Tweecer

[yzstud]

I was just wondering if my atx-mtx swapped car could get properly tuned by tweecer. The optimum tuning level that my car could achieve would not be the only reason for me getting the tweecer. I would also like to erase the 5 egr codes I am getting due to the fact that i no longer have an egr system from the swap. The car has the D4U1 comp which is compatiable with the tweecer, but is there an option within the tweecer program to tell my computer not to read any egr signals? I feel that with the cel constantly on, the car isn't getting the best performance that it is capable of because the computer has put the car in "limp" mode.
Can i really tell my computer that it doesn't have an egr with the tweecer?
Any input on this?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

I was just wondering if my atx-mtx swapped car could get properly tuned by tweecer. The optimum tuning level that my car could achieve would not be the only reason for me getting the tweecer. I would also like to erase the 5 egr codes I am getting due to the fact that i no longer have an egr system from the swap. The car has the D4U1 comp which is compatiable with the tweecer, but is there an option within the tweecer program to tell my computer not to read any egr signals? I feel that with the cel constantly on, the car isn't getting the best performance that it is capable of because the computer has put the car in "limp" mode.
Can i really tell my computer that it doesn't have an egr with the tweecer?
Any input on this?

You can set the EGR type switch scalar to 2 to disable EGR, but I'm not sure if that eliminates all the EGR codes as I've not tried it with TwEECer. I'm not sure why people go through all the extra work to use a D4U1 with their ATX->MTX setups, it's 10000 times easier to use the MTX wiring and an X2J computer...

I feel that with the cel constantly on, the car isn't getting the best performance that it is capable of because the computer has put the car in "limp" mode.

You are mistaken. All the PCM does is ignore EGR flow from the fuel/spark calculations. Also realize that the fuel and spark tables, MAF xfer, and a whole bunch of other things are different between the X2J and D4U1 calibrations.

 

[yzstud]

You can set the EGR type switch scalar to 2 to disable EGR, but I'm not sure if that eliminates all the EGR codes as I've not tried it with TwEECer. I'm not sure why people go through all the extra work to use a D4U1 with their ATX->MTX setups, it's 10000 times easier to use the MTX wiring and an X2J computer...


You are mistaken. All the PCM does is ignore EGR flow from the fuel/spark calculations. Also realize that the fuel and spark tables, MAF xfer, and a whole bunch of other things are different between the X2J and D4U1 calibrations.

I read somewhere that i couldn't use my x2j and harness due to the differences in the wiring.
Are the only differences the 02's, and the location of the oil level sensor?
I wish i would have gone that route but I can't exactly go that route right now, my backup car is having the tranny rebuilt.
Also the wiring seemed like a Bit** to where it met with the interior wiring by the air cleaner. Unless someone has that whole thing figured out on how to wire it up...........

 

[hawkeye18]

My ATX will still throw codes, even with the tweecer set to "2", if I unplug the DPFR or whatever it is... the electrical connector, that is. It will also set the CEL. It's annoying, but I just leave the DPFR hooked up, and no other problems present themselves.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

I read somewhere that i couldn't use my x2j and harness due to the differences in the wiring.
Are the only differences the 02's, and the location of the oil level sensor?
I wish i would have gone that route but I can't exactly go that route right now, my backup car is having the tranny rebuilt.
Also the wiring seemed like a Bit** to where it met with the interior wiring by the air cleaner. Unless someone has that whole thing figured out on how to wire it up...........

Too bad there is so much mis-information out there.

Jose has a diagram for all the wiring changes he'll send to anyone who asks. Takes all of about an hour to get it done. Makes it very simple to work on and troubleshoot the car as if it was a factory MTX instead of a one-off freak.

My ATX will still throw codes, even with the tweecer set to "2", if I unplug the DPFR or whatever it is... the electrical connector, that is. It will also set the CEL. It's annoying, but I just leave the DPFR hooked up, and no other problems present themselves.

That doesn't surprise me, getting EGR codes to completely go away is problematic on every Ford EEC-IV PCM on which I've tried, regardless of the tuning software. There are obviously additional switches that were never reverse-engineered to accomplish it properly.

Usually it results in either trying to trick the PCM or just leaving some components connected as you have to keep the codes at bay.

Disabling downstream O2 sensors on an OBD-II car is similar in that you can shut off the function of the O2's, but if you forget to shut of the heaters you'll still get codes.

 

[Phoenix]

You are having the same issues as I did.

1- Tweecer RT plus D4U1 , you cannot "delete" the EGR systems to turn off the CEL. Either you remove the light , or live with it.

2- If you swap ECU with a X2J/L0S/B9B1 , you will need to swap its harness , plus the CCRM (with its harness) , plus the O2s (3 wires,4 wires) , Plus do a complete re-wirering of the connector C100 and C101 (the connector that mates the exterior harnesses with the interior) This is not an easy job. Count alot of hours. and will look like this.

 

[yzstud]

^ that above post was the reason i didn't go that route, all i had to do is solder 4 wires to the mlp for the clutch interlock and the reverse lamps, and swap out my 3 pinned alternator connector for the 2 pinned one. That route seems much easier then having to do the above picture...........
but, phoenix..............sigh, if you could possibly post up something that will help me figure out what it is that i would have to do, then i would be willing to tackle that..............
since you did that wiring, did you do that to the inside dash harness to so you could actually have the wiring for the idle adjustment at the clutch pedal?

 

[HotRodKid]

if your going to tune a d4u1 w/ the tweecer, i would suggest also picking up a dataq unit so you can actualy read maf voltage.

otherwise, enjoy tuning blind, as the MAF graph is where you make alot of adjustments, and w/o a dataq youll never ba able to say "well, looks like i have to remove some fuel @ X volts on the graph"

 

[Phoenix]

^ that above post was the reason i didn't go that route, all i had to do is solder 4 wires to the mlp for the clutch interlock and the reverse lamps, and swap out my 3 pinned alternator connector for the 2 pinned one. That route seems much easier then having to do the above picture...........
but, phoenix..............sigh, if you could possibly post up something that will help me figure out what it is that i would have to do, then i would be willing to tackle that..............
since you did that wiring, did you do that to the inside dash harness to so you could actually have the wiring for the idle adjustment at the clutch pedal?

Nah I didnt re-wire both switches at the clutch (one for starting one for "suposibly" the idle) I checked the wirering and it looks like its for the cruise control (if you hit the clutch , the RPM would rocket sky high) , and since my cruise is deleted....

All the rewirering I did was at that C100 C101 connectors , thoses are the ones that connect the interior (dash-ignition-temps-cruise-lights....) to the engine harness. MOST of the wires color match , but for me the PITA was the DRL (canadian model) the wires didnt match at all. I bought both years of EVTM (92 harness and 94 the car) and highlighted ALL c100 c101 connectors in the diagram , and compared with the other if it was the same wires , same colors. Like I said its a pain , but it paid off for me.

I had numerous issues (idle , tweecerRT datalogging issues etc) so it was worth it for me.