Turbo project progress pics(rough).

[nik97]

I've been collecting parts, researching and working on my turbo '90 project for about a month now and finally I have something to post. I had most of the IC mock-up done but found a leak in the Audi 5000 IC I was planning to use so I had to ditch that and start over. All of the exhaust piping is welded up and fitted and the turbo is mounted.

Some specs...

-Garrett/International turbo from IDI Ford F250(t3/t4 .82 a/r exh. .70 a/r int.)
-Modified wastegate from 90's Lebaron turbo(6-7 psi).
-2" primary from manifolds to 2.25" up to turbo.
-2.75" reduced to 2.25" downpipe(clearance).
-Toyota 2-bolt exhaust flanges(both female) with thick Toyota gaskets.

Pics...

I'm not the best welder... I know I've purchase another IC and some more silicone/clamps/tubing.
I will run an FMU w/ wideband to feel out the "kit" then I will get some injectors and a tune.

 

[Sho Amo]

wowo dude thats like toolmans kit improved. i never thought of that way to do away with that scary downpipe behind trans idea.

good work dude that looks top notch.

im waiting for my favorite pics tho.......intercooler mounted in bumper


oh and fmu? duct tape? i thought you were from az not wv? j/k

 

[ManySHOs]

Very cool!



Ian

 

[excidere]

I dig the way that down-pipe is routed... it doesn't look like it affects ground clearance to much either.. I bet rod bearings are PITA now ...

Oh yeah and get rid of the cable shifter.... J/K looks awesome man!

 

[NJSHO]

Is your power steering cooler mounted near your intermediate axle, above your exhaust pipe?

 

[VADERSHO]

I love the duct tape totally custom look. looks good. But please fix the thread title!

 

[Sho Amo]

if you look in pics 2 and 3 he mounted it right under the rack....
i woulda just removed it all together

 

[nik97]

Tourbo! LOL. Fixed the thread title. Please excuse the duct tape, it's holding that pipe there so I can begin the IC mock-up and MAF/filter location. The PS cooler is just in a temporary state of out-of-the-way-ness. The FMU will be temporary at best. I need something to make the car drivable from place to place(work-home) and keep it safe for 6 lbs. of boost. I will get the X2J/injectors/chip soon enough but I can't just leave my car at work or at home in a non-drivable state. I will try and take some pics of the pipes out of the car later.

Thanks for the compliments guys!

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

just cant make it fast enough can ya? nice job nik. pretty soon tom wont have the fastest sho vehicle in az.

as it stands, if we raced TODAY...i think I HAVE THE FASTEST

 

[nik97]

More pics...

I took some more pics of the setup out of the vehicle to give a better idea of how the pipes run...














Just got my oil lines and pan tapped. Thanks Tom!

 

[Power Surge]

I really think you're going to have a problem with that tiny downpipe. You might want to put an EGT gauge on that setup and watch the temps. You're basically feeding the turbo with two pipes and then venting it with one pipe of the same diameter.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Nice setup! I certainly would have installed more flanges though, to make dropping the pan possible without having to remove such a complicated pipe.

A little tip for the welding though....

Should I assume you are using a wirefeed?

If you are, either back the wirespeed off a bit, or up the amperes. Slow it down, and let it penetrate more. That will 'flatten' the welds, and clean it up a bit. You are not doing too bad with exhaust tubing, it is a bit tough to work with.

 

[NCTaurusSHO]

looks good. you will have a blast driving it. but don't keep the FMU too long. Have you seen my vids of my supercharged one (on streetfire) and it just pours black smoke out when you punch it because it dumps fuel. Also, put the EGT gauge right in front of the exhaust port of the cylinder head on the exhaust manifold.

 

[nik97]

Power Surge, Yes the setup is not "optimal" but it will work. I knew this wasn't going to be a perfect setup to begin with and I had to try something new. Besides, the DP is only 2.25" for about 3.5' from a 2.75" reduction. After the ******, it will be 2.75" again. If it ends up having flow issues, I suppose I would start there though.

