Turbo leak!

[14SHOWP]

Hey guys. Newer here to the forums, signed up a while ago but never really had any threads or input on stuff. I have a 2014 SHO non PP, just did my oil change the other day and noticed my rear turbo puking oil 14K miles on the car, I was doing oil changes every 3k with synthetic blend, switched to full synthetic at 9K. Sucks that I will have to change the turbo at such low mileage. Anyone out there have turbo leakeage yet?

 

[r1crusher]

I'm in a similar situation with my '13 although I failed to hook back up my vented BOVs when I took it in to have it looked at (rear turbo as well). The dealership simply noted they were disconnected (and which would void my warranty) and tried to tell me that's where my oil leak was coming from. Next oil change I'm going to degrease the area well and check it again to verify where it's coming from. I personally don't believe that the PCV is allowing that much oil back into the intake side but I could be wrong. I've read a number of posts about earlier year cars with front turbo leaks but very few with rear after '12.

Good luck getting it sorted out.

 

[BamSHO]

Might be the oil feed line has bad O ring, or the seals are going bad. No matter what car has to back to the dealer. You should still be under the 3/36. As for the BOV causing oil on the rear turbo is BS. I've had mine off since March this year, haven't noticed any oil front or back. I would clean up the area, hook the BOV tubes and then take it back.

 

[SHOdded]

Listen to the man ^ Judging from one of your previous posts, this has been happening for some time. A quart per 2000+ isn't the best of circumstances.

 

[jmagsho]

My '12 did the same thing around 22k. Dealer claimed that the seals were leaking on the turbo itself and replaced it under warranty. I'm at 32k now and I noticed it's leaking again. At this point I'm wondering if it's the o ring on the oil line, and I'm debating whether or not to fix it myself since the dealer techs in my area are severely lacking in the diagnosis department. As a former tech in a private shop I am appalled at what the dealers pass of as quality service.

 

[SHOdded]

Try a Lincoln dealership instead, as rubydist pointed out, they are much more acquainted with EB engines.

 

[SHOnUup4]

This was my leak. Front turbo cold side. You could see the oil sludge built up on it. Had to inspect from underneath car and didn't notice the tear until I actually pushed on it. Looked fine, besides the build up, until I pushed on it.

Rich

 

[UrsaMajor]

This was my leak. Front turbo cold side. You could see the oil sludge built up on it. Had to inspect from underneath car and didn't notice the tear until I actually pushed on it. Looked fine, besides the build up, until I pushed on it.

Rich

Rich, I'm having the same issue on my 2010. Just finished inspecting it. It looks like a bitch to remove the hose...is it as bad as it looks? Was the replacement readily available or did they have to order? Thanks!

 

[SHOnUup4]

Rich, I'm having the same issue on my 2010. Just finished inspecting it. It looks like a bitch to remove the hose...is it as bad as it looks? Was the replacement readily available or did they have to order? Thanks!

The replacement had to be ordered...they got it next day.

It's actually pretty easy to do. Remove CAI and from underneath you remove piping (hose) from CAC to the turbo. From there is just a few hose clamps to remove it, it comes apart and separates from the rear turbo section making it easy.

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[SHOnUup4]

I see you said rear turbo...that one looks a bit tougher for sure

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[UrsaMajor]

The replacement had to be ordered...they got it next day.

It's actually pretty easy to do. Remove CAI and from underneath you remove piping (hose) from CAC to the turbo. From there is just a few hose clamps to remove it, it comes apart and separates from the rear turbo section making it easy.

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Thanks Rich! It is the front turbo and I removed the tube without too much trouble. The problem I have on mine is the plastic collar that holds the short, rubber tube to the plastic tube is broken/fried. It just looks like the plastic burnt in a way. Do you think I need to have the whole tube assembly replaced? I can't find a part number on the main tube anywhere. Thanks for your help again.

 

[SHOnUup4]

Pretty sure your part # is the one in orange in top left corner. It was right around $185 and is covered by the drive train warranty if you are under 60k. I didn't want to wait a week for the appointment, so I just bought it. Good luck.

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[SHOnUup4]

I put the old front pipe with the new rear pipe and took pic for ya

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[UrsaMajor]

You rock, Rich! I found a different part # on the www.oemfordpart.com if it will help anyone in the future. It is AA5Z-9R530-C and of course they will force me to buy both tube assemblies as you show in your pic above. But still, for less than $200.

 

[SHOdded]

That pipe walk out the door on ya, Rich? Looked like it was making a run for it!

 

[SHOnUup4]

That pipe walk out the door on ya, Rich? Looked like it was making a run for it!

All these SHO parts seem fast...lol

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