jedhead
New Member
The SHO Shop has a fix for the cam on their website. What are your thoughts? I like it better than welding or loctite, but I can imagine the cost...
Bob
Bob
V8 Cam Shaft Fix
- Thread starter jedhead
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
jedhead
New Member
R
rockfordsho
Guest
holy jeebus get my 499$ ready!
V6&V8SHO
SHO Member
The theory's sound
rakarb
New Member
From the article it says to yank the cams and send them in. Couldn't a good machinist do the same job on a Bridgeport?
Find the center of the shaft, drill and ream for a dowel and install it?
Find the center of the shaft, drill and ream for a dowel and install it?
SHODWN
Mother Threasa
its as sound as the rest of the crap work that is done there. what happens when the pn works itself loose? opps I did it again
stephen newberg
SHO Member
I am sure that this solution will work, but not sure the others will not. A good welder with a MIG or TIG rig should be able to put 3 equal distance tabs on the cam/sprocket meeting point with no danger of warpage at all. But it will take a good welder, not a hack.
Similarly, I have no idea how Tom thinks cleaning out the joints and then flowing in Locktite or a similar metal bonding agent is going to cause the cams to warp out of true, but frankly the entire concept is outright silly. Though it should generate more business for Tom's shop if people were to believe it.
I do not know if he drops by here, but if he does, an explaination of warping cams with Locktite would be great fun to read. Tom?
pax, smn
<small>[ March 11, 2002, 06:18 AM: Message edited by: stephen newberg ]</small>
Similarly, I have no idea how Tom thinks cleaning out the joints and then flowing in Locktite or a similar metal bonding agent is going to cause the cams to warp out of true, but frankly the entire concept is outright silly. Though it should generate more business for Tom's shop if people were to believe it.
I do not know if he drops by here, but if he does, an explaination of warping cams with Locktite would be great fun to read. Tom?
pax, smn
<small>[ March 11, 2002, 06:18 AM: Message edited by: stephen newberg ]</small>
ES96SHO
SHOtime96
It's obvious that there is no 1 perfect solution to this problem. I too, have to wonder about the pin working it's way loose... And, while I'm no welder, I have to agree that proper preparation and temp control should keep the camshaft from warping...in fact, I'm counting on it as I'm driving around on welded camshafts.
I also agree that $500 is a little steep when considering that you must pull your cams yourself, then ship them to the SHO Shop. Having dealt with the SHO Shop numerous times, I think they do good work, and I think Tom and Vadim are great guys...it's just that they are always too busy to get things done in a timely manner. So, what's the real cost to you when figuring in the following:
1) Time and effort to pull the cams.
2) Shipping Costs
3) $500 charge at SHO Shop
4) Waiting weeks or perhaps months for the job to
be done...
5) Return Shipping costs
6) Re-install of cams
7) Grenaded motor when the pin comes loose...(couldn't resist!)
I'd rather plan a vacation in Atlanta and pay for a $400 welding job...
George
96ES
I also agree that $500 is a little steep when considering that you must pull your cams yourself, then ship them to the SHO Shop. Having dealt with the SHO Shop numerous times, I think they do good work, and I think Tom and Vadim are great guys...it's just that they are always too busy to get things done in a timely manner. So, what's the real cost to you when figuring in the following:
1) Time and effort to pull the cams.
2) Shipping Costs
3) $500 charge at SHO Shop
4) Waiting weeks or perhaps months for the job to
be done...
5) Return Shipping costs
6) Re-install of cams
7) Grenaded motor when the pin comes loose...(couldn't resist!)
I'd rather plan a vacation in Atlanta and pay for a $400 welding job...
George
96ES
fredhurderjr
New Member
Hey, I have a stupid question for you:
How does loctite cause cam warpage (per the SHO Shop news bulletin)? I can understand the danger of excessive heat applied locally causing metal stresses, etc., but loctite?
How does loctite cause cam warpage (per the SHO Shop news bulletin)? I can understand the danger of excessive heat applied locally causing metal stresses, etc., but loctite?
shogirl
New Member
i'm getting a GenIII within the week, and down the road, the cams will be my number 1 concern, but i'm not good with cars, and i wouldn't want to touch anything in the engine area.
i'd rather trailer my car, and drive myself down to Georgia.. $400 + gas + food + maybe lodging.
i'd rather trailer my car, and drive myself down to Georgia.. $400 + gas + food + maybe lodging.