Kenny, thanks, it's actually not nearly as bad as it may look to remove the entire setup. The DP is certainly the easiest to remove while the Y is just a bit tricky to angle out. Hopefully, I'll only be dropping the pan once more -to install the new tapped pan since the rod bearings have recently been done. Yeah, I'll admit, my welding is not the greatest. I seem to have trouble finding the right speed/heat combo. This is by far the most I've welded on my own but I wanted to do as much of this project on my own as I could.

 

[nik97]

looks good. you will have a blast driving it. but don't keep the FMU too long. Have you seen my vids of my supercharged one (on streetfire) and it just pours black smoke out when you punch it because it dumps fuel. Also, put the EGT gauge right in front of the exhaust port of the cylinder head on the exhaust manifold.

Do you remember the calibration ratio of your FMU? I have 12:1 and 6:1 to toy with until I find the right ratio(recalibration kits are cheap). These will also give me an idea of what fuel pressure will be optimal and if my 155 is up to the task.
Basically, it's put in use to sort out any other issues with the setup until I have it properly tuned w/ FRPP 42#/X2J/SCT.

I never really thought about installing an EGT. I suppose it would be wise to monitor load for dangerous levels. I can see why you would want it as close as possible to an exhaust port for an actual indication -good call

 

[NCTaurusSHO]

Do you remember the calibration ratio of your FMU? I have 12:1 and 6:1 to toy with until I find the right ratio(recalibration kits are cheap). These will also give me an idea of what fuel pressure will be optimal and if my 155 is up to the task.
Basically, it's put in use to sort out any other issues with the setup until I have it properly tuned w/ FRPP 42#/X2J/SCT.

I never really thought about installing an EGT. I suppose it would be wise to monitor load for dangerous levels. I can see why you would want it as close as possible to an exhaust port for an actual indication -good call

yeah mine was a 12:1 but it only worked for 5-6 lbs of boost. you will see detonation and broken pistons if you go more than that..even with a 155lph you WILL run out of gas. You need to get the EGT gauge right away and install that first especially so you can see how much it will rise using the FMU as a fuel support. I would even recommend (if you are going buget wise) to get a bigger fuel pump and a SAFC controller from APEXI (if you don't want to get the tweecer route. We have both ones on each turbo sho and they work the same. I (Ashley) did all the tuning on the SAFC just busting down the highway, and tuned using the EGT gauge.and it put down 400hp and 391 tq. but that was 10lbs of boost. Good luck.

ashley

 

[shovermont]

i like the fact that you are turboing a gen 1. im jealous not gonna lie. looks sick. and please do us all a favor when you get it up and running and post some videos on youtube so we can all drool and you will have lots of envious taurus fans. keep up the damn fine job.

 

[nik97]

i like the fact that you are turboing a gen 1. im jealous not gonna lie. looks sick. and please do us all a favor when you get it up and running and post some videos on youtube so we can all drool and you will have lots of envious taurus fans. keep up the damn fine job.

Thanks man:sun:. I certainly will keep updating with pics and vids.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Nick,

Nice work there bud. If you need a bung welded in for the EGT sensor, let me know and I will weld one in for you. Welding on the cast iron manifolds will be more difficult but can be done.

The EG temp drops about 200 degrees between the exhaust manifold bolts and the O2 sensor location when under high load so you can weld in the sensor near the O2 (in regular steel) and just keep the temp drop in mind.

Tom

 

[NCTaurusSHO]

but wouldn't you want to know right away what the temp is at the cylinder? I mean that is the point of meltdown. when you are boosting around you don't want to have to figure a 200 degree difference every time you look at your gauge. If you were able to weld your pipes yourself...you won't have a problem welding the cast. it isn't that hard. but we have a manifold with a bung already welded in if you want it.