Ok, my rear turbo took a shit... so my options are replace with stock turbos or look at the aftermarket route. My question is, are their any aftermarket turbos that don't really require much more other than maybe a modified tune and downpipes that wouldn't cost me any more than having the dealership replace my turbos?
Turbos
- Thread starter smokin5s
- Start date
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bpd1151
Lurking Around
I think advertised price on ATP's site is/was like $2,300 (for the pair) iirc.
There are vendors who have more competitive price points.
Hopefully that at least provides you a ball park.
Idk what Ford's charging for a new stock turbo
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There are vendors who have more competitive price points.
Hopefully that at least provides you a ball park.
Idk what Ford's charging for a new stock turbo
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bpd1151
Lurking Around
If that was for stock turbos, then it's a no brainer. Go aftermarket.
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Shouldn't be more than $800 plus tax for BOTH stock turbos. They have really come down in pricing. Local dealer/shop might be willing to match.
https://secure.revolutionparts.com/...e/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat
TURBOCHARGER - FORD TAURUS (AA5Z6K682E) #1
TURBOCHARGER - FORD TAURUS (AA5Z6K682F) #2
https://secure.revolutionparts.com/...e/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat
TURBOCHARGER - FORD TAURUS (AA5Z6K682E) #1
TURBOCHARGER - FORD TAURUS (AA5Z6K682F) #2
Not sure if anyone cares or not but I just ordered new right side turbo from Ford and it's going to take a week because they updated the part and the new P/N isn't released yet (as of Thursday). The new right side part number is AA5Z6K682G
So do I just have to order the turbos or do I have to get other components at the same time?Shouldn't be more than $800 plus tax for BOTH stock turbos. They have really come down in pricing. Local dealer/shop might be willing to match.
https://secure.revolutionparts.com/...e/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat
TURBOCHARGER - FORD TAURUS (AA5Z6K682E) #1
TURBOCHARGER - FORD TAURUS (AA5Z6K682F) #2
bpd1151
Lurking Around
Ford routinely changes out part numbers, with each successive model year.
Most notably the last letter.
That change alone, shouldn't necessarily be equated with any substantive revision in the part(s) themselves.
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Most notably the last letter.
That change alone, shouldn't necessarily be equated with any substantive revision in the part(s) themselves.
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I don't know what changes they made to them. I was simply putting it out there so you would know the latest part number that was just released. They started at A and are now at G. I couldn't tell you the differences between each change as I've never looked into it. Obviously there's some change between each part number change; substantial or insignificant, I do not know.
bpd1151
Lurking Around
Often times there aren't any physical changes to them. Just FYI.
Ford updates the p/n's simply as a means of reference when they're calling out part #'s.
That's truly the primary reason for it.
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Ford updates the p/n's simply as a means of reference when they're calling out part #'s.
That's truly the primary reason for it.
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I would seriously doubt they update the P/N's without making any change. There is a significant logistics cost with something as simple as just changing part numbers. In an industry as competitive and profit driven as the auto industry I highly doubt they do something that will cost them a decent amount of money just to change the P/N. There's going to be some change to them to justify the cost of the additional logistics of changing the P/N.
I've worked as an engineer for Harman making speakers for various auto manufacturers. Never once did a manufacturer change the P/N of our parts without some change to the product. Sometimes something as little as a new staking design/tool for the back plate on a speaker (this is a very small and insignificant change) would result in a P/N change. It's not to say the newer model is better but it's usually to mark where the change was made so it's easy to track if an issue arises.
P/N's change and a lot of time there's no noticeable difference to the consumer. But I have a hard time believing they incur the logistics cost of updating just to change numbers.
bpd1151
Lurking Around
Not gonna keep playing ping pong with you.
You're nitpicking my words. I said "primarily". I never discounted the fact that there aren't changes. Just stated often times there are not.
It's cool. Moving along..... (and PM me with the answer if you'd like, so as not to muck up the OP's thread)....