R
rockfordsho
Guest
ahh crap maybe i wont do it kirk brought up some valid points.i want to fix the cam problem before something really bad happens to the motor but im only 19 i cant afford a trip to georgia and miss work.
SCOTTDW
New Member
Well, I still have a warranty for two more
years. Til then and since I am never going to sell this car I will be certain to get the cam weld in 2004. Course by then some other crap will raise it's ugly head....exloding air bags maybe.
Scott
98SF
K&N Panel
Magnaflows 3"tips
BFGoodrich KDWS
BEL 980
years. Til then and since I am never going to sell this car I will be certain to get the cam weld in 2004. Course by then some other crap will raise it's ugly head....exloding air bags maybe.
Scott
98SF
K&N Panel
Magnaflows 3"tips
BFGoodrich KDWS
BEL 980
stephen newberg
SHO Member
Well, this got me thinking about it all again and I decided to actually ask an expert, so I went down to Balcomb Metals yesterday and sat in Harry's office for a bit and then got take out to the shop to be shown some more things. It took a couple of hours, but here is the gist of it.
First, the cam/sproket attachment system used is not at all uncommon, and will likely never cause a problem. The ones that do fail will likely be random failures do to an off angle during the mating or a problem with the expansion pressure applied. With about 50ish failures out of 15,000 in use, Harry advises to stop worrying.
Second, if you are still worried, Locktite is the way to go. He puts metal together with Locktite all the time, and for situations under huge stresses. Works great. He suggests using the breakable version (Red, I think he said, but it might be Blue because we talked about both: regardless, it says on the tube), just in case one day you want to be able to get the sprokets off, but if you think should that happen you are going to replace the cams at the same time anyway, go for the unbreakable version. It is stronger and it really does not break. He says this application is perfect for the way Locktite works so long as the sprocket is nhot already slipping, just wick it in until it will not take more, and be sure to have a catch tray under the application area. Obviously, the joint should be cleaned with a non-residue cleaner first.
Harry has been putting metal together for a living for 40 years, with keeping the internal parts of engines in one chunk as a major line of his work. I would guess he knows exactly what he is talking about. So, if you want to have peace of mind on this, go buy yourself a tube of Locktite, pull over the covers, and glue away. Cheap, effective, and then you can stop worrying.
pax, smn
First, the cam/sproket attachment system used is not at all uncommon, and will likely never cause a problem. The ones that do fail will likely be random failures do to an off angle during the mating or a problem with the expansion pressure applied. With about 50ish failures out of 15,000 in use, Harry advises to stop worrying.
Second, if you are still worried, Locktite is the way to go. He puts metal together with Locktite all the time, and for situations under huge stresses. Works great. He suggests using the breakable version (Red, I think he said, but it might be Blue because we talked about both: regardless, it says on the tube), just in case one day you want to be able to get the sprokets off, but if you think should that happen you are going to replace the cams at the same time anyway, go for the unbreakable version. It is stronger and it really does not break. He says this application is perfect for the way Locktite works so long as the sprocket is nhot already slipping, just wick it in until it will not take more, and be sure to have a catch tray under the application area. Obviously, the joint should be cleaned with a non-residue cleaner first.
Harry has been putting metal together for a living for 40 years, with keeping the internal parts of engines in one chunk as a major line of his work. I would guess he knows exactly what he is talking about. So, if you want to have peace of mind on this, go buy yourself a tube of Locktite, pull over the covers, and glue away. Cheap, effective, and then you can stop worrying.
pax, smn
JCU
SHO Member
If there is a way to solve this possible cam problem on the V8 SHO, I advise everyone to take care of it as promptly as possible. I just read how 50ish out of 15K engines have had this problem. I fit into one of the 50ish. The result was the purchasing of a very low milage engine with a warranty for $3200. Thankfully the person who did the labor cut me a huge break in his price. I just wonder what the bill would have been if Ford did the job. They said that the only way to remove the engine was to drop the undercarriage and pull it out the bottom. Funny, this one went out and in from the top.
It would've cost you about $1700 at a stealership to have the motor swapped... that's how much mine cost in labor.
Usually, they never yank a motor out from the top on these cars. They simply disconnect everything and drop the motor with the subframe and wheels from below; rather, they lift the car off the front end leaving it on the floor.
MPH
JCU
SHO Member
$1700 on top of the price of the engine and any other items or fluids you need? Around here the standard rate of labor per hour is $50. That would equal 34hrs of labor! I'm not sure if the labor/hr is more for an engine swap or whatnot.
Similar threads
