valve cover

[Gen3]

ok...my sho (89 model) has been running like **** lately...I *think* I've found the problem (oil is leaking out of the valve cover into the hole that the spark plugs go in) I assume that the problem is a gasket that fits around the hole (correct?) now...please tell me that you guys aren't spending $90 on valve cover gaskets? :cry:

[rant] I have never seen a piece of rubber cost so much anyone know of a cheaper brand? the heck's with this car? Transmission mount ($200) clutch kit ($300) Rack and Pinion ($300) geez...everything's so friggin expensive on it[/rant]

 

[MorpheusGPR]

Check RCM for one. You get the valve cover gaskets and plug well seals. The plug well seals is the problem, the upper intake comes off. This is the upper 60k for the most part. I am leaving my shims alone at this time!

Good time to powder coat some stuff if you want!

I have read that powder coating the valve covers can cause some leaking from time to time so I am debating on what to get done, I think those might get painted with engine paint and the upper powder coated.

At any rate you deff need to replace the plug well seals. My rear plugs are submerged in oil, up past the damn post on the plug!

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

Welcome to the forum. Yes the valve cover gaskets are pricey, but not that bad. Rock auto and autozone have the 6 plug well seals and the 2 valve cover seals much cheaper than 90 smackers. But, that is why your car is running badly.

As to powder coating valve covers, no problems if you just coat the outside. Keep it off the ridge and you do just fine.

 

[Gen3]

...now I'm afraid of rod bearings...would that oil leak cause the oil pressure light to come on? make it stall after driving ~6 miles on the interstate and be like nothing's wrong after sitting for ~hour? I have no idea how many miles are on it as the engine was changed before I got it...I don't hear any ticks or anything...


I want to go on and do it anyway (for safty an all) this'll be my first time messing with rod bearings (on anything) have any tips or suggestions? any special tools needed?

 

[Rockledge]

...now I'm afraid of rod bearings...

I want to go on and do it anyway (for safty an all) this'll be my first time messing with rod bearings (on anything) have any tips or suggestions? any special tools needed?

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/rodbearings/rodbearings.htm

http://www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html

 

[jedhead]

If the plug wires have been soaking in oil for any length of time they will be bad. You may want to consider replacing the wires and spark plugs. SHO specific parts are expensive because the car is rare. Supply and demand economics.

Bob

 

[shoteen95]

Check your Codes

It sounds like the car has some issues.

Don't be surprised if you start looking for things around your home to sell off for the car...

 

[RAYJAY]

Check your Codes

It sounds like the car has some issues.

Don't be surprised if you start looking for things around your home to sell off for the car...[/QUOTE]


lmao like you wife the kids the family pets ect.ect

 

[Gen3]

ok...I don't fully understand this, so, I'll put it up and ask that you guys assist...

engine off, I got 2 4

engine running, 1 8 1 3 7 7 1 8 1 3 7 7

 

[Ari Cohen]

Welcome to the club. I just did the valve-cover / spark plug / wires job. Fun job. Easy and, yes expensive. RCM has the best prices on the rubber. Check out their site. Read the step-by-step guide to changing the gaskets at that shophoenix project site listed above. NOTE: you don't have to remove the hood. I didn't and it was still easy.

If you have any questions, email me as I just did this and it's fresh in my mind. Your call will be happy.

ari

 

[Gen3]

ok...I spent the $90 on valve cover gasket + plug well gasket and (oh about 30 minutes ago) it stalled (where it resides now) now...before it stopped,
1: the RPM was erratic, it waved between 1,000-2,000 rpm
2: it had this *really* nasty knock

when I stopped it at a light, it straight up died...and wouldn't start back (the starter ran slow, like it was hard to turn the flywheel...

 

[Gen3]

!!!
now (about 10 minutes ago) it crunk right up like nothing was ever wrong with it...

 

[Ace]

sounds like you got some more issues...id be a little worried about the nasty knock....

 

[ohfosho]

where is you oil level at? if you do get it running again, listen in the engine bay to try to find where the knocking is coming from.

 

[Redline]

This sounds a LOT like a bad CID (camshaft position sensor) to me. When mine went bad my car would start bucking and die when it got hot. Then it would refuse to start and would barely want to turn over, or if it started it would knock and cough and sputter and then die again. If I waited 5-10 minutes it always started back up fine. I would also get a dead tach at times.

 

[Gen3]

plenty of oil, and ever since it started up, it hasn't knocked anymore...

does those codes up there explaine it? (I'll check them again in the morning) would it tell me if my problem if it's the camshaft sensor or the crankshaft sensor? (crankshaft sensor looks like a pain to get to from what I've seen)

 

[Gen3]

ok...retested

were on memory:
61 66

engine running:
73 25

cylinder test: 99

 

[Gen3]

*hugs Redline in a manly way* dude, I love you I changed the cid, and it runs like it's 'sposed to~

 

[gimpysho]

Powder coating valve covers causing leaking

The answer to preventing poweder coated valve covers from leaking is to not have gasket mateing area powercoated.

 

[SHOtimer]

I would still change the rod bearings and do an upper 60k. You will want to use Motorcraft plugs and wires. You can get the rod bearing kit from RCM and the best place for plugs and wires is www.fordpartsnetwork.com

Doug