Vortech V2SQ capabilities for moderate to high boost.

[adidas_kn]

Okay so I'm back at the SHO build up after a long wait for some parts and I have a question. I am looking at Dougs' FPS kit because of the ease of install and removal, the look, and the design. My engine is a 3.2L 8.5:1 complete rebuild with stock heads as of right now and all the other goodies. I am looking to be in the 400-500whp range depending on boost levels and available gas. Now, Dougs' kit comes with the tried and true Vortech V2SQ head unit. What can it handle and at what boost level should I look to need intercooling with my L/C engine? I want at least 15#'s and max of 20#'s to keep the transmission parts in the transmission(cryo'ed gears, shafts and all new components with a Quaife and new half shafts will be installed when the driveline goes back in along with a very capable Southbend DXD 6 puck clutch).

When does the boost come on and will it handle my desired boost levels? I was thinking of using the newer Boost cooler system that inject a water/Methanol(wiper fluid) mix into the boost pipe to keep detonation at bay under the higher boost levels. Will the T trim be better suited for what I am looking to run?

Hook it up guys. I will wait till I get back to the states to fab up my turbo kit to my specs. I don't trust the local to help with piping fab.

 

[SASHO91]

Im no expert but i think the T-Trim will be the better choice for those boost numbers...
also an inter/after cooler would be a good idea with that (20lbs) of boost. However, since its going to be cramped over there, you may have to get a custom intercooler made up. But by that point water/methanol injection is looking good.

EDIT: wait... what are you going to be doing a S/C'er kit or a Turbo kit?? you mention both????

 

[adidas_kn]

Right now I will be doing the S/C Kit for ease of install. I will be removing and selling the S/C in about 2-3 years to fab up my hidden Turbo kit. I want to be back in the states when I do the turbo so I have better access to parts and fabricators for the custom piping.

 

[SASHO91]

gotcha...

 

[SinisterSHO]

Why dont you ask Doug?

 

[TYSHO]

20psi on an S-trim?

 

[adidas_kn]

I have so idea what an S trim will run. I know they crank out some power from stock mustangs. So I guess a T trim will be in order?

 

[adidas_kn]

I wonder if a T trim will work with the FPS design?

 

[TYSHO]

I wonder if a T trim will work with the FPS design?

Yes, it will.

 

[TYSHO]

So I guess a T trim will be in order?

Unless you want to over spin an s-trim.

 

[Yamaha V6]

S-Trim is good for 15-16psi tops, my personal experience anyway. I was thinking of going to a T-trim, but the S-Trim was enough to destroy my cryo'd / new parts / Quaife'd trans. I highly recommend you contact Josh about his super-duper-can't bust-it-up trans internals set.

I was running 419whp on 92/93 (before Ethanol changeover).

Good luck with yours.

 

[sho_sc]

S-Trim is good for 15-16psi tops, my personal experience anyway. I was thinking of going to a T-trim, but the S-Trim was enough to destroy my cryo'd / new parts / Quaife'd trans. I highly recommend you contact Josh about his super-duper-can't bust-it-up trans internals set.

I was running 419whp on 92/93 (before Ethanol changeover).

Good luck with yours.

Agree. IMHO anything over 13-14 psi is counter productive, due to the efficiency of the impeller at those speeds. And I think its an established fact that more than 300 wTQ (more than 10 psi of boost) will eventually break the tranny no matter what is done to it short of Josh's gear set.

 

[yamahaSHO]

S-Trim is good for 15-16psi tops, my personal experience anyway. I was thinking of going to a T-trim, but the S-Trim was enough to destroy my cryo'd / new parts / Quaife'd trans. I highly recommend you contact Josh about his super-duper-can't bust-it-up trans internals set.

I was running 419whp on 92/93 (before Ethanol changeover).

Good luck with yours.

I'd say 15 PSI tops on near stock motor. With low compressoin and I'm guessing you have other intake mods, that 15-20 PSI will be pushin A LOT more air than it would on a stock motor.

I'd go with a T-trim, hands down and have some spare transmissions on hand.

 

[40BelowSummer]

Yeah, you could go through more than 20 transmissions (if you can find them) for the price of a gearset. Or you could invest that $6K+ in fabricating a RWD setup.

I have a spare MTX in the trunk along with all tools needed to install. Not really, but i should

 

[TYSHO]

Yeah, you could go through more than 20 transmissions (if you can find them) for the price of a gearset. Or you could invest that $6K+ in fabricating a RWD setup.

I have a spare MTX in the trunk along with all tools needed to install.

Then why not shot peen them and quit worrying so much.

If you don't think shot peening is enough, have it laser peened.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Although both are good ways to prevent a broken tranny, it will eventually still break as the shaft will still flex and stress the outer edges of the gears.

 

[TYSHO]

Although both are good ways to prevent a broken tranny, it will eventually still break as the shaft will still flex and stress the outer edges of the gears.

And those processes increase the amount of stress and fatigue they can take, with the laser far much better.

 

[40BelowSummer]

Then why not shot peen them and quit worrying so much.

Good question.

I believe its been over 35k on new cryoed parts, so maybe ill try that next time.

 

[Toolman]

Cryo did nothing for me. Time to see if this shot-peened trans will fare better. Gonna turn up the boost at the convention so I can finally beat Tony!! (may even have to power shift, *gasp*)

 

[yamahaSHO]

And those processes increase the amount of stress and fatigue they can take, with the laser far much better.

I agree, however, I still believe it will eventually break, just not so quickly. I'm considering shot peening my gears while the motor is out right now....