is there anyway i could get my hands on some great like step by step instructions for building this?
93medusa
New Member
I'll look up the specs on the sub and maybe throw some drawings together tomorow at work.
Dave
Dave
Camarok
Awesome SHO Member!!
a really big overpowering one that takes up the whole trunk from fender to fender :****:
93medusa
New Member
crutchfield says you want a .85 cubic food box for a sealed enclosure, or a 1.25 cubic ft box with a 4 inch round by 13 inchlong port.
SolidState
No Mo SHO
I am currently running two 10" type r's in a custom sealed box with an alpine cda-9813 head unit.
All new type r's are 2 or 4 ohm dual voice coil, so you don't want to go with the 2 ohm version unless you are looking for pure power, and not sound quality.
I am running a sh!tty fosgate power 250m amp with my set up right now and recently destroyed a sub due to clipping and distortion. I am about to replace the amp with a JL 500/1.
All new type r's are 2 or 4 ohm dual voice coil, so you don't want to go with the 2 ohm version unless you are looking for pure power, and not sound quality.
I am running a sh!tty fosgate power 250m amp with my set up right now and recently destroyed a sub due to clipping and distortion. I am about to replace the amp with a JL 500/1.