I absolutely loved HK products. Bought a lot of their items in the past. Very cool to hear you used to work for them. My question is, whatever happened to HK? I think they got bought by Infinity or JBL?
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You're nitpicking my words. I said "primarily". I never discounted the fact that there aren't changes. Just stated often times there are not.
It's cool. Moving along..... (and PM me with the answer if you'd like, so as not to muck up the OP's thread)....
I absolutely loved HK products. Bought a lot of their items in the past. Very cool to hear you used to work for them. My question is, whatever happened to HK? I think they got bought by Infinity or JBL?
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I had put up the pricing so you know what to expect to pay when the shop does the work, and you can bargain them down if their price is higher.
If you are buying the turbos yourself, then it would be a good idea IMHO to also get and replace the gaskets and oil feed lines at the same time. We have seen enough oil feed line related leaks (technically also a gasket issue) over the years.
AA5Z-9450-C TURBOCHARGER GASKET, RIGHT
AA5Z-9448-A TURBOCHARGER GASKET, LEFT
AA5Z-9T515-F LOWER PIPE, RIGHT
AA5Z-9T515-C LOWER PIPE, LEFT
AA5Z-6N652-A LOWER PIPE GASKET, RIGHT
AA5Z-6N652-A LOWER PIPE GASKET, LEFT
AA5Z-00815-B LOWER PIPE O-RING, RIGHT
AA5Z-00815-B LOWER PIPE O-RING, LEFT
W500012-S437 LOWER PIPE BOLT, LEFT
W500012-S437 LOWER PIPE BOLT, RIGHT
I was thinking about trying to go with an upgraded turbo and Off Road down pipes since the DP's will have to be removed in order to replace the turbos so I'm hoping to at least not have to pay labor for the DP upgrade (trying to make lemonade out of the lemons I'm being thrown here) I saw Eco Power Performance 1600 dollar turbos with 800 dollar core fee... does anyone have any experience with them... they said they have an upgraded vein design and a higher PSI wastegate... what does that really mean for me? Does it mean increased reliability as well as better power or is it not worth the additional cost?
Orguss
SHO Member
Ford quoted me $600 per turbo, with a $1600 labor fee. They stated that the engine block needed to be pulled from the car in order to install the turbos.
bpd1151
Lurking Around
They are quoting you book time & procedure(s).
It is not necessary at all, to drop the entire motor.
Front turbo is easily accessible w/o doing anything, other than just raising the car & getting under it.
The rear turbo's a lil more tricky. However, just dropping the rear portion of the subframe, will permit the room necessary to get to it, to R&R it.
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It is not necessary at all, to drop the entire motor.
Front turbo is easily accessible w/o doing anything, other than just raising the car & getting under it.
The rear turbo's a lil more tricky. However, just dropping the rear portion of the subframe, will permit the room necessary to get to it, to R&R it.
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+1 to this guy. I wouldn't think they are even quoting you book time either. When I talked to my Ford the time is 6 hours for the rear and 2.5 for the front. Unless your labor rate is almost $170/hour their labor is high. When talking to my local Ford they charge anywhere from $80-$121/hour. Not sure what determined the rate, that's just what they said.
I personally would go in and talk to them about the quote. Nicely have them walk you through everything and show you the procedure/steps on the computer. I ended up replacing my rear turbo myself but I walked through all that info with my local Ford before making the decision (they quoted me $1400 to replace the rear turbo).
If you do it yourself and drop the back half of the subframe I recommend just dropping the whole thing. Most of the connections are on the back half. Dropping the front only requires removal of about 3 additional bolts. Having it out of the way will give you that much more room when removing all the other parts.
*EDIT* I cannot speak to the front turbo as I have not replaced it (but from looking at it I assume it's easy). Replacing the rear turbo doesn't require pulling the engine. The closest thing to pulling the engine is removing the bolt for the anti-rotation engine mounts to drop the subframe. Beyond that the closest you come to the block is the turbo mounting brackets that are bolted to the block.
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Orguss
SHO Member
You're almost dead on with the labor rate. They quoted me $180/hr.
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